Mammoth stabilizing revisited

R

Rob!

Joined
Feb 9, 2000
Messages
1,865
Hi all

I have just received several really nice sets of mammoth ivory for scales and I was looking for some guidance for proper treatment. I was thinking of sending them to WSSI but I'm a bit worried about the heat kick used with the process. I've had several pieces of wood that came back with splits and cracks, I presume from excess moisture content. I was thinking of putting them in my chamber with some Thompson's water seal. That can cure at room temperature. Am I on the right track?

T.I.A.
 
I think its great to experiment with the woods but with mammoth i would leave it to the experts WSSI gets my vote.....
 
First they should be left out for a while to naturally shrink. You can stabalize them yourself by putting on a few coats of super glue. it will fill in any cracks or pores. Put it on both sides. It is an acrylic and will also take a nice polish. I have mammoth I vory that I cut myself but will wait about a year to use it so it can shrink. It will always move no matter what you do depending on humidity and temp. I have some tha tI have been waiting to use for 2 years. I just haven't designed the right knife yet, and I can be certain that they won't shrink once I get around to using them.
 
why do i keep hearing about mammoth tusks? all prehistoric fossils of mammoths are accounted for. i don't think any find their way into knife handles.

ps: i'm not really as dumb as the question i posted.

cheers!
 
Either go with the pros, if you want them stabilized all the way.
Or try the superglue method. That's what i do with good results.

....all prehistoric fossils of mammoths are accounted for.
Click to expand...

Huh? Well, first, mammoths are NOT fossils, but preserved by the everlasting ice of the permafrost grounds in Siberia, Alaska or northern Canada. Then, what do you mean when you say "are accounted for"? In Russia you can even book a journey to dig your own mammoth tusk out of the frozen ground. They are digging out tons of it every year. And you can buy it all over europe to use it as knife handles or for scrimshaw or carving. No problem to tell the difference from fresh elephant ivory. Not only is the colour often completely different from the minerals the mammoth ivory took up from the earth it wasburied in. but also the so-called Schrager-lines are completely different. In mammoth ivory they cross at less than 90°, in elephant ivory at more than 115°.

Achim
 
Thanks for all the advice. I agree the professionals do the best stabilizing but even Mike at WSSI is powerless against inadequately prepared product. If I can just fihure out how to dry it properly without damaging it in the process, I'll be fine. I guess long term, dry, moderate heat is the ticket.

Rob!
 
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