Manix 2 lanyard hole not flared

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Mar 15, 2010
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Today, I got my standard 154CM Manix 2 in the mail. Overall, its great. Besides the fact that the lanyard hole isn't flared, everything else is top notch. Normally this would bother be, but this one is going out to tuffthumbz to get some new scales. Has anyone else had this problem? I haven't heard anything about it, so I'm assuming it's a pretty isolated event.
 
I may be misunderstanding the issue, but it would seem to me that if you're having the scales replaced the fact that the lanyard tube is not flared would be a good thing, as it makes it easier to remove and replace the scales.
 
I may be misunderstanding the issue, but it would seem to me that if you're having the scales replaced the fact that the lanyard tube is not flared would be a good thing, as it makes it easier to remove and replace the scales.
Yeah, it is a good thing since the scales are getting replaced, but normally it would bother me. It's not much of an issue, just wanted to see if I'm the only one to which this has happened. Sorry for the confusion.

The point is it was something that got thru quality control.
I guess you could say that's what I was getting at.
 
While I don't have one in my pocket right at this moment. Isn't thetube between the liners wider than the flared portion? Kind of like what we see on the Para2.
 
The lanyard tube in my Military was loose when I got it. I just trimmed the heads off of a couple of countersink screws for the conical shapes, then stuck it in a vise to flare it. Took two minutes to fix, and has been fine through plenty of use since then.
 
The lanyard tube in my Military was loose when I got it. I just trimmed the heads off of a couple of countersink screws for the conical shapes, then stuck it in a vise to flare it. Took two minutes to fix, and has been fine through plenty of use since then.
That's what I plan on doing after my custom scales get here. It should only take a few seconds once I get it all figured out.
 
I just trimmed the heads off of a couple of countersink screws for the conical shapes, then stuck it in a vise to flare it.

That's a great trick! If I ever need to use it, I might try sheet rock screws, as they have a "bugle head" (curved transition, instead of flat)
 
I'm not sure I would trust 2 screw heads to flare the lanyard tube because they may want to twist when pressure is applied. Plus the force applied on each side might be different so you get uneven results. I personally would use a tapered rod, like a punch, and slide it into one side of the lanyard tube until it makes contact with the very outside of the tube. Tap it a couple times with a hammer to drive the punch in and spread the tube. The tube is a close fit in the scales so it shouldn't take much at all to get the lanyard tube to snug up in the hole in the scales. I would flare the tube as little as possible in case you want to take apart the knife in the future.
 
I'm not sure I would trust 2 screw heads to flare the lanyard tube because they may want to twist when pressure is applied. Plus the force applied on each side might be different so you get uneven results. I personally would use a tapered rod, like a punch, and slide it into one side of the lanyard tube until it makes contact with the very outside of the tube. Tap it a couple times with a hammer to drive the punch in and spread the tube. The tube is a close fit in the scales so it shouldn't take much at all to get the lanyard tube to snug up in the hole in the scales. I would flare the tube as little as possible in case you want to take apart the knife in the future.
That was the method I came up with last night. It seems like it will be better than the screw head method because of the size of the lanyard tube on the Manix.
 
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