Making an axe useful again

G

GenerallyAwsomeDude

Joined
Dec 12, 2010
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Hey I have this old, forged, 4 pound, double bit axehead that I found. I never really have any axes and was looking to make this one useful again. What would you guys recommend on doing to it?? I was thinking about putting 36 inch hickory handle on it and taking the rust off then convexing the edge. Sorry, I have no pics, but its pretty much just all rusty. Thanks,

-Josh
 
Soak it up in vinegar, it will take the rust off. Leave it covered for about a week then scrub it off with a hard fiber brush.

Regards

Robin
 
I put the head and vinegar in a plastic container so it completely covers the head, the head should not be flat on a flat bottom, add a couple small rocks to lift it. With summer temps it takes 24 hours to and the rust brushes right off. In cooler temps 2 days. I use a wire brush and water hose. you should see the cutting edges are black. this is the hardened steel. I clean up the inside with a toothbrush and screwdriver. then I sand it to get the surface I want on the axe, etc. someone can add a link to the youtube video of the forest service dude showing how to properly rehandle. Might be better to buy a handle online and pay a bit more. the hardware store handles are the lowest grade.

If there is still some of the old handle in your head get it out before the vinegar soak.
 
I cleaned it off and everything, I just cant seem to get a edge on it.:grumpy: I am using sandpaper, a scotch brite, and a mousepad. I don't know what I am doing wrong. It works on knives, why not axes?!?:(
 
GenerallyAwsomeDude said:
I cleaned it off and everything, I just cant seem to get a edge on it.:grumpy: I am using sandpaper, a scotch brite, and a mousepad. I don't know what I am doing wrong. It works on knives, why not axes?!?:(
Click to expand...

Little bit of a different beast between an old double bit axe head and a knife edge.
 
+1 for the file. You are probably not removing enough material. Work the edge with the file until you get a burr on both sides and then switch to the sandpaper.


Ookami
 
So if you want to get that old girl cleaned up, which sounds like you have, which is good. Vinegar as stated is an option, along with other means as well. Angle grinder with hard wire wheel is another - quicker, but need a ventalated area - all that rust and metal thrown into the air isn't too good for the lungs. Same if you happen to use a grinder wheel - the old timers in the axe shops that were on sharpening detail unfortunately didn't last long in life - pretty much all died early.

Too sharpen that thing, you will need to secure it down to your work bench, grab some WD40, file of your choosing(I use a Nicholson), and get mentally prepared to be there awhile. Also get ready for a workout for your wrists and forearms if you aren't a regular at this.

Next step then is how to properly file it for a correct axe edge. Just dont go hog wild on it, you need to have the correct angle when finished. Remember you dont want it so it is wedge like, and you dont want it too then at the bit edge. If you have never done it I would tell you to get some learning in on an old beater axe head. Also the WD40 comes in handy to spray not only the axe head clean, but also your file clean of debris.

The angle of your bit for correct sharpening will depend on who you talk to, what book you reference, etc. In my experience, you just know when it is right, and depending on the axe head itself, its makeup, its metal quality, etc, the angle might not always be the same for every single axe head. And more importantly, this is ok. They wont always be the same. You have to look at it closely, and after a couple times you can tell when it is done correctly. You can then put the sharpness to it in a variety of ways. Lots of guys use sandpaper, belts, etc. I just keep using a finer and finer stone until I am happy. The sharpest one I ever got, I got done, and took my thumb and pointer finger and pinched the bit lightly and ran my fingers across it, and proceeded to slice my thumb real good. Trust me, you will only do that once.

Well happy "bringing an axe back to life" project to you. It is a rewarding feeling when done. Next step is then to get outside and go use that baby for 12 hours a day, non stop, except for lunch.

Good luck!
 
I would use a file card to clean your file and I would never use WD40 or any other oil when filing. As oil is a lubricant, it can cause the file to slip and you may end up injuring your hand. An old trick to keep your file clean is to apply chalk beforhand.


Ookami
 
I will again say that this is not a good idea, gloves or no gloves. If you slip, you might not only smash your knuckles into the blade, you might also hit the heel or toe of the bit with the inside of your arm.
I am not making this up, in the workshop where my father worked, some of the workers wanted to mock an apprentice and told him to oil his file to keep it from rusting. The apprentice did as he was told and when he wanted to proceed with his work, he slipped and ripped open his arm on the workpiece.

Aside from that, I don't understand, why ppl always have to spray everything with WD-40. It is useful to make things move again, to clean and remove rust. It is sub par for lubrication, rust prevention and a host of other things it is regularly used for. Your skin will get chapped with repeated exposure, which ppl can attest to who use it as a cutting oil for handrubbed blade finishes. Also, I hate to see it getting used outdoors as a lubricant for saws or knives (batoning) because it contains solvents and other nasty stuff that should not be sprayed around in the woods.


Ookami
 
Perhaps I have caused some confusion. In using WD40 while sharpening, it always occurs that you get build up of debris. I will use the WD40 and spary the axe head, and then use a cloth to remove said debris from the head. If needed, I will WD40 my file, then tap the file on my workbench to also remove debris, then wipe it down as well. Therefore when I restart, the file and head are not saturated in WD40, but rather cleaned from debris and ready to proceed. Gloves yes are needed because of the situation at hand, as it is easy to slip while sharpening, with or without lubricant. WD40 is not a miracel by any stretch, but yet does have its many uses and I product I have had a lot of luck with not only with maintaining my collection, but also in just about anything else garage/auto/tool related when it comes to metal and protection. Just one guys thoughts.
 
If you wipe it off, it's ok, I guess.

But since the debris from filing steel isn't greasy or anything, tapping your file will usually be enough to get out debris while filing. I could even imagine that WD-40 and the filings will form a suspension, actually making it harder to get out the debris by tapping.

After you're done, a file card, which is designed solely for this purpose, will do a good job of thoroughly cleaning your file. No oil needed; why would you constantly pay for WD-40 when all you really need is ~5 bucks for a file card that will last you virtually forever.


Ookami
 
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