Making the Spine look even and clean...Help.

Outdoor Gear Dad

Outdoor Gear Dad

Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
211
So here is my process for full tang blade. I wrap the blade, paper towel and tape. Assemble / epoxy the handle to the tang, then profile the handle out, and belt shape it open contact wheels and use a scalloped belt to get it rough shaped. then I putt (still taped up) into a knife vise and start to hand sand the handle / tang. But when I am done, and take the tape off I have to go back and then try to match the spine of the blade to the tang. Make the surfaces even etc.....

Is there a better way to do this? How do y'all do this?
 
Pics? A picture of how it is turning out for you might prompt some suggestions.
 
1.Glue scales. Rough out shapes/swells on 10" wheel with 60 grit. Blade taped up of course.
Cut off tape covering spine ie only spine exposed on blade, finish spine from but to tip with 120 grit on wheel.

2. Move to slack platen scallop belts shape and finish 80-->180-->400 grit.

3. 400 grit on wheel, knock down proud pins and finish spine from but to tip.

4. Quick wet hand sand 400 grit to clean up.

5. To the finish preferred by wet sand and/or buff.
 
Use a layer of blue tape on each side of the blade leaving the spine exposed.

Then you can work the entire spine of the blade from tip to but at the same time.
 
Just tape the whole thing up and using a sharp blade in a carving motion cut away the "strip" covering the spine.
 
AVigil said:
Use a layer of blue tape on each side of the blade leaving the spine exposed.

Then you can work the entire spine of the blade from tip to but at the same time.
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Yeah I guess my problem then is in the knife vise...Its one of those vises that when you put the blade in there you cant actually access the spine of the blade.
 
Outdoor Gear Dad said:
Yeah I guess my problem then is in the knife vise...Its one of those vises that when you put the blade in there you cant actually access the spine of the blade.
Click to expand...

That is a reason I do not use that type of vise. I use a Stanley vise an it allows access to the spine and can be tilted in various directions.

Best $35 I ever spent.
 
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I don't get why you have any issues if your finishing up with a 8 inch or more contact wheel, tip to butt back and forth a few times..400 or more grit ..done. no tape needed..s-man said it step 3
 
You'll get better at not gouging the eff out of the spine at the scale transition. Boy, it is easy to do. I still do it from time to time.

Best bet then is you just have to transition it out gently out.
 
AVigil said:
That is a reason I do not use that type of vise. I use a Stanley vise an it allows access to the spine and can be tilted in various directions.

Best $35 I ever spent.
Click to expand...

Ordered, thanks for the tip! Hope it is sturdy enough for some good pressure while sanding.
 
FredyCro said:
Ordered, thanks for the tip! Hope it is sturdy enough for some good pressure while sanding.
Click to expand...

It locks up tight.

For sanding the bevel and flats I put a piece of flat stock in the jaws and then clamp the blade to the flat stock. Then you can sand and change angle as needed.
 
I hand sand my handles....and sometimes will take the handles up to 1000 grit which I am realizing is probably not needed at all. I just really want those burl handles to pop.

so basically I would need to just match my finishing grit on hand sanding to the grit on the belt and contact wheel to clean up the spine.
 
I think if you are rounding off your handles you could have different grit finishes on the handle and the spine. Not so if you handle is partially flush with the spine.
 
AVigil said:
He is hand sanding his handles
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Yep, buddy, I hand sand handles too, after 600 grit on the grinder. If I go to higher grit then 600 you are really just polishing the spine a little further what you've got good and flat and even already. Paper is always wrapped around a flat sanding stick. Bout the only handle material I'll take higher than 600 is ironwood. Not a lot of benny in going higher on most materials even burls. I use to though.
 
Yea, I misread your initial question....one thing is at this finishing point you can try lots of different options and find what works best for you. Your way past the point of screwing anything up.
 
Horsewright said:
Yep, buddy, I hand sand handles too, after 600 grit on the grinder. If I go to higher grit then 600 you are really just polishing the spine a little further what you've got good and flat and even already. Paper is always wrapped around a flat sanding stick. Bout the only handle material I'll take higher than 600 is ironwood. Not a lot of benny in going higher on most materials even burls. I use to though.
Click to expand...

Right, but his problem was how he was using the vise, not his grinder.

He got it figured out now it appears.
 
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