Making a knife ( lend a hand?)

A

armlessbandit

BANNED
Joined
Sep 8, 2002
Messages
247
hi everyone, im new to this and im not even doing the whole thing by myself, yep you heard me, im making a blade and im trying to find some way for me to get it heat treated, because i dont have a kiln and i dont really want to go buy one!

yea. anyways, im making a knife that i can use when im outdoors, im basing it off of the puma whitehunter http://pumaknives.com/images/116375_H.gif

but im wanting to make some changes,,,,,,


there will be no jagged things on the back near the top of the handle.
and, near the swang, on the rear im making a hook shape which is sharpened for skinning game (maybe, im not sure if i will need it)

and also, how can i make the serrated edge near the bottom of the blade itself? i have acces to an angle grinder, disk table grinder, planers tablesaws bandsaws lots of files and hand tools.


and, what kind of steel would you recommend?

and for the finger guard in the picture, how can i make something like that?
and does anyone know where i can get some plans for a kiln?

i live in canada, so HA


heh, thanks for your time





----------aaron :cool: :D ;) :p :o :( :)
 
Hello Armless!
You can buy all the materials you need from several knife making supply companies. I'll post some links at the bottom of my post.
Those jagged things on the back near the handle are traction grooves for the thumb. I'd suggest putting them on your blade. They're good when alot of pressure is needed towards the tip of the blade. They can be made with a checkering file or a bastard file or a dremel moto tool and a cutting disc. To make the guard just decide on the material you want, I would suggest some 3/8" thick 416 stainless. Cut a chunk to rough size and mark and cut a slot in it to fit the blade. Then use a file to clean up the cut and make it fit the blade as tight as possible. Once the fit is right, slip it on and clamp it, then drill some holes for pins. I've had good luck with 3/32" pins. The pins should be the same material as the guard. Slightly counter sink the pin holes.
The serrations on that blade look more like saw teeth to me. I would cut them with a checkering file. If you want to do serrations, use two round files of different diameters. Make a small cut then a large one then a small one and continue till you have the amount of serrations you want. It's not easy to get them right though so it might be something you would want to pass on for your fist knife.
As far as what steel to use I'd suggest s30v or 440c if you want to go stainless. If you want carbon, try L6, it's great for big blades. Paul Bos heat treats stainless blades at a very reasonable price and includes cryo quenching in the price. If you decide to go with him email me and I'll give you his address. Well, if you have anymore questions, ask away, thats what Shop Talk is for.
Good luck on the project!
http://www.knifeandgun.com/Catalog.htm
http://www.jantzsupply.com/
http://www.knifesupplies.com/html/index.htm
http://www.popsknifesupplies.com/grinder.html
http://www.texasknife.com/TKS_Mainframe.htm
http://www.riversidemachine.net/
http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades.html
http://www.crucibleservice.com/bblist.cfm
 
S30v is very hard to work with I would go with 440C or ATS 34 for starts and the work up to the high grade stuff.Just my 2 cents worth;)
 
thanks michael, thanks nate


and for the handle, i was thinking deer or moose antler, got any suggestions? ok ill ditch the serrations :D

and, how do i engrave my name into the blade?
 
The knife in the pic you posted the link to is full tang so you'd have to find some antler or stag bone scales large enough for it.One of the links I posted is to a company called Universal Agencies, they have some excellent stag bone, check em out. Stag and bone is nice looking but for a knife you intend on using alot and possibly hard I'd recommend something a little tougher like micarta or g10 or even dymondwood. Ugh, I said a cuss word!:eek: Lol, some of these knife nuts here think dymondwood is garbage but it's as tough as it gets and comes in a myriad of colors and isn't very expensive. It's not hard to work either.
As far as engraving your name you'll either have to buy an engraving machine which is a $4-500 investment or find someone with a kind and generous heart, like me :), that would do it for you. If you look around you might find someone in your town that can do it at a nominal cost if not free. Most trophy shops won't engrave hardened steel though.
Best advice I can give you is be patient and if something isn't going right, set it aside and come back another day, you'll get it right eventually.
 
thanks michael ur so kind u can send me ur engraver at ,..,.,,










:D


poopo i keep clicking new thread instead of reply :D
 
I cannot afford a etching machine so I bought Custom made stamps
they can make them any style you want or any logo you want
if you can draw it they can do it they also have artist who can make somthing up for you.I got mine from Evers stamps.The one good thing about a stamp they last and you don't have to buy stencils you can get them for around a 100 dollars.;)
 
Call some Jewelry stores in your area. One of them will engrave your name on it. They have diamond stylus', pantographic engraving machines, so metal hardness is not an issue.
 
ok what about heat treating,,,,,,,,,,,,,, my person that was gonna do it might back out, do i hafta heat treat a blade?




and if i hafta does anyone have plans fer one?







haha i made an axe out of armor plating and i juswt chopped some steel beams :D







anyone need an axe? guarenteed not to dull

50000 DOOlla lol just kiddin
 
I feel I was well advised to start with O1 tool steel. I did and am glad I did. I now am working in stainless but will always love the O1 and will, I hope, go back to it at times. It has worked well for me in my few efforts to make knives. The O1 is easy to grind and heat treat by comparison and holds a real buisiness edge. I think O1 is a good choice for the first, the last and knives in between.

RL
 
Originally posted by L6steel
Stag and bone is nice looking but for a knife you intend on using alot and possibly hard I'd recommend something a little tougher like micarta or g10 or even dymondwood. Ugh, I said a cuss word!:eek: Lol, some of these knife nuts here think dymondwood is garbage but it's as tough as it gets and comes in a myriad of colors and isn't very expensive. It's not hard to work either.
Click to expand...

Michael,
You need to watch your language on these here forums! :) I am one of those that don't much care for dymondwood. To be a little sarcastic, I really like that green and red stuff!:barf: Now don't go recommending "that stuff" to the new guys, they don't know any better and will think its OK to use! LOL!

C Wilkins
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top