Making a forge, question

V

vikingGoalie

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Aug 20, 2019
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https://imgur.com/a/QnPhSnR

So I think my mistake was that I followed the manufacturer directions. They said the ratio on kastolite to water was 10lbs to 1.8lbs of water. I used a kitchen scale and was very precise.

This resulted in a mix that was like wet sand and it would pack but it wasn't gonna pour like concrete. But I decided to trust that the manufacturer knew their product.

I have 2 inches of kaowool between the shell and the kastolite. I used a board that fit between the center form and Kaowool and tapped the mix down aggressively. It looked like it packed in fine. I put a bag over it with a wet towel for a couple of days. Today, day 3, I get the form out and roll it over and discover that I shouldn't have taken the form out, sigh. Basically the underside of my form for the ribbon burner is devoid of kastolite. Insert sweat words here.

So the kastolite is very solid, except the end where it didn't have enough (used 30 lbs).

My question is best approach for finishing this. Can I just mix up more kastolite and trowel it on? Or would I get better results trying to get a form back in this (which will be tricky). Kinda bummed but I'm determined to make this work, any suggestions are welcome
 
You can make it wetter. Vibration also helps a LOT. Kast-o-Lite is not really a pourable product.

Suggestions:
1) Add 50% more water
2) Add the mix a little at a time and tamp down and vibrate.
3) Vibrate the heck out of the mold after it is filled.

A hammer drill with a 1/2" dowel in the chuck will work for vibration. Another tool that can be used is a demo/reciprocating saw with no blade in it. At the minimum you should be whacking the mold with a rubber mallet.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You can make it wetter. Vibration also helps a LOT. Kast-o-Lite is not really a pourable product.

Suggestions:
1) Add 50% more water
2) Add the mix a little at a time and tamp down and vibrate.
3) Vibrate the heck out of the mold after it is filled.

A hammer drill with a 1/2" dowel in the chuck will work for vibration. Another tool that can be used is a demo/reciprocating saw with no blade in it. At the minimum you should be whacking the mold with a rubber mallet.
Click to expand...
thx Stacy, of course the videos i've watched they just pour it in no fuss no bother... lesson learned.
you think i can salvage this? would it be bad to just trowel in the rest? I'll have to do it in stages due to gravity but if I don't have to start all over again that would be great.

I will start over if patching this up is a bad option, just the idea of chiseling out 30 lbs of kastolite doesn't sound like a good time lol ;)
 
Patch it up and see how it goes. Wet all surface well before applying the new refractory. Make the new stuff a bit wetter so it penetrates and doesn't suck itself dry.
People often expect Kast-o-Lite to be smooth like a concrete floor. It normally has a rough grain surface. You can surface it with something like satanite to make it smoother, but there is no need.
 
Is there a way to rotate the forge so the affected area is at bottom to make it easier for Kast-o-Lite to stay in place while drying?
 
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