Maintaining D2 on a Volt

Pics or it didn't happen!

You think it's rust? Try a few drops of (insert your knife oil of choice here) and with a soft cloth, rub it into the blade.
 
Pics tomorrow, I'm in bed.

I'm out of knife oil, last one I had was crap. What do you recommend, my friend?
 
I use Rem-Oil (when available), Tri-Flow or even WD-40 is decent. In that order. ;)
 
Will WD-40 do fine as a short term solution? I know I have that somewhere.

Will it work to maintain blades even? Or is it a worst-case scenario option?
 
MoreToasties said:
Will WD-40 do fine as a short term solution? I know I have that somewhere.

Will it work to maintain blades even? Or is it a worst-case scenario option?
Click to expand...

WD-40 is better at keeping things from rusting than lubricating. WD stands for "Water Displacer"...
 
Any brown slippery stuff will work great. Just don't use a high viscosity. It can make the pivot/opening mechanism feel slow.
 
WD 40 is not a lube or protector, it's more of a cleaner.
The proof is in the puddin' here on the waterfront. Things cleaned with WD 40 will get rusty awfully quick in my trade.
WD 40 has caused me more problems than its solved.

me -2 cents
 
MoreToasties said:
Will WD-40 do fine as a short term solution? I know I have that somewhere.

Will it work to maintain blades even? Or is it a worst-case scenario option?
Click to expand...
A good short-term solution would be 3-in-1 oil, which would be serviceable for both rust protection and lubrication. You probably already have it around somewhere, but if not you can pick it up cheaply at any local hardware or big box store.

For a long-term solution, I second the suggestion of Tuf-Glide.
 
Greetings MoreToasties: If the rust on the spine is located on or slightly behind your favorite spot for finger placement when closing the blade ~ you know what is causing it. D-2 contains just slightly less available Chromium than is needed to quickly form protective oxides. THOROUGHLY removing ALL existing rust before applying a protective layer of inhibitor is usually a good idea. If a trace remains, any moisture adsorbed by the rust, with trapped oxygen, can still continue to react with the steel even if the area is covered with a protective layer of lubricant. Absent other causes, this is why rust sometimes seems to spread outward from a central point or reoccurs in the same location. I suggest thoroughly removing all surface rust down to the bare metal continuing past the point where it is no longer visible before applying your moisture displacer, lubricant, protectant etc. If not it could come back. OldDude1
 
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A squirt of WD-40 and some light scrubbing should take any light rust off. Follow that with some Rem-oil and you should be good to go.
 
OldDude1 said:
Greetings MoreToasties: If the rust on the spine is located on or slightly behind your favorite spot for finger placement when closing the blade ~ you know what is causing it. D-2 contains just slightly less available Chromium than is needed to quickly form protective oxides. THOROUGHLY removing ALL existing rust before applying a protective layer of inhibitor is usually a good idea. If a trace remains, any moisture adsorbed by the rust, with trapped oxygen, can still continue to react with the steel even if the area is covered with a protective layer of lubricant. Absent other causes, this is why rust sometimes seems to spread outward from a central point or reoccurs in the same location. I suggest thoroughly removing all surface rust down to the bare metal continuing past the point where it is no longer visible before applying your moisture displacer, lubricant, protectant etc. If not it could come back. OldDude1
Click to expand...

Thank you! I really appreciate it.
 
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