make s30v more rust resistance?

B

Bjblade

Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
98
Hey gang,

I use a zt-9 as my super beast bomb knife. Well, recently bomb knife spent about 4 day submerged in mud and after it all, there is significant rust spots up the blade and under the scales. As this is my only non coated s30v blade, I didn't know it was easily rusted. I'm wondering if there is a cheap way to make it hold up a little better
Thanks all
 
:D

rust.jpg
 
I use Birchwood Casey Sheath. You put it on like WD-40, but it provides lasting corrosion protection. I hear Fluid Film works quite well also, and is used the same way. Fluid Film is commonly used to good effect for corrosion protection on the undercarriage of motor vehicles in places with salt-covered roads, for what it's worth.
 
Do you.think rustolium would hold up to abuse?

I've tried liquid lubricants, it becomes quite a mess in the dirt.

On another note, eod guys have been using the m11 eod knife for some time. It is a crappy bolt knife. But the advantage over regular bayonets is that it has a hammer pommel, and a finger guard that doesn't have the ring for the barrel. Do you think zt would ever consider a conversion kit that.
 
Bjblade said:
Do you.think rustolium would hold up to abuse?

I've tried liquid lubricants, it becomes quite a mess in the dirt.
Click to expand...
The ":D" preceding the Rustoleum suggestion means he was kidding...

Maybe look into TUF-GLIDE / TUF-CLOTH... It is effectively a dry lubricant that is applied via a liquid "carrier" that evaporates.
 
Two s30v blanks were left in my shed over about a six month period. The shed is dry as a bone and both blanks still showed signs of rust. I have long since forgotten most of my rants and raves about rust, but it is a major pet peeve of mine. When I am on the boat I carry my trusty knife by Mission. That MPK never so much as utters a whimper when it comes to oxidization. It is the only sheath knife that I trust not to rust in a heavily drenched area, especially on extended fishing trips around the woefully dreaded knife-killer saltwater.
 
I apply a forced patina to high carbon blades. I just apply some mayo, mustard, vinegar, whatever on the blade and let it set a little while. I've read that once the patina is there, the steel is protected from further rust. I don't know if that's true but it has worked for me.

Here's a pic of a couple of Dan Koster's knives. The knife on the left is a carbon steel Karda with the patina I spoke of. Purdy huh?

Koster.jpg
 
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Sand it down to about 1500 grit or stone wash it. Youtube has a few videos on DIY stone washing.

Even fine 3m pads may help if it has a bead blasted finished.
 
All good advice, to be honest, as long as I doesn't spread, I'm cool with it. I just don't want a completely.rusted.out knife you know
 
To prevent rust on my knives, I usually put a coat of Flitz on them, wipe the blades down and then follow up with my Tuf-Cloth(w/Tuf-Glide). I've never had a problem with rust on any of them after that treatment, although on some rare occasions, I might see a speck or two of rust near the thumbstud area but it comes off with a little Flitz and a Rust Eraser.
 
Most knives submerged in water will have some sort of rust spotting, how deep that rust goes depends on the heat treat of the actual steel and stuff!

A great way to keep your blades a little more rust resistant is Durakote, it's just spray on, no need to send it out for anything fancy. Cerakote is great too but it's impossible to take off.
 
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