Made a strop. It ain't pretty. Questions follow.

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Apr 23, 2002
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My son and I were goofing around and we made a strop.
Picked up a peice of leather from Ferguson's Saddlery, some adhesive, a peice of counter backsplash board, and a paintbrush handle to trace. Here is our creation step by step.

Did I mention that we have a new dig camera and I am driving people crazy with it?
 
Fat finger make a nice tracing guide. Nice cuts huh? i knew I should have paid more attention in woodshop...
 
The Old English Scratch Remover works as a stain, if you didn't already know that. the adhesive was recommended at Ferguson's for glueing leather to wood.
 
Applied the goop. I let it get a bit tacky then spread it to the edges, as I didn't have the forthought to put something under my work area.
 
And here it is.

I have leather on two sides. I thought about using emery cake on one side for heavy work and white rouge on the other for finish. The excess wood may be a problem, may have to cut it back.

What should I have done differently, what do I do now. Input welcome.

Ed
 
A nice job overall. I would suggest taking that excess wood off the sides as that will get in the way with some knives.
 
I know this is a stupid question to most, But how else am I going to learn? What the hell is a Strop used for?? Thanks
 
Hahah, I dont really know either. I think sharpening or honing or something. Pretty sure it has somethign to do with finishing up sharpening on a blade though.
 
A strop is a piece of leather used to polish an edge. They were used all the time in the days of straight razors. In other words, they are the final step in making an edge "razor sharp" and are used by pulling the edge along the leather rather than pushing it. Straight razors needed a polished finish on the blade for purposes of comfort in use.

What folks should understand is that most knives don't benefit from being "razor sharp." Actually they work better if they don't have a polished edge and have some coarseness to the edge. It is the geometry of the edge that determines performance, not the final finish for most applications.

I learned to sharpen when I was a fine bookbinder many years ago. The tools had to be very, very sharp indeed so sharpening was a constant effort throughout the bookbinding process. We used to hollow grind large chisels at very acute angles and then sharpen them to a polished finish. We would use them like a knife in a fixture to trim the tops from folios to make them smooth and even as you see them in almost any book. These chisels couldn't be used for anything else because the edge geometry and edge finish were appropriate only for trimming folios. The same holds true for a leather paring knife. It does a great job paring the suede side of leather but doesn't do anything else very well.

I sharpen kitchen knives to what I would describe as a coarse finish and sporting knives to a medium finish (about like a factory edge.) I don't use stones any finer than medium for sharpening general purpose knives and they perform best that way. If I need to demonstrate sharpness by peeling unsupported newspaper into strips, I can polish the edge temporarily but then I roughen it when I'm done because I spend little practical time actually peeling newsprint.

And to the original poster. I have about 1/2 dozen strops like the one you made (with the wood and leather flush at the edges) that I used for bookbinding. I usually had the suede side of the cowhide on one side and 400 grit carbide wet/dry sandpaper on the other side. I could touch up the edge with the sandpaper and then flip the strop to polish the edge on the leather. Most bookbinders use a similar sharpening device and keep it on the bench all the time since it's used every few minutes. I still use them occasionally today even though I have gone to powered sharpening for the most part. Take care.
 
I make my strops from those paint stirring sticks you get free at the paint store.
 
Originally posted by misque
A nice job overall. I would suggest taking that excess wood off the sides as that will get in the way with some knives.

I gotta agree with misque, trim the wood till it's flush with the leather. I've made many strops over the years, and generally only use them to get a hairpoppin' edge on my thinner blades, but than my EDC's tend to have a more aggressive, less refined edge.
 
I appreciate the comments so far.
If I use the emery cake, can I touch up the coarse rdges on my EDC knives rather than taking it to the stone as often?
 
Ed, five comments:

1. Good job! DYI projects are the most fun.
2. I agree with leather to the edges of the wooden paddle. It is makes for an even stropping surface and also gives you more area to strop longer blades with.
3. I believe in steeling the edge to straighten out any rolling or deformation before stropping.
4. To keep the surface of the strop as flat as possible, put a flat piece of wood (2" x 4") on the leather and stack some weight on it while the glue is curing.
5. Get some decent sharpening compound. There are many - I got mine from Lee Valley Tools.
 
Thanks Geode,

I will trim it back, I think. That is one of the nice things about using that Old English scratch remover as a stain. Once I trim it back, I can touch up the sides and it will look the same.

My thinking on leaving wood on the side was due to my own pathology. I have a tendency to lift up at the end of stokes. As in lift the spine. My thoughts were that I would see cuts in the wood if I was doing that. Sort of force me to learn a good finish to the draw. But maybe this is excessive.

editted to add:
The lee Valley site is the one to lead me to the conclusion that I could make this pretty easily. Cost a few dollars less. The time with my seven year old gave it most of it's value.
 
Ed T,

ain't it the truth - time spent with the son is priceless. Plus you can always talk about that strop you made. A hunk of compound from Lee Valley or anywhere else will last you a good long time. Certain jewler's rouges are good too.

Like any abrasive - they come in different grits.
 
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