Maker's Marks and Tang Stamps

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Feb 28, 2009
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Hello all,

As some of you know, I'm an aspiring slip joint maker. As I get closer to making something that I'd consider showing in public, the question of a maker's mark comes to mind. I'm curious to know, in addition to the maker's name, what information people like to see marked on the blade, or elsewhere. Personally, I like seeing the steel type marked on the pile side of the master blade. I also like the idea of serial numbers as I think this might add value for customers; however, name, steel type and serial number would start to get cluttered if all are marked on the blade. I'm leaning towards name and location (state) on the mark side, steel type on the pile side and possibly a serial number on the inside/underside of the spring. All that said, what do you prefer?

Thanks,
JC
 
Steel stamping makes it clear what it is and removes the guessing. The only problem is if you stamp it wrong (I have done this) then your blade is finished unless you can clean it up and restamp. Talk to TA Davison about serial numbers to get the makers side of the issue. I would think that collectors would like idea of serial numbers.
 
I generally like Maker's signature, place of origina at one side. Steel on other side of tang. Serial number's I prefer on bolsters.
 
serial number inside the spring sounds like a good plan, I think maker, steel and date are pretty good, you could always do something sneaky and put things under the scales too :P signature or something interesting that nobody will know about :D but I could be wrong.
 
You're new to the game, concentrate on the knife, not the mark. I'd suggest just your name. If it is a common name, include the city and/or state. If you start to attract customers, you'll quickly know if serial numbers or steel type is worth marking. Many slipjoint makers never change steel, so why mark it? You can always provide a "certificate" with all the details.
 
I like a makers mark that is rather small and simple. Something with the makers name and location is ideal. Logos and symbols are too cryptic, at least over time.

Steel type on a traditional folder isn't important to me. Maybe stamped on reverse of tang, or even simply printed on blade?

I like the idea of serial numbers, especially if you plan on producing multiple knives that would be otherwise indistinguishable.

Year. Anza does it on the spine of their fixed blades, which works very well. On a small folder I think you run the risk of cluttering. Not necessary anyway if the knives have serial numbers.

Best Luck to you!
 
I think the makers name and steel type on back looks great. I do not care for serial numbers engraved on the bolsters at all. The more the knife gives the appearance of an old traditional pocket knife, the better.
 
Steel stamping makes it clear what it is and removes the guessing. The only problem is if you stamp it wrong (I have done this) then your blade is finished unless you can clean it up and restamp. Talk to TA Davison about serial numbers to get the makers side of the issue. I would think that collectors would like idea of serial numbers.

I gave him some advice.... :eek::confused::D

I hope I didn't ruin all the fun for him.......:D

Good luck Josh, look forward to seeing your knives. - :thumbup:

TA


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personally i dont like a cluttered tang, so when i make blades all im putting is my mark and keep a certificate with all the other info in the box, but of course that is to say that i actually sell anything. lol
 
Stamp makers name, city, state on front - steel type on back (I love it when custom knives are stamped with the steel type). Do NOT put anything on the bolsters -- this is only done by production companies as noob collector bait - most serious collectors hate it (as do most that really just want to collect for the beauty - they don't want the bolsters marred). Besides, many of your knives may not have bolsters. I'm of two minds about serial numbers -- I'd say leave them off personally. Some makers like to put year made on their knives -- perhaps a better idea than a serial number? Don't forget the liners as somewhere to stamp things -- though again, some of your knives may not have liners.

I would recommend a simple certificate -- something the size of an index card, classy, printed on some really nice heavy paper - look at the Chris Reeve certificates to see the sort of thing I mean (only nicer). Date completed, pattern, materials, measurements, special customizations, that sort of thing.

-- Dwight
 
I like to see the maker's name on the tang, with the steel type on the other side.

I don't really care one way or the other about serial numbers, but I think a good spot to put them is the inside liner (uncovered by the scale). This way it remains visible (if you know where to look) without cluttering the look of the knife.

- Christian
 
Lots of great advice being received in this thread, which is appreciated.

I like a makers mark that is rather small and simple. Something with the makers name and location is ideal. Logos and symbols are too cryptic, at least over time.

I think some have really cool yet simple logos like Don Hanson III whereas others are too busy, especially for slip joints.

I gave him some advice.... :eek::confused::D

I hope I didn't ruin all the fun for him.......:D

Good luck Josh, look forward to seeing your knives. - :thumbup:

TA

No, there is plenty of fun left to be had. I can't decide what I enjoy more, the research and learning or the hands on application of what I've read about:D

Do NOT put anything on the bolsters.

Some makers like to put year made on their knives -- perhaps a better idea than a serial number?

I would recommend a simple certificate -- something the size of an index card, classy, printed on some really nice heavy paper.

-- Dwight

I think the only time I'd do something on the bolster would be if it were a commemorative number, such as my 100th knife (if I can hack it that long). Edited to add that this would be engraved into the bolster not etched or stamped. It would have to suit the knife and be tasteful.

I was thinking of incorporating the year into my serial number that way it'd give a little more info than just a sequential number (i.e. 10-002 or something similar to denote 2010 and knife #2).

A common theme here is the use of a classy certificate, which is often recommended.

Dang. I opened this thread thinking it was about bourbon.

I thought of that as I wrote the title:eek:;)

Thanks again for all the feedback:thumbup:
 
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