Manix 2 Lightweight Deployment

J

Jeremy.zinn

Joined
Feb 20, 2014
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15
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Highly disappointed with the deployment of blade on my Manix 2 LW. I'm able to thumb flick it out without use of wrist but it's nowhere near how the PM2 deploys or even my original Manix. And using the ball bearing lock to flick the blade back in is impossible. Does anyone else have this issue? Or is this just how the lightweight model is?
 
The ball bearing lock models are stiff at first but will eventually break in to becoming easily opened and closed. The nature of the lock makes it to where a constant pressure will be on the tang from the pretty strong spring, so it will never be as effortless as a different locking system like the compression lock.
 
Zinn,I'm having the same problems,Ieven leave the blade partially open at nite.She is nowhere as smooth as the axis lock on my Griptilian:confused:
 
I can open both my light weights by pulling back on the lock and using a very light wrist flick. I can close either by holding the knife upright, pulling back on the lock and letting gravity swing the blade closed. The blades on neither LW swing as freely as my Manix 2 G10 but they're still very easy to deploy.

Yours should free up with use. You can try loosening the pivot screw a tiny bit but I wouldn't go too far.
 
There are a couple ways to lighten up the spring pushing the bearing; remove it cut a little section and put it back but later on you may have to take it out and stretch it because it will be compress to the point it's too light. Or like garddogg 56 suggest leave it open midway to compress it for a couple days.

The washers also need to be broken in, do not adjust the pivot too lightly, if should be slightly stiff but smooth and it will even itself out with use; you will know when it's properly broken in when the blade drops with a light shake but not swing freely. Once that's achieved, take out the pivot screw, put some blue locktite on it (very little will do) and tighten to the smoothness you like and you will be a happy owner
 
Flicking is primarily up to the friction in the pivot. My first Manix 2 is still me easiest to flick open out of a total of 5 Manix 2s and 3 PM2s. I don't care about flicking so I haven't adjusted any of the pivots but I notice that they vary slightly out of the box.
 
My Manix LW has the DLC blade and I noticed it took a while to break in but I'm sure the coating has a lot to do with that.

I've adjusted the pivot and the action is much better now, although it's not as smooth as my G10 Manix.
 
I too find the SPRING OVERLY STIFF.

I can never wrist flick it.

That is why I went back to G10 so I could tune it.
 
I had a bd1 LW Manix that I returned because it was sooo stiff. I now have the s110v LW Manix and it is super duper flickable smooth. I don't know why there is such an inconsistency..
 
My lw is really smooth and as smooth as the pimped manix that I had
Scales by ketchen
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2 years after EDC our LW was smooth as an axis lock. Easy to flick in any method.
But yeah, same for the Pkal that my buddy got his girl. Horrible action but it does wave out well.
 
jascolli said:
I had a bd1 LW Manix that I returned because it was sooo stiff. I now have the s110v LW Manix and it is super duper flickable smooth. I don't know why there is such an inconsistency..
Click to expand...

My dark blue FRN is buttery as well. No experience with the BD1 models.

It's probably never going to be as smooth as a PM2 tho, or maybe even a Grip for that matter.
It's almost like complaining that an Endura doesn't flick as smoothly as a PM2.... >_>
 
I owned a BD1 LW for about 3 years before I sold it to a buddy of mine a couple months ago. Before I sold that one, I picked up a S110v LW. The BD1 was stiff and disappointing at first, feeling no where near as smooth as an Axis Lock as I was hoping (perhaps wrongly). Eventually, it improved slightly and I got over it, just accepted it...grew to really appreciate the blade for other reasons, as it's really awesome all-around. Obviously, that experience didn't stop me from buying the S110v variety. Same story with it's action, maybe slightly better.

So, my buddy and I went to the SFO and handled a G10 for the first time about a month ago. It was [B]***miles*** [/B]better than either of my LWs. Scott, the rep there, said the LWs tend to be stiffer than the standard models. My buddy and I both hand our LWs with us and Scott was pretty surprised by exactly how stiff they were. After a bit of tuning (pivot adjustment and lube) he managed to improve the action a bit, but nothing like the G10 model. This past Thursday we went back and handled a brand new display model blurple G10 Manix...same deal, way better than the LWs.

So, long story short, I just chalk it up as a possible characteristic of the LWs. Some might be good/nice. Some people's tolerance makes it a non-issue. Even with its 'kinda crappy' action, my S110v is a phenomenal blade. I'd recommend it readily to anyone looking for an extremely capable, lightweight, modern folder. :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
My S110V LW is just as smooth as my Cruwear and 2 old 154CM Manix 2's.

It is not an Axis lock. But man, any of my M2's flick out hard and fast. Both thumb flick or middle finger. Also, all drop smoothly when disengaging the cbbl.
None of mine have coated blades, nor have I handled a BD-1 M2, so those may be more hit or miss.
 
I have the lw bd1 manix 2 and dlc pm2. In terms of easy deployment and disengagement, they are NOT in the same league. The manix is very stiff for both openning and closing.
 
I sold my manix 2 LW for that reason and went back to carrying my G10 manix 2. The g10 manix 2 just seems more durable and the ability to tighten and loosen the screws is a big plus in my books.
 
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