I want to make a small belt sheath out of concealex (have some scrap pieces kinkin' around) - but I'd like to cover it with some thin leather (got some nice pig skin, too) to make it a bit less obtrusive. Sometime back I came across someone who made leather covered kydex (concealex?) sheaths. I think we might have even exchanged e-mail. If you are out there old friend, would appreciate hearing from you. Or anyone who could offer advice on bonding leather to kydex/concealex. Will epoxy work? Any special way of preparing surface? Have lots of experience working with leather, but have only tried using the other stuff a few times: burned fingers and some success, though. Thanks in advance for any help!
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Making Leather-Covered Concealex Sheath?
- Thread starter maury
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
I line my trailing point sheaths with kydex in the blade area only. The sheaths are water formed around the handle with a kydex insert to prevent the tip of the blade penetrating the spine of the sheath. I glue the folded insert in place before stitching the sheath then waterform the finished product.
It is not necessary to protect the selvege strip along the stitched side of the folded sheath just the spine where the trailing point can damage the sheath.
It is not necessary to protect the selvege strip along the stitched side of the folded sheath just the spine where the trailing point can damage the sheath.
- Joined
- Oct 9, 1998
- Messages
- 1,767
I think Tanner's Bond Contact Cement would work fine for bonding plastic to leather. They sell it at Sheffields Knife Supply ( http://www.sheffieldsupply.com/ ). It doesnt seem to be that different from the usual DAP contact cement that I use. Maybe it's the same stuff. I made my first sheath today, and that's what I used to bond my leather together. The label says it works for other stuff too. I'm pretty sure plastic was on the list of things it could be used on.
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2000
- Messages
- 1,693
Maury- could you be thinking of Matt Draper aka Waxes Elequent? He used to do the work for Jerry Hossom, among others. Contact cement does work well for this job, just be sure everything is positioned properly because once it is together you can't remove it. Hope this helps.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 1999
- Messages
- 4,486
Cool thread.I was just talking to some guys about trying the thin leather over the kydex as the body for a NS throat and tipped sheath.It was suggested that I use the 3M spray contact cement.
I am curious about this myself.and I hope someone has the answer.
Bruce
I am curious about this myself.and I hope someone has the answer.
Bruce
- Joined
- Jul 14, 1999
- Messages
- 51
hy guys,
I've been making a few leather covered puukko sheaths. This is how i do it: i heat and fold the kydex around the knife and handle. By carefully trimming the kydex, my end product is a tight fitting kydex sheath with no overlapping ends (the 2 ends join at the backside of what's going to be the sheath. Then I just apply contact cement at the front side of the kydex sheath and glue the leather and kydex together (only the front side). Then i waterform the enitire sheath and let dry. After drying, i glue everything together, stitch up at the back of the sheath and finish everything... I'll look for some pics later today. Hope it helped, if not, don't hesitate asking...
I've been making a few leather covered puukko sheaths. This is how i do it: i heat and fold the kydex around the knife and handle. By carefully trimming the kydex, my end product is a tight fitting kydex sheath with no overlapping ends (the 2 ends join at the backside of what's going to be the sheath. Then I just apply contact cement at the front side of the kydex sheath and glue the leather and kydex together (only the front side). Then i waterform the enitire sheath and let dry. After drying, i glue everything together, stitch up at the back of the sheath and finish everything... I'll look for some pics later today. Hope it helped, if not, don't hesitate asking...