Maintaining Double-Cut blades

Will York

Will York

Joined
Jan 21, 2000
Messages
8,888
I've had double-cut Busse's before that have collected oxidation on the surface in the form of a darkened cast to the surface. I currently have some DC blades that I'd like to use, but I'm a little leary of whether I'll be able to clean them back up to original condition.

Can some of you DC lovers tell me how you clean your DC blades? I've thought about using steel wool or Scothbrite pads, but was unsure how they might mark the surface and was also unsure what coarseness to use.

Thanks for any suggestions/observations,
Will
 
DC cleans up great, I just use Bar Keepers friend, scotch brite pad and of course some warm water.
 
Gerberblades said:
DC cleans up great, I just use Bar Keepers friend, scotch brite pad and of course some warm water.
Click to expand...

To date, I haven't even needed the Bar Keepers friend.

Just some liquid soap, warm water, and that scotch brite pad.

It's been very easy.
 
I have been using Pre-Lim followed by Ren Wax. That combo really does do a wonderful job of bringing out a nice DC aura.
 
.

I use a scotchbrite pad (blue) and then, if I want it to look real good, a trip to my glass bead cabinet!

:D
 
I used one of those scotch brite pads, the dark gray ones, and they scratched the hell out of my Jackhammer. It was easily fixed with high grit wet/dry paper but I was surprised at how abrasive the pad was. I have used flitz and been happy with the results.
 
Thanks for those suggestions--I appreciate the help.

OldPhysics and Gerberblades--since the two of you seem to have had the best results with Scotch brite pads, can you tell me what color (coarseness) you use?

Thanks again!
Will
 
Last edited:
After using a factory blasted Busse knife, I always cleaned with some ballistol and whipe it off with a tissue. After that I spray again some ballistol on it and then put it back in the sheath until the knife will be used again.
 
Will, I've had very good results with these pads on DC blades. They are not coarse at all, but they sure clean like the dickens. I note that they make an "extra power" version now. You might try them before you use a more abrasive Scotch Brite.

s0234668_enl.jpg
 
Be careful on DC finishes when using abrasives. Too course and it will leave a "shine" mark behind. Similar to kydex sheath rubs.

You might want to go with Guyon suggestion to start....if it doesn't work then maybe Tim suggestion (blue pad) might work.

It's never been an issue with me.....I have a blast cabinet.;)
 
ok

how much is a blast cabinet??

and

the magic erasers are just that...MAGIC. Especially, with children and their messes;)
 
knife hunter said:
ok

how much is a blast cabinet??

and

the magic erasers are just that...MAGIC. Especially, with children and their messes;)
Click to expand...

Harbor Freight sells some blast cabinets that are pretty inexpensive. Of course, you need a compressor and some media.
 
Or... you could check with your local machine shop for your bead blasting needs.

Many around my parts will do the job for little or nothing.:thumbup:


.
 
Guyon said:
Harbor Freight sells some blast cabinets that are pretty inexpensive. Of course, you need a compressor and some media.
Click to expand...

The media is pretty expensive if you want the correct stuff. It is not glass beads, but ceramic beads and imported from France at that!:eek:

Zirblast is the trade name and is great stuff, but you better have plenty of blades to do to justify the cost. Lasts for more than a few trips through the blaster and won't cut the steel, but rather, peens it. Do a Google on it.

Rob
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top