MAM knives - a pleasant surpise

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Jan 4, 2019
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I don't know how familiar people here are with MAM knives, since I know a lot of yall prefer the more high end fancy stuff. But they make simple, cheap, wooden handled knives very much (very much, sometimes) like Opinels, but cheaper. I finally bought one, and I was surprised. I expected it to basically be an inferior knockoff product, but I am actually very happy with it.

The handles are just cheap wooden pieces, and the fit and finish on some of the pieces might be somewhat inferior to an Opinel, but they are cheaper than Opinels as well, and the blades can be made just as sharp...maybe even sharper. They come in a much wider variety of shapes and styles than Opinels, and they can be had with an ingenious kind of semi-liner lock which comprises a single carefully bent and shaped piece of sheet metal inserted into a milled slot inside the handle, and sandwiched in between the handle and blade and riveted in when the knife is assembled. Other than working backwards to the way most normal liner locks work they seem to work just fine. Most styles can be had with this lock, or a lock-free version for hoplophobic nations (I got a very useful sheepsfoot in both locking and non-locking variants).
Unfortunately the blades only come in stainless steel; "high quality German stainless steel", they say. I'm curious what it actually is. It feels roughly like good 420HC maybe, on the hard side by my standards, but easy to sharpen and take a nasty sharp edge. Blades are nice and thin. Made in Portugal. They come in a variety of styles, all of them more or less ugly from the factory - but that's really true of a standard Opinel as well. They can all easily be improved, some more creatively than others. The ones that are pretty much Opinel ripoffs can be taken as far as any Opinel, obviously. The ones I like the best have very minimalist, straight handles, without much material for fancy carving and shaping. But I still sanded down the ugly sharp edges and imperfect factory poly coating, and darkened the wood by baking it with olive oil. Looks much better now.
Anyway if you're like me and dig good, cheap, simple knifes that work, check them out. You could buy a whole case of these for the price of a single mid-grade Spyderco, and while I'm sure these don't have Adamantium blades that can cut through 10 miles of cardboard withour dulling, or slice steel like butter, or no-handed depolyment in 2 microseconds, and they can't hold the weight of a Toyota on their lock mechanism without failing, they work more than well enough for realistic tasks that I usually use my knife for. I'm thinking about starting a collection, and modifying them. Opinels are getting downright common it seems like.
If only they had carbon blades....I just like the way carbon looks better. Something about an always-shiny blade seems wrong to me.
 
Nice writeup on the MAM. That wide sheepsfoot is my bagel knife: slice the bagel and spread the cream cheese, all in one slick move.

There are a lot of ways you can get drawn in here on BF. Those low-buck, high-value working knives are one of those ways. If you keep snooping around you may come across Antonini, Douk-Douk, Mercator, Pallares de Solsona, Mora, Marttiini, Okapi, Svord and many others .
Not all are as inexpensive as the MAM, but they are pretty cheap, and interesting enough to occupy you for a long time.

To get an idea of the kind of knives I am talking about, pay a visit to Baryonyx Knife Co. the owner is a supporting dealer who appears here as Forty-two Blades. Most of his knives are the ones I am talking about.

The Traditional subforum, AKA the Porch, is the best place to look for fellow-travelers.
 
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Nice writeup on the MAM. That wide sheepsfoot is my bagel knife: slice the bagel and spread the cream cheese, all in one slick move.

There are a lot of ways you can get drawn in here on BF. Those low-buck, high-value working knives are one of those ways. If you keep snooping around you may come across Antonini, Douk-Douk, Mercator, Pallares de Solsona, Mora, Marttiini, Okapi, Svord and many others .
Not all are as inexpensive as the MAM, but they are pretty cheap, and interesting enough to occupy you for a long time.

To get an idea of the kind of knives I am talking about, pay a visit to Baryonyx Knife Co. the owner is a supporting dealer who appears here as Forty-two Blades. Most of his knives are the ones I am talking about.

The Traditional subforum, AKA the Porch, is the best place to look for fellow-travelers.
My apologies: MAM knives. :eek: I guess I should have known that, since they plaster the logo on every part of the knife!

That's where I got mine. Some of them. Yes, I love the douk douk; I think it's my favorite all around knife. Never known a knife so easy to sharpen, and they take very hard abuse, especially the chrome plated ones. I've got some Okapis, Svords and Moras already. The Mora 2/0 is my favorite potato-prep knife: I guess the scandi grind is good for carving wood, and peeling potatoes is similar in some ways; mine also has a rounded tip from sharpening it so much, and it works perfectly for gouging out the potato eyes with a single twisting motion. Other knifes don't work as well. I don't dislike the larger Moras, but the little 2/0 seems the most useful, for my purposes. I like the Okapis because they are just cheap, soft steel blades that I don't mind messing up on nasty jobs, and the Svords are cool....but they don't work very well for a lot of jobs, in my experience. Not sure why. The Mercator is good all around. I will have to check out the others though.
I just thought the MAM...sorry, MAM/...knives were an especially good deal for the price, and felt like singing their praises a bit. My sheepsfoot gets used for slicing onions and things on the cutting board; the straight blade can be used like a mini cleaver and used to chop onion circles into wedges with a simple downward press, no worrying about the pieces getting all knocked out of alignment as you slice, which is what usually happens to me, no matter how careful I try to hold them and how sharp my knife is (less risk of slicing right into a finger, for that matter!)
 
I have a couple of them and they are a perfect workbench and around the house knife.
The thin blade stock is a wonderful thing.
 
it still pleases me to use my opi's and mora's - they really have excellent stainless and carbon blades, I just love them for actual work.
I have not tried the mam yet, but I always intended to get one... I'm guessing they use 4116 steel, which is used in about 90% of all european kitchen knives (my guess, but think it's accurate)... I know how it behaves and really like the sandvik much more
 
The MAM knives are 420 stainless steel @ 57 RC..
Ah, so I was quite close. I thought it "felt" pretty similar to Buck steel. It seems to be relatively well done for 420 steel. Is it just regular 420, not 420HC? The heat treatment seems to be good. Better than a typical gas station knife anyway.

Anyway, these are my knives. Top to bottom,
Stock (worn) Opinel No3 Inox,
Partially sanded MAM 2A round spearpoint,
Stock Opinel No6,
Stock Opinel No7,
Customized Opinel No8,
Custom MAM 2038 Operario 3" spearpoint linerlock w/ lanyard,
Custom MAM 3B(?) 3.25" sheepsfoot friction folder,
Stock MAM 2043 Operario 3.25" sheepsfoot w/ leather thong
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I would like to point out that the MAM spearpoint is actually pretty sharp looking once you pretty it up a little, and the blade is slightly larger than my Opinel 8, but with a MUCH slimmer handle and profile. The stock one on the bottom is a good indicator of the plain, even ugly, handles as they come. But the lines are okay, and you can see how I sanded them to round them out, and darkened them by baking them with olive oil. Stain would work too. The logos are cut deeply into the handle so you can retain them with due caution when sanding, but you could also sand them out pretty easily. I'm going to try that on the last sheepsfoot. The two MAMs with lanyards came with them, both versions come in both linerlock and friction folder and with or without lanyards. Don't recall seeing any friction/lanyard models, but you could easily make your own. Part of why I ordered those was to see how they drilled the hole, because I wasn't certain there was enough wood. They are pretty minimalist handles. Seems to work fine though. I got mine through Knife Country USA and Baryonyx. For some reason the model names are not intuitive; the friction folder sheepsfoot has a totally dissimilar name from the linerlock, for example, and the model with the lanyard was listed in a whole different section from the one without the lanyard. I prefer the slender, straightline handles, but they can be had with round Opinel style handles, and curvy handles.
Here is a closeup of the small 2A;
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it's not very clear but it looks very much like it was made by installing the ferrule ring and THEN cutting the slot in the handle through both metal and wood. The metal is clearly roughly cut, with saw marks and burrs, and the chrome/nickle plating is chipped off showing the bronze colored metal underneath. Not sure why they'd do that; maybe it's easier to make sure it all lines up? But you'd have to reassemble it all when time came to pin it together anyway. The larger ones are better finished.

Here is the handles closer up, to show the sanding and darkening better. Also showing the linerlocks better, for those who are curious. The liner on the spearpoint sticks out further than it should; I somehow loosened it, I think when I was tightening the rivet after baking it, I bent the metal piece. It still works fine, it just comes out of its little nook. I find the 'backwards' lock to be perfectly intuitive and easy. I just press it sideways with the side of my thumb and pull the blade close with my index finger. I started doing it without even thinking.
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Oh if only they had carbon blades...
 
I love my MAM knife! I bought one of their anniversary edition knives, the ones that come in the fancy slide out boxes. They also did some sort of titanium coating on the blade. I think it was the hunter model with a dark wood handle and a rose gold blade. I use mine purely for eating, but it would be a great knife around the house for very light duty stuff.
 
This is an old Portuguese knife from MAM-Palaçoulo.;):thumbsup:

Hey, I really like that. And it's carbon steel too. I am glad to see that the friction folder sheepsfoot is a classic in their line, although the lines have changed some. I kind of like that older one better, personally. I'm tempted to grind down mine to make it more of an angular shape now, to better match that classic style.
 
I was thinking I should have included a shot of the blade folded to show just how much slimmer and less massive the MAM's handle is than the Opinel 8's. The difference is really significant. The blades are roughly the same size, but the MAM has a much slimmer handle, and it's flat as well. The whole things folds into a very compact, neat package, and I actually really like the lines of it. Note that this Opinel has already had a great deal of handle material removed, and it much slimmer than a stock Opinel 8 already.
Again the MAMs, the new 2043 sheepsfoot liner lock, but now with the handle properly sanded and seasoned, and a lanyard added to it (with custom yellow metal washer taken from heavy equipment. Just because) and the same 2038 spearpoint, along with my carved and sanded Opinel. The difference in bulk is more evident in person than in the photos.
I like to use random old washers and bits of metal as decorations and handles, and as weights to make the cords lay properly when sticking out of my pocket. I use different combinations for different knives that I use a lot, so I can tell which is which by feel if I have several in my pocket. Several I have made up of loose pieces of odd metal washers, dog tags, etc on ring, so they jingle when the knife is used, or when I walk.
These are mostly just normal washers. But the new 2043 is also tied with a new system I developed to avoid the simple knot in the end, which often comes undone, is unslightly, and tends to make the washers crooked on the lanyard. It seems to be working well so far, I am going to change them all over.
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How’s the lock-up blade play on these?
There is a little bit of fore and aft play when it's locked, at least on my two locking knives. That may be because of wood shrinkage when I baked them to darken the olive oil though, because I am pretty sure I noted that the factory one had almost no play when new compared to the one I had already worked on. Now they both move a bit, maybe an eight inch. The spearpoint is worse. But the lockup seems secure other than that, probably more than the Opinel, which can be forced shut. Lateral play (which neither had until the wood shrunk when heated) is easily adjusted by tapping the head of the rivet a few times on an anvil (a few firm raps, not much, or it'll be too tight). The friction folders can be tightened up to suit the same way. I had concerns that they would then become too tight when the summer humidity came, but I left one in a bowl of water overnight and it didn't seem to effect it at all. Anyway, lateral play is now nil, with a nice amount of friction when opening. Because of the way the lock is wedged in between the handle and the blade, I had some trouble with the spearpoint at first, it being hard to close the blade fully or pull it out. But that seems to have disappeared with a week or two of wear. The lock still forces the blades of both against the side of the slot when closed, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything, and the edge doesn't touch.
The tip of the sheepsfoot does rest on wood when it's closed (that's true of the Opinel and Okapis as well), but if that worries you you can cut a piece of rubber band and stick it down inside for the tip to rest on, so it won't dull. I'm not sure that's even a problem, but I do it just in case. Haven't lost one yet, although they start to cut through after a while.
 
This is an old Portuguese knife from MAM-Palaçoulo.;):thumbsup:

So I tried grinding down my modern sheepsfoot to make it more angular like this old vintage one. I'm not totally happy with it yet, I may try another one. I should have looked at your photo again before starting. Only thinking of removing the radius, I ground material off both the spine and the fore edge (not sure what the term is), because I didn't want to shorten the blade a whole 1/4". But that just reduced the depth of the spine at the tip, so now the spine and cutting edge are more parallel than before. I can't just grind more off of the spine at the base because that appears to be the opening stop, and it'd bend backwards when opened. I have another I'll try on it though. And I think it's still an improvement, in a way.
Sorry for the bad photos, there just isn't any good lighting in this place at all.
Modified knife in use cutting up peppermint bark for peppermint fudge cookies:
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Stock blade top, ground blade bottom. The length difference is less than it appears, I only removed 1/8th inch or so.
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Hey, I really like that. And it's carbon steel too. I am glad to see that the friction folder sheepsfoot is a classic in their line, although the lines have changed some. I kind of like that older one better, personally. I'm tempted to grind down mine to make it more of an angular shape now, to better match that classic style.

Thank you very much for liking a classic Portuguese knife.:):thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I recently acquired a MAM ("large") "Operario" sheepsfoot non-locking friction folder with a leather fob.

I'm very happy with it. It has to be one of the sharpest knives out of the box I've seen. It seems to hold an edge for a reasonable amount of use, and is quick n' easy to sharpen.

The only "problem" I have with it is it is so light, I'm constantly beating my pocket to make sure it hasn't fallen out.
No doubt I'll be getting more MAM non-locking friction folders. :)
 
I've got a sheepsfoot linerlock MAM. Great box cutter.
 
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