Made a good hone great

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Nov 1, 2011
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I was looking at a place that likes straight razors, and all I kept reading was how the spyderco UF stone was good but when lapped it was great so curiosity got the best of me and I went to work. The stone was flat I did this to get a higher grit on one side. So I grab a 20 dollar diamond bench stone rated at 750 grit and go to work under the sink, my first thought was dang these spydercos are hard, put I'm a hard headed person so on I went. About 30 minutes later I inspect the hone and its shiney and noticeable smoother but I can do better so i grab some 400 grit sandpaper and went to work. After wearing out the 400 grit paper I went back to the diamond and scrubbed for about another half hour and man this thing is awesome now. It feels as smooth as a toilet but still cuts, and the level of sharpness and polish I can now get is something I've never seen before. I did ruin my diamond in the process but overall it was worth it.....
 
A lapped UF ceramic is truly a amazing polisher :thumbup:

Now let's see some sharpened steel!
 
I will post pics when I get another camera all I have now is a cell camera and it doesn't do the edge justice I finished with unlapped side of uf then lapped UF then chromium oxide on leather and man its so shiny but it bites as well its a weird edge.
 
For how to I'll let knife nut answer if he wants I don't want to give bad advice and u ruin your hone I ruined my diamond , or it may still cut but it barely cuts glass which tells me I lost a lot of diamond in the process.
 
Ok. I was just going to buy a cheap diamond stone to do it with. So it wouldn't matter anyways
 
Cool cool, a lot of people use 325 DMT but I wudnt waste a DMT on it. I did mine with a smith diamond benchstone and wet dry sandpaper, also do it under running water and i used medium pressure. I read a lot about it some say you can over do it and ruin the hone making it not cut anymore , others said too low grit of a diamond would roughen up the ceramic instead of smoothing it and I dunno if there's any facts to support you killing the ceramic or using too agressive of a diamond. Just be aware its an undertaking those ceramics are hard , but if you see it through its awesome. My UF when loaded before you could see saw marks in it. I scrubbed until the saw marks were gone and the surface literally feels like a bathtub or toilet. Its definitely only a finisher now. But hey that's why I only did one side. I also have the 2x8 version UF.
 
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A fine diamond such as 600 or higher is needed to make the stone cut finer. If you go coarser its has no effect. And as a reminder it will ruin the diamond hone.
 
So a little update, after getting the results I did on my caly 3.5 with this hone, I found another diamond hone I never use, the little smiths double sided diamond hone with a coarse side (rated at 325) and a fine side (rated at 750 grit) and having wore down my smiths diamond benchstone in 750 grit , I decided to give this diamond a try, So off with the coarse I went, I scrubbed using the diamond hone horizontal and the spyderco UF vertical to me, I used my Edge pro water bottle I have which is just water and a little bit of dish soap, The reason I went back to lap some more is I put the hone up to the light and saw that the scratches weren't uniform, so I went to work, I left the Uf in it's black plastic container to make sure it was having an effect, I saturated the UF and started scrubbing, and the black plastic container filled up with white water, so I knew it was doing something, since this was the lowest grit I've tried I didn't want to over do it , so I did maybe 75-100 passes, afterwards I rinsed the Spyderco off, and put it eye level to light (like murray carter checks his waterstones), and saw a uniform scratch pattern on the hone, after that I flipped the diamond hone over to the 750 grit, and did another 100 strokes, and WOW. It was smooth as porcelain before, and it was shiny , however now It just glistens in the light , after a thorough rinse down of the hone , it does feel like there are some diamonds in the ceramic , but I read this also , and that the true grit of the stone won't come out for a few sharpenings as there may be diamonds, or what ever you use to lap the stone in the ceramic, so I grabbed some old knives and started honing, at first I could feel a bump or two in the ceramic so I worked those areas of the ceramic the most. (I wasn't really sharpening, the knives I grabbed were junk It was more of a test of the hone and to dislodge any debris in the hone). So after doing this and "working the stone" with a buck 110 , to my amazement the bevel is beginning to show a mirror polish, granted I was using A LOT of pressure, but I thought Oh No! I've ruined my hone, so I play with the 110 for about 20 more minutes and the edge is incredible! Again though I'm thinking I went backward as before it was cutting slow now it's cutting super super fast, So I gave the UF a good scrub with some bar keepers friend after the buck and some other knives and the debris feels gone , and that super slick surface is back, So I go back to the caly 3.5 and using super light "western strokes" only I gave the knife I don't know how many strokes but zdp-189 is super hard , well the results were the knife was even sharper! I did the same method both times and with a really hard steel you can feel the stone (sounds weird I know) but the stone felt a lot smoother and after some passes I didn't even bother with a strop I wanted to see just what the hone could do, 3 finger test felt really really sticky , so I grab a paper towel, and sliced it! It did have a few spots that needed to be stropped and they hung up on the paper towel, but a slice none the less, So I did maybe 5-10 passes on Chromium oxide(green compound on leather), and tried it again and grabbed another paper towel, and it sliced it no snags.

Overall I am very happy with the end result and I'm done , I don't want to over do it ,(nor will I ever lap a spyderco again It made me question which was harder diamonds or ceramics ..lol), anyway I did ruin my cheap diamonds, but I have other coarse stones so it was a sacrifice I was willing to make. A little note though, according to other info I have read, If you lap your Spyderco you void the warranty, as they are guaranteed to be flat to a certain measurement. If you are going to do this read up on it first , I read for about a week straight before I tried, and be prepared for a big undertaking, these stones are super super hard , and you will ruin your diamond, If i had the bigger Uf stone I would have my reservations about lapping it as the 2x8 is the same size as the smaller wet dry pieces of sandpaper, as well as the diamond hones. The bigger one would require more skill and or a bigger more expensive diamond to ensure you get the whole stone the same grit. However If you want to take your UF stone to the next level and are willing to sacrifice a diamond stone or 2 and take the risk of by voiding the warranty on your UF if you mess it up , the results are amazing, I really can't speak high enough of it. Just a few cautions though, Lap the stones under running water if possible, If not use lots and lots of water, you don't want to do this dry , ceramic dust is nasty and the water will prevent the dust, as well as providing a lube so that the diamonds don't get ripped out of your hone as quick. I suggest also that before you attempt this run your diamond over some old glass and see the scratch pattern it makes, and after you begin lapping check it on the glass again to see if the diamonds are being dislodged. Be careful and be prepared to put forth a lot of effort in this , but again if you see it through you will have a hone that is great, I have read some water stone gurus rate the stone after lapping in the 10's of thousands of grits ( dunno how true that is), put I do know I will never ever get rid of this stone.
 
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I was looking at a place that likes straight razors, and all I kept reading was how the spyderco UF stone was good but when lapped it was great so curiosity got the best of me and I went to work. The stone was flat I did this to get a higher grit on one side. So I grab a 20 dollar diamond bench stone rated at 750 grit and go to work under the sink, my first thought was dang these spydercos are hard, put I'm a hard headed person so on I went. About 30 minutes later I inspect the hone and its shiney and noticeable smoother but I can do better so i grab some 400 grit sandpaper and went to work. After wearing out the 400 grit paper I went back to the diamond and scrubbed for about another half hour and man this thing is awesome now. It feels as smooth as a toilet but still cuts, and the level of sharpness and polish I can now get is something I've never seen before. I did ruin my diamond in the process but overall it was worth it.....

That sounds kinda familiar... :D

I went through more or less the same thing, when lapping a Spyderco DoubleStuff hone. Even with that small hone, it took a LOOOONNNNG while to get it done. I used a DMT Duo-Sharp bench hone (coarse side of the C/F combo) to do mine. As you found, this makes a great polishing hone out of the Spyderco. I previously attempted the job with wet/dry sandpaper, and realized it just felt like I was rubbing two pieces of smooth glass together. Didn't faze the ceramic, and I couldn't seem to generate any swarf from either the paper or the ceramic. Didn't take long to jump straight to the diamond hone, after that. ;)

I'd also done the same with two of my Lansky ceramic hones, using a C/F Dia-Fold. It did visibly remove a lot of diamond from that hone (both sides), but even the Dia-Fold still has enough teeth to still work pretty well, at effectively a finer grit, I'm sure.


David
 
That sounds kinda familiar... :D

I went through more or less the same thing, when lapping a Spyderco DoubleStuff hone. Even with that small hone, it took a LOOOONNNNG while to get it done. I used a DMT Duo-Sharp bench hone (coarse side of the C/F combo) to do mine. As you found, this makes a great polishing hone out of the Spyderco. I previously attempted the job with wet/dry sandpaper, and realized it just felt like I was rubbing two pieces of smooth glass together. Didn't faze the ceramic, and I couldn't seem to generate any swarf from either the paper or the ceramic. Didn't take long to jump straight to the diamond hone, after that. ;)

I'd also done the same with two of my Lansky ceramic hones, using a C/F Dia-Fold. It did visibly remove a lot of diamond from that hone (both sides), but even the Dia-Fold still has enough teeth to still work pretty well, at effectively a finer grit, I'm sure.


David

Yea DMT's are in a league of their own (so I've heard at least) I am trying to get away from the edge pro and only do freehand now, and I cant make up my mind If I want to go full DMT's or waterstones, I do however have my finishing stone now:D I think for my steels that I own and prefer, diamonds are going to be my best bet, It's much more gratifying to achieve a level of sharpness and mirror polish done free handed than done on a jig, to me it's just as addictive as knives...Also when I'm stressed I'll grab what stones I have and just sharpen , It's very soothing to me , I get in this zone (sounds weird I know) but It's like all I'm focused on is the knife on the stone who needs a therapist when you can sharpen knives lol
 
Yea DMT's are in a league of their own (so I've heard at least) I am trying to get away from the edge pro and only do freehand now, and I cant make up my mind If I want to go full DMT's or waterstones, I do however have my finishing stone now:D I think for my steels that I own and prefer, diamonds are going to be my best bet, It's much more gratifying to achieve a level of sharpness and mirror polish done free handed than done on a jig, to me it's just as addictive as knives...Also when I'm stressed I'll grab what stones I have and just sharpen , It's very soothing to me , I get in this zone (sounds weird I know) but It's like all I'm focused on is the knife on the stone who needs a therapist when you can sharpen knives lol

I do the same thing. Sometimes almost without thinking about it, if something else is bugging me, I'll grab the nearest blade and 'the gear' and go to it. It is very therapeutic, to me. Seems to help me focus, when I need to. :)

That Dia-Fold that I'd almost ruined (so I thought) almost got thrown away. I'd looked at it and seen the 'bare' spots (again, so I thought) on the nickel, and just decided to toss it in a storage box, and forgot about it for a couple years. Finally came across it again when rummaging through the box's contents, and gave it a few passes on a knife from my pocket. Worked like charm; left a very clean & refined scratch pattern as well. Sort of looked like an 'extreme break-in' for the hone, and it really impressed me.


David
 
I do the same thing. Sometimes almost without thinking about it, if something else is bugging me, I'll grab the nearest blade and 'the gear' and go to it. It is very therapeutic, to me. Seems to help me focus, when I need to. :)

That Dia-Fold that I'd almost ruined (so I thought) almost got thrown away. I'd looked at it and seen the 'bare' spots (again, so I thought) on the nickel, and just decided to toss it in a storage box, and forgot about it for a couple years. Finally came across it again when rummaging through the box's contents, and gave it a few passes on a knife from my pocket. Worked like charm; left a very clean & refined scratch pattern as well. Sort of looked like an 'extreme break-in' for the hone, and it really impressed me.


David

I'm going to quote Murray Carter again (sorry but he knows his stuff), but he says , people go out here and buy these jigs and the first time they dont get a razor edge they say junk this thing is junk , and blame it on the jig. However you can't do that with stones If you aren't getting results from stones you know it is your technique, not the stones themselves. He goes on to talk about what are you going to do if you need to sharpen a blade in the field etc.... Personally I was taught to sharpen at a young age on a whet rock, no idea what is was, and I could always get a shaving sharp edge on my knives, but not unitl BF did I discover mirror polishing and so forth, so I bought an edge pro and It's a great system, don't get me wrong, but when you get the same or better results by hand , It's an accomplishment, I've said this before and I'm getting off track but ANYONE should be able to get a hair whittling edge from the EP , but do it freehanded and the satisfaction is so much greater...
 
Thought I'd add my own experiences with lapping my Spyderco Fine, used a tile rubbing stone from HD and a lot of 120grit SIC grit. The grit would break down fairly quickly into a fine silt and fresh grit need to be added often. Spent a couple hours off and on working it. Was able to get it down to near mirror finish - dry and held at a shallow angle, it throws back a very faithful reflection. Was able to almost completely eliminate the small ripples that he stone came with. My choice of abrasive wasn't the best though, am convinced it polished the stone so smooth it was left with almost zero abrasive qualities. Was nearly impossible to remove a burr with it, had pretty much no feedback, though it would shine up an edge nicely. I went back after it with a diamond plate, but by then had gotten into waterstones and never really went back to see how it turned out. Used the Fine side a few times and it still had good feedback and action.
Long story short - In my opinion one should use diamonds only on this stone if you're going to lap it, so you have some microscratching left for a surface treatment. In my case I believe I polished it smooth enough wound up being a downgrade instead of an improvement.

Martin
 
Allen R, I feel the same way you do about sharpening with a jig. I traded for WE system and I find it very boring compared to freehand sharpening. Nothing like hitting the stones for some good ol' gratification/therapy. Or in my case, frustrating sometimes because of the obsession :) Haha! I just can't leave my blade alone til I get it to my satisfaction.

Thanks for the tips and heads up
 
Allen R, I feel the same way you do about sharpening with a jig. I traded for WE system and I find it very boring compared to freehand sharpening. Nothing like hitting the stones for some good ol' gratification/therapy. Or in my case, frustrating sometimes because of the obsession :) Haha! I just can't leave my blade alone til I get it to my satisfaction.

Thanks for the tips and heads up
It seems like a lot of people around here including myself end up going back to freehand after trying out different sharpening systems. I learned how to sharpen freehand about 10 years ago and since then I've tried various systems like the Sharpmaker, Lanksy, Edge Pro...etc and now I've started freehand sharpening again.
 
Well, I thought it would be an good idea to clean the medium side of the doublestuff with my old DMT 120 micron benchstone. It wasn't. In the very beginning of the lapping project I found out that the medium stone was not flat and three very slicky areas emerged. I stopped right away and now I own a medium stone which have a quite uneven grit pattern. Sure can use it but...but.
 
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