Making those nut holes in the handle

[milkyeye]

Hey folks, I got some new tools and want to try and make new handles for a BK9 and a Zombie Zomstro. I wanted to keep the same mounting method, but don't know how to make the nut holes, any special tool that does that?

 

[bladesmith3]

here is a link'
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/making-hex-head-holes-in-knife-handles.856229/

 

[milkyeye]

Thanks, good read. No easy answer for all materials though, I need a test piece, I think I would try the drill one size smaller and file the sides. I have some small flat edge files, may take a while though. They seem to have success with the hot bolt in micarta, I would use an arbor press. Wood maybe another story.

 

[LG&M]

In the past I have drilled a small hole,put the hardware in and marked it. Then removed it and went to work with a dremal tool.

 

[V84mystang]

I don’t have pics, but I’ve done that on some old walnut scales I made for a BK14. I just scribed around the nut and carefully cut out the notch with a combination of a sharp utility knife and a couple really narrow chisels, I have some of the ones used for wood turning. I worked slow and kept checking fit as I went. Took time but I got there.

 

[tanglediver]

V84mystang, that's what I did on a set.

 

[milkyeye]

I think there are additional options out there, for removal scales, without having to use a nut. Doing some more inquiries now.

 

[daizee]

here is a link'
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/making-hex-head-holes-in-knife-handles.856229/

Haha, funny you should quote that this week.
Worked great in micarta. Not in G10.

I just used that technique this past week to inset some nuts into a piece of teak. It works FAST in teak, holy wow! All the natural oils flare up.

 

[NJBillK]

Honestly, while I like the stock hardware, I would just swap to a chainring bolt and drill/countersink the holes.

 

[1066vik]

with wood scales, I countersink a hole same diameter as the flats then pull the nut into the handle while cranking down on the bolt - then I countersink the bolt head.

 

[milkyeye]

Some good ideas here, thanks for all the info.

 

[Don W]

Milkyeye I have used luke rivets or corby rivets(they are screws not sure why they are called rivets). You still have to counter sink them to proper depth, but they are round so there is no hexagonal shape.

 

[milkyeye]

I thought the corby bolts had extended heads that were ground flush when done, eliminating the slots. Using pocket hole bits to make the step change in the hole. I have not heard of luke rivets before. time to Google.

 

[NJBillK]

I thought the corby bolts had extended heads that were ground flush when done, eliminating the slots. Using pocket hole bits to make the step change in the hole.

Yea, that's them. They are nice but semi-permanent. The only way to remove then that I know of us to drill them out.

 

[tjswarbrick]

Looks like a luke rivet is 3 pieces (2 acorn nuts and a threaded rod) whereas corbys are 2-piece (one male, one female.)
Both are touted as permanent - once fitted and shaped, the slots are gone. Both work best with a couterbore.
Oftentimes epoxy is used in addition. I used corbys to permanently affix the wood scale in my avatar.

I have also used flat socket-head cap screws with a threaded pivot barrel to affix scales. Removable, and only need counter-sunk round holes.

(I can't take credit for the TKC G10 scales, obviously, but I did buy new barrels to accommodate the liners.)

Fiddleback and Enzo are permanent.
Rest are removable with either hex nuts, flat-head screws, or button-head screws.

 

[Don W]

Yep, I guess I overlooked the removable aspect. I like those flat socket head cap screws tjswarbrick.