Making custom handles for MULE knife

kadinh

kadinh

Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
599
This is my idea of what I would like my MULE to look like when I'm done with it (obviously not to scale):

mule2.jpg


This is my question for anybody who has ever done any knife assembling or modification:

I have the new M390 version and i would like to use 1/4" mosaic pins in the handle, but the holes are only 3/8" and 3/16" from what i understand. Would it be possible to drill the 3/16" size holes and make them larger to accommodate the 1/4" pins?

Also, anybody have any ideas on how I can adjust the style of the handle to make it "better"? I really like the M390 steel so far; it came very sharp and it performs like M4, but is stainless! I think I would only chose S90V over the M390/M4.
 
kadinh said:
This is my idea of what I would like my MULE to look like when I'm done with it (obviously not to scale):

This is my question for anybody who has ever done any knife assembling or modification:

I have the new M390 version and i would like to use 1/4" mosaic pins in the handle, but the holes are only 3/8" and 3/16" from what i understand. Would it be possible to drill the 3/16" size holes and make them larger to accommodate the 1/4" pins?

Also, anybody have any ideas on how I can adjust the style of the handle to make it "better"? I really like the M390 steel so far; it came very sharp and it performs like M4, but is stainless! I think I would only chose S90V over the M390/M4.
Click to expand...

If you own a drill and the correct size bits you can make the holes larger of course. Keep in mind, you would possibly compromise the strength of the steel handle (possibly). It's much easier to work around and use pins, thong tube, and corby bolts as desired that fall within the existing holes.
 
thanks for the suggestions.

I'm thinking that moving from 3/16" to 1/4" wont be that big of a jump. I might end up using only 2 pins and a lanyard tube on the butt end. And I have access to a drill press and the bits. The hardest part is trying to find the materials that will fit the handle for its size by just shopping online; it would be much easier if I could go to a store and look at the parts in front of me.
 
ANOTHER THING:

Does anybody have any experience with using corian for handles instead of micarta or G10?
 
As far as finding the optimal thickness for handle material, I'd recommend using 1/16" spacers and 1/4" handle slabs. That will provide a clean liner look as well as provide a thick enough handle without being too uncomfortable.
kadinh said:
ANOTHER THING:

Does anybody have any experience with using corian for handles instead of micarta or G10?
Click to expand...

Corian is not that good, it can break and crack. I'd stick with G10, stabilized wood, Micarta, bone, or horn. A Corian onlay would look alright though, I wouldn't make the entire thing out of it though.
 
@revdev thanks a lot for your help. I think I just need to jump in and start doing it. I ordered the blue g10, pins, and liners. I think I'm going to go for white corian for the spacer. I'll let everyone know when it's done and show it off.
 
i know a couple of people who use nenohi nenox kitchen knives with corian handle everyday professionaly, no problem. where did you get that idea rev ? corian will be way tougher than bone or horn ... by far. do you know what it was originaly used for ?
 
I don't think there'd be any problems with using corian. It'd be tougher than any of the natural materials, including woods like ironwood which has been used unstabilized on tons of knives.
 
pwet said:
i know a couple of people who use nenohi nenox kitchen knives with corian handle everyday professionaly, no problem. where did you get that idea rev ? corian will be way tougher than bone or horn ... by far. do you know what it was originaly used for ?
Click to expand...

Kitchen knives are not used in EDC tasks the way a fixed blade would be. My brother is a professional chef (over 20 years now), heavy knives cause fatigue quick and Corian is heavier than G10 (if you measured the same size piece of each material). Corian is now primarily used for counter tops, not sure what the original purpose was. Natural matierials are porous to some extent and allow for a better bond between the adhesive and the steel. There were some knifemakers and tinkerers alike on here that reported negative experiences with using Corian. I gues it all depends on a lot of factors, just would not be my first choice based on weight alone.
 
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