Manix 2 Blade Centering

Big_Red

Big_Red

Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
669
Got my first USA Spydie today, a Manix 2. Hopefully have a Para 2 and UKPK Carbon Fiber from Golden, Colorada, USA, Earth, on the way as well. :D

Quick question. Blade is slightly off center, nothing awful or affecting function, but wondering if you pros could give me any tips and tricks on adjusting. My first reaction is loosen and tighten all the screws until it gets better, which has yielded some results.

Thanks in advance.

Side note... this is one of the nicest examples of G10 checkering/texture I've had. Comparing with MANY knives of ALL price points. Just excellent. Very nice knife!
 
Last edited:
in addition to the pivot screw make sure the body screws are tight. that can also affect centering.
 
I've tried that as well... thanks.

Anything else? Will the mechanism fly all over the floor if I take the pivot screws out? Can I swap the pivot washers around to see if it evens the alignment?
 
Try loosening one side of the pivot screw a bit and then tightening it back down on the opposite side's screw. That worked for me on my Sage 2.
 
Big_Red said:
I've tried that as well... thanks.

Anything else? Will the mechanism fly all over the floor if I take the pivot screws out? Can I swap the pivot washers around to see if it evens the alignment?
Click to expand...

no, nothing will fly out. there isn't that much tension on the spring. When taking it apart though it's very difficult to remove the lanyard tube from the g-10.
 
Try this out. Loosen both pivot screws and all screws on the handle. They don't need to be about to fall out but a turn or so. When looking at the blade when the knife is closed and the pivot is at the top, push the handle liner and scale down that is closest to the blade and the other scale that the blade needs to move towards, up. I don't know if it will work with the lanyard tube holding everything in place, but on knives without the tube this will cause the axis of the pivot screw to tilt slightly changing the angle of the blade in the handle. Hope that all made sense.

Edit: The Manix 2 is a little harder than most knives to take apart. If you have some mechanical knowledge and are used to working on things it is not all that difficult but can be frustrating. What makes it hard is that the lanyard tube is 'peened' on the ends to expand the tube and grab the G10 on both sides so the liners and scales don't want to move away from each other. The pivot also uses a bushing that inserts in the liner on each side and then the diameter increases making a shoulder that only allows the liners to get a predetermined distance from each other. You have to loosen everything and 'pry' the liners apart to get over the bushing and then rotate the liners and scales on the lanyard tube to expose the innards. All that being said, I'm not sure taking the knife apart will help with the centering. I think loosening the screws and tightening them in different patterns will be your best bet. You can also try wedging an object like a piece of folded up paper between the blade and liner to move it where you want it and then tightening the screws up and taking the wedge out once tight. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Mr Florida Mountain Biker... yes sir. Thank you. It's mo' better.

The hollow grind lines are a bit off, one higher than the other, so that may account for some of the difference as well. My assumption is a bit of visible variance in grind is acceptable on any production piece.
 
The problem with the lanyard tube is putting it back together. It's pretty hard to get that tight fit again. It took me many tries to make it fit like factory and I'm not doing that again unless absolutely necessary.

The blade grind might be off a bit and appears as an off-centered blade. In this case, no amount of adjustment to the handle and the screws will change that.

The design of the pivot bushing is such that an evenly ground blade will almost always be centered.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top