Magna Guide Instructions

[cziv]

DMT magna guide instructions list 7 angle setting - one per each of the 7 notches. Are they inclusive angles? The instructions say to set both sides the same. The most acute angle setting for a 1 inch blade would be 18*, per directions and if inclusive, that would be a 36* bevel and other settings would be extremely high and kind of absurd. That doesn't sound right to me.

Anyone care to clarify please?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I'm betting the marked angles are the 'per side' numbers. To us sharpening nuts, a 36 degree inclusive angle might sound absurd and thick, but to the rest of the 'typical' users who'll likely use it, that's probably in the ballpark for a 'using edge'. Consider the alternative, that an 18 degree inclusive angle would likely be equally absurd to most users (9 per side; that's getting VERY thin).

As with any clamped guide setup, the only real way to know what the actual angle will be, is to actually measure it. Even if everyone used a 1" wide blade, there'd still be some variation, just due to how specifically the blade is positioned in the clamp. Clamp close to the spine, the angle might be lower than advertised. Nestle the blade more deeply into the clamp, and the angle will be higher. And the angle will change if the blade is clamped nearer to the tang/ricasso, or closer to the tip. All kinds of variables.

Edit:
I just downloaded a pdf of the Magna-Guide instructions. The copy I'm looking at shows a 16 degree angle (instead of 18) for a 1" wide blade at the 'lowest' setting (7) on the clamp. Here's the link I looked at, to the pdf file:

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/magna_guide_instructions.pdf

 

[cziv]

Thanks, that's a couple of degrees lower than my instructions. I can't believe - at the 1" blade's thinnest bevel would be 32* which is bigger than the Sharpmaker's low setting. Hmmm...

I have managed to put some wicked edges on my knives with the Magna-Guide. It took some getting used to, but now it's a breeze and the edges are much sharper than factory - even Spydercos!

Setting 7, Lowest angle: Razors, X-ACTO Blades, Craft Knives = 34* inclusive

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks, that's a couple of degrees lower than my instructions. I can't believe - at the 1" blade's thinnest bevel would be 32* which is bigger than the Sharpmaker's low setting. Hmmm...

I have managed to put some wicked edges on my knives with the Magna-Guide. It took some getting used to, but now it's a breeze and the edges are much sharper than factory - even Spydercos!

Setting 7, Lowest angle: Razors, X-ACTO Blades, Craft Knives = 34* inclusive

Your post sort of caught my attention, because I'd just ordered the Magna-Guide a couple of days ago. Haven't received it yet, but I'm curious as to how it'll work out. I've heard a good many positive reviews of the Aligner/Magna-Guide here, so I thought I'd give it a go. Sounds like you're pretty happy with it.

I still think, if you're really curious about what the real angle is, it'd be worth checking it with a protractor or otherwise calculating it, based on blade dimensions & positioning in the clamp. I've used the Lansky & Gatco, and I think both of those are grossly inaccurate for most situations. One thing I do know, I've always used the lowest possible setting that'll fit (Lansky is marked '17', and the Gatco is marked '15', I think), and I've never found the finished bevel to be too obtuse/thick on either setup. Most blades I've done are not any wider than 1" or so, and I've done several pocketknives with blades 1/2" or less (using a higher setting), and those are scalpels now. I've found that the real advantage lies in a bevel that's pure & uniform along the full length of the cutting edge. As long as the edge is fully apexed to a nice, sharp 'V', even a slightly more obtuse bevel can produce outstanding results.

I sort of 'cut my teeth' on the Lansky & Gatco guided setups. They can work well, and I've been able to get some excellent edges from them, but their clamps do have their quirks. Need to be patient & careful in setting up the clamp. I'm anxious to see how the DMT compares.

Good luck with yours. :thumbup:

 

[singularity35]

My DMT aligner's clamp wont work at the lowest setting because the knob gets in the way of the rod. The lowest setting that worked for me was the second to lowest angle. A couple of months sharpening at that setting on my military and I found out that my angle bevel was over 50 degrees inclusive based on the edge pro. No wonder I couldn't get that knife sharp with the aligner kit at that point. Must have been poor technique.

 

[cziv]

My DMT aligner's clamp wont work at the lowest setting because the knob gets in the way of the rod. The lowest setting that worked for me was the second to lowest angle. A couple of months sharpening at that setting on my military and I found out that my angle bevel was over 50 degrees inclusive based on the edge pro. No wonder I couldn't get that knife sharp with the aligner kit at that point. Must have been poor technique.

Bummer.....I just dulled my new Military cutting cardboard and was going to give it an overhaul on the Magna-Guide. Sound like I better stick with the SharpMaker do some work at 30* then a micro-bevel at 40* which should work out since the knife is still sharp (technically) but needs to be touched up.

I'll set up the M-G on the lowest setting and see if I have a problems with hitting the knob first. I've encountered it before but haven't run into it lately, that's at the 2nd lowest setting though.

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

Hitting the knob on the lowest setting can sometimes be circumvented by positioning the blade farther out/away from the clamp.

The more I use my Magna-Guide the more motivated I become to improve my freehand skills. Even just freehand on the Diafolds themselves is an improvement in my books.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

One thing I'd already done, with my Lansky & Gatco clamps, was to replace the knob with a standard, lower profile screw. On those, the thread is a standard size (10-24, I think), and commonly available. Some sizes are even available in nylon, which would probably be ideal (won't strip out the threads in the clamp). Not sure if this is possible with the DMT clamp, but it's something I'll be looking into when mine arrives.

 

[cziv]

I used the lowsest setting and wasn't getting anywhere! I took it up one notch and wham - instant burr created on opposite side. So, went through every diafold size and stropped it to a beautiful edge.

I can freehand with the diafolds too. Do it all the time on my cheaper knives, but on a brand new knife, I like the factory looking finish that the guide gives.

Thanks!

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

I used the lowsest setting and wasn't getting anywhere! I took it up one notch and wham - instant burr created on opposite side.

Thanks!

Yeah, I noticed that too. The lowest angle setting will almost wear out the diafolds on most knives as the factory angles are waaay higher... I be strokin those diamonds all night and no sign of a burr on some knives, even using the XC diafold.

I think many are disappointed that the MG doesn't go any lower, but for most knives and most people the lowest is actually too low. Crank it up one setting and save youself hours of misery and frustration.

 

[cziv]

Yeah, I noticed that too. The lowest angle setting will almost wear out the diafolds on most knives as the factory angles are waaay higher... I be strokin those diamonds all night and no sign of a burr on some knives, even using the XC diafold.

I think many are disappointed that the MG doesn't go any lower, but for most knives and most people the lowest is actually too low. Crank it up one setting and save youself hours of misery and frustration.

You're absolutely right. I think those of us w/o 8x3" Diasharp plates or Edgepros, sometimes think we can hit those really low degree bevels we hear guys talking about. Not with a guided sharpener, even DMT's models. And, I agree with you that factory edges are a lot steeper than we (or at least I) imagine they are.

I read it here or heard Sal in a video talking about how sharp you can get a knife of 40* or so, simply by bringing the two bevels together perfectly and don't really need to run bevels of 30 and sub-30 degrees to be shaving sharp.