Making a trainer knife - need steel suggestions

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

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I am going to be making some trainer knives, a non-sharpened blunt version of a popular model of mine. What would be the best steel?

I would prefer a stainless and won't be heat treating the "knife," any suggestions?

Obviously edge holding isn't a concern but I am looking for something affordable, easy to work with and hopefully rust-free.
 
I would think 410, 416, or 303 if you just want it to not rust. however, depending on the size that you need, they might not be practical as far as cost goes.
 
Id say anything in the 3xx or 4xx series as the can be had from metal supply houses cheaply. Generally speaking though you might have to invest in a large piece because the cost savings normally come at the cost of having to buy a substantial amount(ie multiple sq feet).
 
Some additional things to consider with training knives - round or soften the edges. I've been cut with training blades before (we do edge training often). If they're going to be doing blade on blade training (I know, I know) - the potential for knicks to form on the blade is there too - make sure it's easy to maintain in that regard. Try to make it so the carry system matches the real blade - using the same sheat for live and trainer is cool, though I'm partial to a brightly colored kydex that matches the handle material (also bright) so I know if I have the trainer or the live knife on me).
 
thegeek574 said:
I would think 410, 416, or 303 if you just want it to not rust. however, depending on the size that you need, they might not be practical as far as cost goes.
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That was pretty much my thinking and yes it isn't cheap stuff! Thanks!

tom1417 said:
Id say anything in the 3xx or 4xx series as the can be had from metal supply houses cheaply. Generally speaking though you might have to invest in a large piece because the cost savings normally come at the cost of having to buy a substantial amount(ie multiple sq feet).
Click to expand...
I have to look into a big piece, I may be making a bunch of them. Thanks!

KaosX said:
Some additional things to consider with training knives - round or soften the edges. I've been cut with training blades before (we do edge training often). If they're going to be doing blade on blade training (I know, I know) - the potential for knicks to form on the blade is there too - make sure it's easy to maintain in that regard. Try to make it so the carry system matches the real blade - using the same sheat for live and trainer is cool, though I'm partial to a brightly colored kydex that matches the handle material (also bright) so I know if I have the trainer or the live knife on me).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great tips. I'm with you on everything even down to a different colored bright sheath. Much appreciated!
 
Maybe you should even think about getting them laser cut (or waterjet) to cut the labor cost as well. It is only a trainer after all ;)

Kaleb
 
My local waterjet place charges me $20 for t-6 and most 6"ish designs for trainers I've had made.
 
Why not use aluminum, T-6? Are you wanting the weight to be the same as the real knife?
 
foxx said:
Why not use aluminum, T-6? Are you wanting the weight to be the same as the real knife?
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Aluminum was a consideration but I need the weight to be about the same. I still need to look into it more, maybe the lack of bevels and holes would make the weight close.

Thanks!
 
If there will be any blade on blade fighting with the trainers, aluminium edges nick worse than steel, and even if you use steel, I'd advocate for something a little harder than dead soft mild steel. The burr that can form on an edge from 2 trainer blades hitting each other can leave a surprisingly bloody cut for as shallow as it is. Theatrical and stunt knives and swords are often carbon steel tempered soft enough not to shatter, but hard enough to not dent easily
 
Why not use micarta for the blades. It is fairly heavy, it wont chip or get burs. you can get it pretty cheap to, if you order the nat can from a plastics supplier.
 
Mahoney said:
If there will be any blade on blade fighting with the trainers, aluminium edges nick worse than steel, and even if you use steel, I'd advocate for something a little harder than dead soft mild steel. The burr that can form on an edge from 2 trainer blades hitting each other can leave a surprisingly bloody cut for as shallow as it is. Theatrical and stunt knives and swords are often carbon steel tempered soft enough not to shatter, but hard enough to not dent easily
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Great point! I hadn't thought about a softer steel forming burrs during training. Thanks!

BenR.T. said:
Why not use micarta for the blades. It is fairly heavy, it wont chip or get burs. you can get it pretty cheap to, if you order the nat can from a plastics supplier.
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Thanks! I have a jade green G10 tanto that I really like.
 
When you decide what you want let me know. If I have some extra scrap, which I am sure I do, and you can send a cad file I'll hook you up.

EDIT: Heck I can make you a few different materials if you like. Then you can decide easier.

P.S. This is not an offer to sell my services just an offer to help out free of charge.
 
Carl_First_Timer said:
When you decide what you want let me know. If I have some extra scrap, which I am sure I do, and you can send a cad file I'll hook you up.

EDIT: Heck I can make you a few different materials if you like. Then you can decide easier.

P.S. This is not an offer to sell my services just an offer to help out free of charge.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I really appreciate the offer! :D

It's things like this that makes Bladeforums rock! :cool:
 
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