maintenance strop??

getridone

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Dec 5, 2011
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What do you guys use to touch up an edge after weekly normal use? Checked my EDC folder, AUS8 steel, for shaving sharpness and it failed, 3 freehand strokes per side on long lansky medium ceramic stick and shaved decent enough.

So when you don't really need to completely sharpen, just hone what's a good choice?
 
OK, so this is what I'm getting at, this is from a post I just made over in the Becker forum:

"couple minutes ago roused BK5 from her sheath and proceeded to cut newsprint and attempt to shave a spot on my leg. Paper cutting OK, no go on the shave - so - I soaked my 800/4000 waterstone, then freehanded her on 4000, moving her blade back and forth working the her down the stone, did this about 4 times on each side, then did paper cut, better, then did hair shave MUCHO better. So, could I have achieved what I achieved just stropping? In other words did I remove unnecessary metal to achieve something that could of been done with a strop??? Thanks!"
 
Whether you could've done the same with a strop, depends on the strop, and also on why the edge wasn't shaving hair initially. If the poor shaving was just due to a wire edge that had rolled over, a strop could probably fix that. If, on the other hand, the lack of shaving performance was due to a 'dull' edge, or a slightly less-than-perfectly apexed edge, a strop might not fix that (probably won't, most of the time). A bare leather strop won't do much on an edge that isn't truly ready for stropping (meaning it's not fully apexed). And a strop with very fine compound, or a compound not ideal for the steel, might not help either.

When I 'touch up' my edges, if I find that the strop isn't quite enough, I'll take a very small step back in grit. For example, if I usually strop on bare leather, and need something a little more aggessive, I'll fall back to 1 micron diamond paste on leather (or hardwood). If that's not quite enough, I might step back to 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on top of my strop block. That usually is enough to get the edge popping again; then I'll go back up the grit chain, to diamond, then finishing on bare leather or on my jeans.

With time and experience, you'll begin to recognize, just in the way the edge is cutting, how much exactly is needed for a touch-up. It'll minimize the 'overkill' on sharpening a blade, so you don't remove more metal than is truly necessary. If you strop or touch up fairly often, and don't let the edge become truly dull, you'll rarely need to go back to the stones, or at least, never back to the coarse ones.
 
on a side note you really don't remove much metal with 4 passes p side on a 4k waterstone. try raising a burr on a dull blade with it and you'll understand. i am not even sure you worn a micron on your blade doing so.
 
OK, so this is what I'm getting at, this is from a post I just made over in the Becker forum:

"couple minutes ago roused BK5 from her sheath and proceeded to cut newsprint and attempt to shave a spot on my leg. Paper cutting OK, no go on the shave - so - I soaked my 800/4000 waterstone, then freehanded her on 4000, moving her blade back and forth working the her down the stone, did this about 4 times on each side, then did paper cut, better, then did hair shave MUCHO better. So, could I have achieved what I achieved just stropping? In other words did I remove unnecessary metal to achieve something that could of been done with a strop??? Thanks!"

4000 grit waterstone is pretty fine - according to the chart its about 3 micron. Chances are you didn't remove any more metal than you would have with a loaded strop.

I've had good results "stropping" on my 4000 and 6000 grit waterstones - just using a trailing stroke. When this starts to not work so well I'll go back down to the 800 or 1000. The first thing I try is stropping on newspaper, if that doesn't help I'll move to a polishing stone.
 
I have a 14u strop that can touch up an edge pretty fast for me. The upside is, it doesn't mar by polished bevels.
 
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