Maker stamp

Brian Avila

Brian Avila

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,286
I have been thinking about a maker stamp for my leather.

Is there anything that I need to be thinking about when looking at getting a maker's stamp?

Suggestions on who makes good maker's stamp?

-Brian-
 
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There are a few options on how the stamp will imprint. They make metal and plastic stamps that you press, stamps that you use a mallet with, and even stamps that you brand (electrical heat).

The least expensive are the plastic variety that you use some sort of press with. Most common presses are a c-clamp, arbor press, drill press, vice or whatever you have that can apply a good amount of pressure. I can only speak to this type as it's what I chose.

The place I got mine did a great job of getting very good definition on the font. It's a very clean impression with a font that is fairly complex.

Things I like are that it works well, it was inexpensive and seems plenty durable for the job.

Things I don't like, it can be difficult to place perfectly (I've marked the back side to help), I use a piece of wood on either side so that the damp leather doesn't get marked by the steel of whatever I'm using to press with which can be difficult. I chose a stamp a tad too large. The large size, I'm sure, is at least partially responsible for the great definition, but it doesn't fit on every sheath. I'm going to have a 1" stamp made, and I'll ask about maybe going with a different font in case the designer thinks that might be a better option for the size.

If I had to do it over I'd go the same way, but a bit smaller. Metal stamps are probably going to last forever so long as you take care of it and don't drop it. It's like any striking tool, you can bin it from being distracted.

Finally, I did grind out a simple omega symbol using stainless bar and it works pretty well. The definition isn't as good, and it's not deep enough for anything but flat surfaces (a curve will blow out the definition), but I still use it and it was free. I would reckon that most guys with any grinding experience could do the same barring lettering.

Example of pro stamp.

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Hand ground stamp.

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I've got two steel ones and they are built for life Brian, but crazy spendy too. I forgot who I got em from. Do you make other leather items besides your sheaths? (you really should the stamping you do). That might determine what kind of mark you wanted to use or what it said.
 
Horsewright said:
I've got two steel ones and they are built for life Brian, but crazy spendy too. I forgot who I got em from. Do you make other leather items besides your sheaths? (you really should the stamping you do). That might determine what kind of mark you wanted to use or what it said.
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As of right now, no I don't make anything else. But I am a person who will just make what I want, so who knows for the future.
 
Then you might want to tie your leather stamp into your makers mark thats on your knives. Western leathercraft it seems the oval is traditional with name up above, maker in the center and then the town and state on the bottom part fo the oval.

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Not a great pic but this shows mine on the belt. Horsewright on top of the oval. Maker in the center with two little diamonds one on each side and Tehachapi Ca on the bottom part of the oval. The belt there is 1.25" so kind of gives you an idea of the size. Fits on just about eveyrthing I make.
 
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Brian,

As far as any stamp goes, I think the key factor is readability. If people can't read and understand your stamp, it probably won't bring you any additional business.

As for where to get a stamp, I just purchased one from Phillips Engraving, which was recommended by several people on the Leatherworker.net. Their stamps are made of magnesium and they are much less expensive than steel stamps. I received my new stamp within a week, and I am very pleased with it. With a "hefty" backer attached, and shipping, the total was $58.00. (That's less than half of what I paid for a steel knife stamp about 15 years ago.)

 
That's a very reasonable price Chris. Hefty, meaning that you use a "Hefty" mallet handle?

One thing about pricing is that, if you do go with an oval or other template, the price is usually lower. For something where graphic design is necessary, the price is usually higher. My own needs didn't really fit a template therefore I chose the font from dafont.com and provided the image in my avatar for the center graphic.
 
Anthony,

Yes, I already had a snap-in handle (either the hefty handle or the snap-in one will work), so I didn't need to buy one. In case anyone was wondering, the backer is just epoxied on, so you could use your own backer if you have an extra. (FYI, I just looked on the Tandy web site, and I don't see blank backers for sale.) I went with the oval template, but I chose the font and changed the format a little. After a couple of exchanged emails, I just laid the design out in Adobe Acrobat and sent it to them. It didn't cost any extra for my changes. I tried a bunch of fonts, but went with Arial Black for readability.
 
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Chris Meyer said:
Anthony,

Yes, I already had a snap-in handle (either the hefty handle or the snap-in one will work), so I didn't need to buy one. In case anyone was wondering, the backer is just epoxied on, so you could use your own backer if you have an extra. (FYI, I just looked on the Tandy web site, and I don't see blank backers for sale.) I went with the oval template, but I chose the font and changed the format a little. After a couple of exchanged emails, I just laid the design out in Adobe Acrobat and sent it to them. It didn't cost any extra for my changes. I tried a bunch of fonts, but went with Arial Black for readability.
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Good deal. I have a snap in too. Very handy.

It's possible my guy took pity on me because I don't have any vector (or any other) software for arranging my own design, but he waived any extra charges. I'd consider going with a mag stamp, but I do like to support this guy as much as possible. He's the guy on etsy that sends free "made in the USA" stamps to leather workers that want to identify their work in that way. Everything from beginning to end was extremely smooth. We all have our favorite vendors. :) ;)

This is the image Steve sent me before he shipped the stamp.

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I use two sizes of nylon stamps. They work very well, only thing is that they are realy short so you have to watch your fingers when hammering.



 
I was think just a metal type stamp. I hesitate on the nylon ones because I don't know if I would break it. I am kinda hard on my tools.
 
Well you'd be happy with one of those steel ones then Brian. My small one is a solid block of steel 1/2"x1" x5". It has a monolithic feel to it when you pick it up. Like you could hammer it through a safe door or something.
 
It would be cool to have a stamp for the knife and sheath both. I'm not up to speed on what they make the steel on steel stamps from, but I'd guess it would be tool steel and not a stainless. Plus most guys like to etch steel... I prefer the look of stamping the makers mark on a knife.
 
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