Makeshift Anvil

Maqua

Maqua

Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
2,396
I set out Friday in search of some carbon steel scrap pipe for a forge, because what I was planning to use didn't pan out, when I stumbled onto what may be the perfect makeshift anvil. It is some kind of coupling I guess used in heavy lifting with cranes. A similar piece hade "4340-6" stamped into it, so I'm assuming this hunk of steel is forged 4340?

It weighs 194 lbs, I can still move it around, pick it up, etc., without too much strain, and it has a good clear ring, sharp edges, and great hammer rebound. I also found all the scrap pipe and steel I could ever want, the yard even cuts to size for a nominal fee. The anvil cost $64.

Here's some pics:
anvil.jpg

anvil2.jpg
 
The scrapyard told me it weighs 194 pounds, but they wrote 180 on the receipt. My gut feel, ahem, is that it is closer to 194.:D
 
Must sound like a bell while swinging on it. nice plat surface to work on. I tried some simple forging in a coal fire but I only had a sledge hammer head to use as an anvil. That thing you have looks perfect. Good luck and congrats on such a killer find.
 
Congratulations, man - nice score! I'm setting up a "primitive" style forge, and I'll definitely be looking for something like that to use as an improvised anvil. That thing looks really user friendly!
 
A heavy crane coupling is probably hardened to some extent, and should make a great anvil. When one side gets too dinged up, turn it over.

To deaden the ring some,duct tape cardboard to the sides and end to securely close off the openings.Wrap the anvil sides and end with saran wrap first.Tape off the bottom hole,too. Squirt a can of Great Stuff in the top hole. let it swell up and fill the void.When cured, take off the cardboard,trim the surface with a knife as needed,and paint it . It should attenuate the sound a lot.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
A heavy crane coupling is probably hardened to some extent, and should make a great anvil. When one side gets too dinged up, turn it over.

To deaden the ring some,duct tape cardboard to the sides and end to securely close off the openings.Wrap the anvil sides and end with saran wrap first.Tape off the bottom hole,too. Squirt a can of Great Stuff in the top hole. let it swell up and fill the void.When cured, take off the cardboard,trim the surface with a knife as needed,and paint it . It should attenuate the sound a lot.
Stacy
Click to expand...

That sounds like a plan....Many Thanks!:thumbup:
 
If you do not like the spring of the opened end see if you can get a piece to stuff inside and weld the end up. It will increase the weight and deaden the ring a bit too.

Chuck
 
I would just find a piece of heavy walled square tubing that fit the pin holes with maybe a bit of grinding on the corners and cut it about a 1/8 short on both ends weld it up filling the voids and grind the weld flush. Then you would have a hardy hole. Great score
 
Keithcellini said:
Have you tried it yet??
Click to expand...

I'm still trying to figure out my forge situation, but fully intend to seal up the empty spaces with the foam and make a base for it this weekend. It doesn't ring very badly, but my neighbors would probably appreciate it if I could dampen it down as much as possible.

Also, I've got some W-1 from use-enco on the way. Grand total for 72"@.500 diameter was $16. :thumbup:
 
Keithcellini said:
I wonder if it would work if you blocked it iff and filled the cavity with that expanding foam??
Click to expand...

I'll probably kick things off with the anvil as-is, and if the noise is bad then I'll seal it up with the foam. It's a serious lump of steel any way you look at it. I pretty much just need the forge and base, some quenching oil and a pan and I'm ready to rock-n-roll. A digital thermocouple or soemthing might be nice to keep an eye on the heats.
 
find a large chunk of wood and cut it to shape so it has a tongue that fits in the slot, stand it upright with the lifting part on top and cut it off with a oxy torch bolt the whole lot througho the wood with the existing holes in the side. thats how i'd do it anyway. cool find mate:thumbup: don't ya love improvising your own tools etc.:)
 
If you could, make a stand so that it can be flipped with the round side up for drawing out bars of thicker steel(like billets), and then flip it back over for working on the flats.
 
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