Made my first sanmai today!

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kdnolin

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Jan 16, 2017
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C0ADC6B6-9AA9-4E25-A392-C2F2B563CAC8.jpeg 81EB5F48-DD56-4C72-AEF9-4BC36747F41A.jpeg Willie71 Willie71 has given a few forged billets and I’m starting to really like the stuff. So a coworker brought his forge into our workplace shop for me to try. I tried a 52100/mild steel and failed. Then after texting with Warren I tried 80crv2/mild steel and I think it worked!!! Still has to survive heat treat, but I might be getting hooked on this forge welding thing.
 
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Looking good - I like San Mai, and especially SS clad San Mai. I usually use 1095 or 1080 range for core. Since I only have "arm 'n Hammer" for forging so San Mai works good for me, or low layer count Damascus. You gonna enjoy working with the stuff.
 
Fortunately I have a 50 ton press at work, I used it to set the welds. Then I drew it out by hand with a cheap machinists hammer. I’m going to make dies for my press, getting too old to hammer it out by hand. I suppose a proper hammer would make it quicker...
 
kdnolin said:
Fortunately I have a 50 ton press at work, I used it to set the welds. Then I drew it out by hand with a cheap machinists hammer. I’m going to make dies for my press, getting too old to hammer it out by hand. I suppose a proper hammer would make it quicker...
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If you use right thickness of steel you don t need to drew it out .Just weld it and cut shape of knife after that .......That s how I do it ....https://bladeforums.com/threads/first-san-mai-weld.1710025/page-2

Good luck with quench you will need it :)
 
Natlek said:
If you use right thickness of steel you don t need to drew it out .Just weld it and cut shape of knife after that .....
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That would work, maybe for a kitchen knife, but I would not have the rustic look i was going for. No 'real' hammer marks and no wavy line on the steel transition.
 
I have some 4140 hex shaft from a John Deere combine for hammers if you want a couple sections for hammers.
 
kdnolin said:
LOL! baby steps! Possibly try a low layer damascus, maybe 32. Should i try 26c3 or stick with 80crv2 for now?
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Either is fairly easy. 80crv2 has that little bit of chromium. Not so much to cause problems, but enough that prep is a bit more important than 1084. After using W2 first, then cruforge v, then 80crv2, then 1084, 1084 set so easily and was harder to delaminate. There is a reason it is the most recommended steel for this.

Do you want a piece of 1/4” thick 15n20 for a san Mai to try in place of mild?
 
C66D119A-DC01-4C9C-A151-1941093438C4.jpeg AAB7F4FE-9E4C-40BF-8DE6-49D1D14CF0B2.jpeg C66D119A-DC01-4C9C-A151-1941093438C4.jpeg Well the first one survived everything but the temper :(
But the big one did! So did my first try at Damascus. I wasn’t going to remove the forge scale, but now that it has been sanded and etched, it looks out of place. After that handle, possibly a D guard and antler....
 
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