Making a Kydex Sheath?

[Sporkman]

I'm about to go camping with my M-43 for the first time. I realize that the traditional leather sheath is not the greatest sheath for outdoors use, in fact I'm not a big fan of leather sheaths in general (except for looks).

I'm wondering if anyone here has made their own Kydex sheath?

If so, how do you compensate for the fact that the blade is curved and oddly shaped (comparatively). Does it "Lock in" like most Kydex sheaths, or do you need another way to secure it (locking bar, snap strap, etc?)

What thickness of Kydex do you recommend?

 

[shortwinger]

A friend of mine has a kydex press and he makes sheaths for guns and knives. The kukri part is a stumper. The only real issue is that the kydex forms around the blade and the base of the blade is much thinner than the belly. Therefore, the blade fits perfectly but will not come out.

I have thought of a way or two around it but it is very labor intensive.

1. Carve a duplicate kukri from wood and make the entire blade as wide at the belly. It will still lock in place and the widest part of the blade will be able to come out of the sheath. Obviously that will take some time and skill but it could be roughly done so I don't think you would have to be a master craftsman. The part that may be harder is that you would have to carve the handle a bit more accurately to get it to lock in place.

2. Carve/make an insert that can be taped to the blade to add the some width at the base. Basically doing what was done above except you would use the actual blade. The seems easier on the surface and eliminates the part about getting the handle correct.

You could also make the kind that has the slit in the top. (I hate that way) I like the CS kukri secure-ex sheath, all they do is make the entire sheath the same width (as described in #1) and it is very secure and does not rattle at all. Plus it is light, tuff, impervious to weather, has a drain hole and does not retain moisture at all. Probably the best practical all around kukri sheath made. If you could find someone to do that, they will have made the much talked about "better mouse trap!"

Bill
Virginia

 

[Sporkman]

A friend of mine has a kydex press and he makes sheaths for guns and knives. The kukri part is a stumper. The only real issue is that the kydex forms around the blade and the base of the blade is much thinner than the belly. Therefore, the blade fits perfectly but will not come out.

I have thought of a way or two around it but it is very labor intensive.

1. Carve a duplicate kukri from wood and make the entire blade as wide at the belly. It will still lock in place and the widest part of the blade will be able to come out of the sheath. Obviously that will take some time and skill but it could be roughly done so I don't think you would have to be a master craftsman. The part that may be harder is that you would have to carve the handle a bit more accurately to get it to lock in place.

2. Carve/make an insert that can be taped to the blade to add the some width at the base. Basically doing what was done above except you would use the actual blade. The seems easier on the surface and eliminates the part about getting the handle correct.

You could also make the kind that has the slit in the top. (I hate that way) I like the CS kukri secure-ex sheath, all they do is make the entire sheath the same width (as described in #1) and it is very secure and does not rattle at all. Plus it is light, tuff, impervious to weather, has a drain hole and does not retain moisture at all. Probably the best practical all around kukri sheath made. If you could find someone to do that, they will have made the much talked about "better mouse trap!"

Bill
Virginia

Yeah, I was wondering about emulating the CS "Gurkha Kukri" style sheath by taking some carboard and folding it over the edge so it's roughly the same width while it goes into the press. I don't know if that would hold though.

I saw one that used a locking bar and put it through the Cho, and that seems like it would work well, but it'd be nice to have it lock into place like with most kydex sheathes.

Ah well, maybe I'll look around at the next gun show I go to and see if there are any kydex sheath makers. Thanks for the input.

 

[Kiah]

Having an open spine from the widest point up is the best way to go IMO. Keep the opening at the handle the same width as the spine and you don't need any other retention method and can draw the blade with a shorter movement than a full sheath. Use .093 or even .125 for the best lock, but .080 is fine. Locking pins, button straps, etc. are pointless if you do it right and just get in the way. See the Condor in my sig for an example.

If you do wanna go with a full sheath, cut spacers to fill in the narrow areas and tape them in place. Spacers can be made from Kydex scraps glued together for thickness if you don't have anything else. Plywood is probably better.

Also, fill the notches and tape the grooves to prevent catching and rubbing.