Making wood scales for Esee4

N

n7titan

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Jun 14, 2014
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I couldn't resist trying my hand after seeing so many nice examples around the internet. I'm using birch wood; I'd like to stain and oil it to a dark finish. Any suggestions?

I used a miter saw to cut the stock into two slabs, then used a belt sander to get a rough shape. I'm still planning to use the Esee kydex sheath, at least until I fancy a leather one. For now it's great.
Took my time with some files after that to bring the profile closer to the tang of the knife.

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A big challenge for me is to not go too fast and make a mistake. I have to remind myself over and over to not go too deep, or even get it exactly aligned just yet. I still have to bring down and match the thickness of the two pieces on the sander, then profile the handle before I can do a final sand to finish. I can understand why anybody too used to power tools can get frustrated when your best/only option is to use a hand file and patience.

I'll post more pictures as it comes along.
 
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Used the sander today to start rough profiling and to match thickness'. I drilled the holes yesterday but without a drill press they came out a bit untidy looking. I had thought about making the handle rough textured anyways, like a whittled piece of wood. I'll have to see where I end up.

It's coming along nicely :D Pretty much all the rough profiling is done, and now the rest of the time will be with sandpaper and files.
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Millimeters to go guys :) I added some finger reliefs and a sort of palm swell. Feels really comfy in the hand.
I'm still a little off here and there, like around the choil and in front of the first screw. Other than that it's down to polishing a finish, then stain (although I love the light wood on black,, maybe I'll clear coat it first), and seal.
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the contrast looks nice. Try some tung oil on a scrap piece before you clear coat it, you may like the result.
 
Do you guys think I should thin down the bottom of the scales to make a more traditional palm swell? With my index on the finger relief my pinky rests just on top of the bottom screw. I haven't felt a palm swelled handle before, how much does that extra relief help ergonomics for the bottom portion of your grip? (or how many of you prefer that to a flat bottom portion?)
 
Along with zuluninja's suggestion, try some several coats of boiled linseed oil on a test piece. When I use the boiled linseed oil on maple it seems to bring out the grain very nicely.

When I am using 320 or 400 grit sand paper, I wet the wood to pop the wood fibers. Let it dry overnight and sand again. I like to do this several times. It makes a nice smooth finish.

Ric
 
Phydeaux said:
Along with zuluninja's suggestion, try some several coats of boiled linseed oil on a test piece. When I use the boiled linseed oil on maple it seems to bring out the grain very nicely.

When I am using 320 or 400 grit sand paper, I wet the wood to pop the wood fibers. Let it dry overnight and sand again. I like to do this several times. It makes a nice smooth finish.

Ric
Click to expand...

I'll definitely try out a bunch of oils first, I'd rather feel the wood grain than some kind of lacquer. As far as finish I have 3M's 30-1 micron polishing paper. The same paper that puts a mirror on my edge makes the wood silky smooth.
 
With the maple scales that you have in the photos, I'd just work up through the grits to 400 or 600. It should give you a nice smooth finish, I think the 1 micron paper is an over kill for maple.

i use atleast 5-6 coats of the boiled linseed oil, letting it dry overnight between coats. Be very careful with the linseed oil. the used rags can spontaneoulsly combust. http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflinspontaneouscombust.html

Watco Danish oil is one of my favorites too.

Ric
 
Yes it is, I think at that point I'm smoothing out the grains to be completely flat. It's Birch btw.

Danish oil, check.
 
So I started finishing it with Watco Danish Oil, a couple questions.

How well will this finish hold up if I don't seal it with a wax? (or whatever would be appropriate?)
I'd like to feel the wood grain as much as I can while keeping it resistant to water and easy to maintain. From what I've read most use another sealant and just maintain with light sanding and re-applying oil and sealant.

Can I get away without the sealant?

Progress picture:
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It's basically all done. The Danish oil went on a tad darker than I expected, but I like the finish anyways. It also gives bit of a sheen, changing the color a bit depending on the light source.

All in all it was a fun project and know I will enjoy it for years to come.
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