Maintaining a Convex edge without marring the finish?

[DarkReazon]

Does anybody know how to maintain a convex edge on a coated blade (eg. Howling Rat) without totally fouling up the coating? I've read Buzzbait's Convex FAQ, and I've got the mouse pad and various grit wet/dry sandpaper, do I pretty much have to kiss the coating goodbye, in order to maintain the edge? (this rat has seen alot of work, and is now pretty much dull ) I'll be going hiking in Algonquin this weekend, and would like to have it hair popping sharp by then. Thing is, I don't think the SR101 will survive the wet environment without a coating. What say you BFC, any advice?


Regards,

Shaun.

 

[Buzzbait]

I'm not familiar with the edge geometry of the Howling Rat. If the blade has a flat grind and convex edge bevel, you should be fine. With such a configuration, you are only abrading the edge bevel and not the entire blade. Start your stropping stroke with the highest point of the edge bevel (where the coating ends) touching the wet/dry paper, and work your way toward the edge. If you find that the mouse pad allows the blade to sink too far into the pad, try using a piece of thick leather instead of the pad.

Now if the entire blade is convex….. I have no answer. Coating a full convex grind is crazy.

 

[cerberus]

I don't have a Howling Rat, but I keep my 'Coot, CT and BR in top shape by frequest touch-ups on my ceramic crock stick then a light stroping ala the Buzzbait technique. Ken Warner states that all you need to do to maintain the convex design on one of his knives is a light steeling and strop on, of all things, cardboard.



Cerberus

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Buzzbait :

I'm not familiar with the edge geometry of the Howling Rat. If the blade has a flat grind and convex edge bevel ...

Yes, the edge is also very shallow convex, close to flat. The only real danger there is if you are really sloppy and grind into the primary accidently, some tape can be a guard until you are practiced with stropping.

-Cliff

 

[DarkReazon]

cerberus,

I'm just curious about the crock sticks. What type of touch up? (for instance I have a Sharpmaker 204) would I use the 40 degree setting, then strop on sandpaper/mousepad? Start with 600 grit SiC then move to a finer grit(I think I have up to 1200 grit at hand). I have never successfully done this before, and I don't want to kill my convex edge, but sharp is better than dull...I would hate reprofiling (intentionally or otherwise) my Howler. I'm more of a visual learner... I'll try to overcome this disability.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try it out. And here's hoping!


Shaun.