making easier guards

Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Messages
93
What are easier ways to make a guard? It doesn't have to look good. I was thinking of making a double sided guard like the Cold Steel Leatherneck. There's a vertical CNC mill and welder at my makerspace.

Here's the method for making a guard that I see in videos.
1. Drill a slot.
2. Mill the slot that's narrower than the tang.
3. Mill at a depth of 95% of the guard's thickness. Make this part of the slot wider than the tang.
4. File to make the slot's corners.
5. Shape the outside of the guard.
6. Add guard to knife.
7. Possibly solder.

I think I'd rivet the guard.

questions
1. Can I skip step 4?
2. Can I weld parts to make the guard?
3. Can I make a 2 piece guard that's riveted like handle slabs?
4. Instead of riveting, can I weld the guard to pins?
 
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i do not like the #3 in the top list, i like the sides of my guards to closely fit the tang along its entire length, for a tighter mechanical fit. and if you have a space there, there is the possibility the solder wont fill the gap.

if you weld the guard you will ruin the temper or hardness of some of the blade. but youn can weld the guard before its applied to the blade.
#4, which corners? on the guard or the knife ? not sure what you mean.
 
I once welded 304. It was cold close to the weld. I think the guard's pins could be welded. The KOA Boar Hunter has 2 guard pins. Riveting might be easier.
 
I once welded 304. It was cold close to the weld. I think the guard's pins could be welded. The KOA Boar Hunter has 2 guard pins. Riveting might be easier.
Why should you waste time to weld them ? And riveting is stronger then weld if done right .
Two guard pins ? Depends how is guard attached .Why would I use two pins on this guard ?Or why i should weld pin ? What benefits will be that ?
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I once welded 304. It was cold close to the weld. I think the guard's pins could be welded. The KOA Boar Hunter has 2 guard pins. Riveting might be easier.
They do that because it is faster and easier . If they use one pin they should make notch in tang, which is more complicated for a perfect fit .
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if you're going to weld it just weld the guard to the blade and leave the pins out. also when i've soldered guards i haven't bothered with pins, it seems to me that to break a well soldered guard you'll end up breaking the rest of the knife first.
rounding the tang instead of the inside corners of the guard would be easier, though i've never tried it explicitly.

order of shaping depends on the knife. you'll want to do some bits (likely the front) before attaching it, but there may be parts you need to finish afterwards.
 
if something doesn't have to look good, that is the easy way
 
that tip #3 is a real time saver. I've done a few guards and only that way. A mill would make it even easier, but a dremel with carbide is what I used. I like JB Weld to fill the cavity, which is a lot easier than soldering. I wouldn't use a pin to hold the guard on a hidden tang since you put a booby trap in the worst place if you want the knife to last
 
pinned guards is how they used to do various messers. provided you have enough tang, a well fitting guard, and an appropriate sized pin is it going to make that much difference?
 
I guess it depends on the design, ( but I'd ask; if the guard fits well, what need is there for a pin?
unnecessary stress risers are never good, imo
 
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