I recently purchased a small Sebenza 21 and read somewhere on here that a good way to maintain it is with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. After watching what seemed like 100's of YouTube videos of people using the Sharpmaker, I went ahead and purchased one. It seems simple enough to use, however being VERY new at all of this, it is pretty intimidating to think that I have to run my $350 knife back and forth between two stones and hope I get it right. I tried practicing on a cheap buck knife that I had laying around and was able to get it sharp but I wasn't really impressed (it was pretty dull to begin with and I probably need to work on it more). I'm assuming it's safe to use the 40 degree angle on the Sharpmaker for the Sebenza? Any suggestions for a newbie from anyone who uses the Sharpmaker to maintain their Sebenza?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Maintaining a Sebenza with Spyderco Sharpmaker
- Thread starter H2OResQ
- Start date
it was and still is popular among some but there is a learning curve... since i now have a wicked edge... i never use my sharpmaker (i have owned several)... two triangular ceramic crock sticks... thanks but no thanks... The wicked edge is light years ahead of the sharpmaker
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2002
- Messages
- 7,265
This isn't really helpful. He wants instruction on the tool he bought to maintain his knife.
Despite your insight on the wicked edge, many people do not have the money for such a purchase. It was enough that they bought the knife that they did.
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2010
- Messages
- 1,110
Watch the sharp maker video. It's pretty simple and don't worry about the knife it's a tool that's meant to be used.
My only sharpener is my Sharpmaker. I use it to resharpen my CRKs, and I even used it to reprofiling my first Sebenza back in 2002. There are probably better systems for reprofiling, but I used the SM because it doesn't remove too much metal at one time.
Unless you are using the Spyderco diamond rods, I wouldn't worry about ruining your knife. The SM removes metal gradually, so you have control over how much is removed. Sometimes CRKs might require a bit more work, because the edge bevels are ground convex. If the factory edge is already pretty thin, you should be able to sharpen with no problems. However, if the edge bevels were ground obtuse/thickly, it will take more work to wear down the 'shoulders' of the bevel to get at the 20 degrees per side angle.
Jim
Unless you are using the Spyderco diamond rods, I wouldn't worry about ruining your knife. The SM removes metal gradually, so you have control over how much is removed. Sometimes CRKs might require a bit more work, because the edge bevels are ground convex. If the factory edge is already pretty thin, you should be able to sharpen with no problems. However, if the edge bevels were ground obtuse/thickly, it will take more work to wear down the 'shoulders' of the bevel to get at the 20 degrees per side angle.
Jim
Thanks, Jim. I appreciate the reply and the helpful info. When the time comes that the knife needs to be touched up, I'll give it a shot. I'd rather learn how to do it myself than send it out for someone else to do it for me. So just to be clear, I should be okay with the 40 degree side of the SM?
My thoughts exactly. Thanks, bhyde! I would love a Wicked Edge..someday. Until then, I'll be using the Sharpmaker.
I believe 20 DPS (40 degrees inclusive) should be fine. If you're not sure about the blade's edge angle, you can mark the edge bevels with a magic marker, and as you use the rods, you will see what part of the bevels are contacting the rods. IMO, many CRK edge bevels seem ground at a bit thicker angle than 20 per side.
When I reprofiled my first Sebenza, which came dull, I actually started at 15 DPS (30 degrees inclusive) to really wear down the shoulders, and ended with 20 DPS. Of course, that reprofiling took me weeks off and on. It was a very slow process, which I wanted it to be. If you are just going to resharpen a CRK that's already pretty sharp, 20 DPS should be no problem. I've touched up my large and small Insingos after they began to 'drag' a little after some good use, and used the 20 DPS, and they resharpened with no problem. It didn't take too much work to resharpen them, either, because their original edges from the factory were quite good and ground nicely already. You do NOT need to press hard. My philosophy is 'gentle and consistent'.
Jim
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2015
- Messages
- 1,845
Great idea to try on a cheaper knife first. Try to keep the blade of the knife straight (not leaning in or out). Use a sharpie to make sure you are hitting the cutting edge and not the shoulder of the edge. Watch the videos, take your time and practice on kitchen knives or cheaper pocket knives. You'll get the hang of it quickly. The only other thing I would suggest is a good strop. It can make an already sharp edge like a razor blade if done correctly.
We get it. You like the WE. You've posted about it ad nauseam. Perhaps find another dead horse to beat on?
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2016
- Messages
- 1,270
I like my Sharpmaker...try a mirror to watch your vertical angle...it is simple and compact...and don't let your knives get too dull before touching them up. After you master it you can consider the diamond rods.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2013
- Messages
- 1,483
Good purchase on the sharp maker! I use mine to maintain my sebenza and it is easy to travel with. Like the guys mentioned above I would invest in the diamond rods. I use the 20dps.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2016
- Messages
- 11,261
Honestly with the Sharpmaker I only have luck going freehand. It is my only sharpening system. If I put the rods in the jig they rarely match the edge angle on the knife closely enough to sharpen. This is because the Sharpmaker only has angle settings for 30 and 40 degrees inclusive, not including its 15 degree angle for sharpening scissors out its side.
This coupled with the fact the sharpmaker takes forever to grind the steels on knives these days means my blades take FOREVER to be ground to thay 30 or 40. I have zero luck with the diamond rods too. The steels skip off the diamond rods too much and don't grind smoothly. I feel like I have to hold the triangle rods in hand and match the angle on the edge. (This took alot of practice)
Does anyone else have this problem? What am I doing wrong? I think the sharpmaker is great for touching up edges. However if the edge is obtuse on say a D2 blade it will take me a month of straight grinding to get it sharp.
This coupled with the fact the sharpmaker takes forever to grind the steels on knives these days means my blades take FOREVER to be ground to thay 30 or 40. I have zero luck with the diamond rods too. The steels skip off the diamond rods too much and don't grind smoothly. I feel like I have to hold the triangle rods in hand and match the angle on the edge. (This took alot of practice)
Does anyone else have this problem? What am I doing wrong? I think the sharpmaker is great for touching up edges. However if the edge is obtuse on say a D2 blade it will take me a month of straight grinding to get it sharp.
Ajack60
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2013
- Messages
- 8,474
The sharpie to mark the edge is your friend. If all your doing is a touch up, then it shouldn't be too time consuming. As you've experienced with a really dull knife, it will take time to get the edge back to hair popping.
Yes, the 40 degree angle is fine for your CRK, remember that's 20 degrees per side and I believe that's what CRK recommends.
Like prwdbycotn suggested, get a strop to finish up with. You'll be amazed at what the strop does for the blade.
Yes, the 40 degree angle is fine for your CRK, remember that's 20 degrees per side and I believe that's what CRK recommends.
Like prwdbycotn suggested, get a strop to finish up with. You'll be amazed at what the strop does for the blade.
Peter Hartwig
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2008
- Messages
- 5,658
I always have found using the magic marker(sharpie) to be helpful in determining the correct angle no matter what system I used-there may be some variance in edge angle among Sebenza's and this will help you see what your are doing.
It is never bad to start with less expensive knives until you get the jist of any system. In your case however with a very dull knife it could take some time to get it sharp with the sharp maker. The sharpmaker doesn't remove masses of material quickly. Diamond stones are quicker.
It is never bad to start with less expensive knives until you get the jist of any system. In your case however with a very dull knife it could take some time to get it sharp with the sharp maker. The sharpmaker doesn't remove masses of material quickly. Diamond stones are quicker.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2016
- Messages
- 11,261
But if you are using sharpie and want to remove it then you are not holding the knife vertically completely. So you are basically doing what I say you try and match the edge angle to the stone. Doing my CRK knives was very challenging because of the covex.
The SM is relatively gentle compared to many guided sharpening systems and I can't imagine anything being easier to use. The sebenzas are original sharpened at a convex edge by hand and may be greater than a 40 degree included angle so initial re profiling at 40 may take a while on the grey stones. Use a sharpie to make sure you're getting the full edge. Once you reprofile to match the 40 v edge it should only require a few stokes to maintain in the future.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, EVERYONE for the replies! Ajack, this just cleared up so much. I thought 40 degree was 40 per side. 20 per side makes more sense now.
