Making a Knife Handle with a Metal Ferrule

M

me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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I have an old knife blade that I'd like to rehandle in it's original form. It was originally a wooden handle with a metal collar/ferrule where the blade entered the handle. Over the years, water caused the handle to rot and the blade became loose to the point it was dangerous. I have only the most basic idea how to go about this, and don't really see many knives made this way. Does or did anyone use this style of handle? The tang is about 2.5" long overall and about 0.075" thick. Width is about 5/8" from edge to spine side of the tang, and steps down to a rat-tail about 1/4" wide after the first 3/4" of length.
 
I've made some knives using that method. What would you like to know?
 
It is a stick tang.

You make a handle with a hole to fit over the tang.
You shape the handle leaving the front round or oval (depending on the ferrule shape).
You either use the old ferrule or make a new one to fit tight on the end of the handle.
You epoxy the handle and ferrule on the tang.
There is usually one pin going through the handle and tang about 1.2-2" back from the front end. The easiest way to install the pin is after the epoxy is cured, drill the hole with a 1/8" carbide bit and install a 1/8" brass or steel pin. Peen the ends flush and file smooth.
Sand the handle to its final finish and give a coat of varnish if that is your plan.
 
I've done that. I used copper sheet and soldered it together to form the ferrule.
Otherwise they are just like any other hidden tang
 
You can use copper pipe to make the ferrules as well. If it needs to be shaped or enlarged, it is easy to do with annealed copper. The copper also hammers well with a polished ball peen hammer and takes a nice, dimpled finish. The hammering also stretches the copper tube and is how to bring it up to a perfect fit.

TIPS-
You want to use Type K copper pipe. It is much thicker than regular plumbing pipe from the hardware store. I buy it in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" for making ferrules and collars as well as Japanese fittings.

To put a front on a ferrule and make a cap from it use copper sheet and hard silver solder them together.

To anneal copper, heat it to a dull red and quench in room temp water. It will be softened.
As you hammer it, it will work-harden and need the annealing repeated many times.

Once the shaping is complete, soak in pickle (Ph-Down solution) and scrub clean. Brighten with 0000 steel wool or polish as desired.
The freshly cleaned and polished copper will be bright golden color. That won't last long though, and will oxidize to a dull red-brown.
For a dark Japanese metal look, soak te finished and cleaned fitting in Livers of Sulfur for a good while.
For an ancient, weathered look, soak in Verdigris.
 
It occurs to me i actually have examples of both of these approaches lying around. Copper pipe, without front, and sheet copper with front. (i misaligned the solder seam on the sheet one, and decided to just roll with it)
SVIAJfJ.jpg
sE4Ek1w.jpg
 
I use titanium tubing for the ferrule, it's completely inert
 
Alex, what type of solder did you do the seam with?

I used to use medium silver solder, but found that coper solders worked better on crafts and fittings.
Try a silver-phosphorous copper brazing rod. Get the type with 5% silver, about the same phosphorus, and 90% copper. Works just like hard silver solder. Makes a strong joint that is a good color match. Fills gaps well.
 
I was thinking of a copper ferrule that was colored black like one does rivets. I’ll just have to try a few and see how they go.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Alex, what type of solder did you do the seam with?

I used to use medium silver solder, but found that coper solders worked better on crafts and fittings.
Try a silver-phosphorous copper brazing rod. Get the type with 5% silver, about the same phosphorus, and 90% copper. Works just like hard silver solder. Makes a strong joint that is a good color match. Fills gaps well.
Click to expand...
I think i might have used medium silver solder. Obviously i need to improve my join preparation
 
Alex Topfer said:
It occurs to me i actually have examples of both of these approaches lying around. Copper pipe, without front, and sheet copper with front. (i misaligned the solder seam on the sheet one, and decided to just roll with it)
SVIAJfJ.jpg
sE4Ek1w.jpg
Click to expand...

What function does the ferrule serve in the case of the first picture? Just compresson?

Stromeng does there leuku's exactly like that, with the top exposed.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
What function does the ferrule serve in the case of the first picture? Just compresson?
Click to expand...
Mostly decorative for that handle
For something like a chisel or a lathe tool you assemble the ferrule on the handle so it compresses the wood, that holds the handle on without glue and helps prevent the handle splitting during use. That also allows you to replace the handle easily when it wears out
You could assemble a kitchen knife that way, Japanese knife makers do
 
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