Manix 2 # of Screws

28gauge · Jun 14, 2015

Just got a Manix 2 while on vacation in the Arizona White Mountains. I really like the knife overall. My one criticism is on the number of assembly screws. I'd prefer that it had one more screw and standoff (or standoff equivalent) further down the handle near the lanyard tube - above or below. The design is relying on the pressed lanyard tube to hold the lower portion of the knife together. Assembly and disassembly will loosen the lanyard tube and therefore the scales and liners near the bottom. I guess screw or not, I'm not a fan of Spyderco's pressed lanyard tubes, but one more screw would have been nice.

blanex1 · Jun 14, 2015

i was thinking this same thing!one could add another stanoff/screw at the back,but then there go's the resale value!always seems to be room for improvement,it would be nice if they get it right from the start though..

28gauge · Jun 14, 2015

blanex1 said:
i was thinking this same thing!one could add another stanoff/screw at the back,but then there go's the resale value!always seems to be room for improvement,it would be nice if they get it right from the start though..

Really. The flared lanyard hole in general (IMHO) is not a quality design and not what you'd expect from a company like Spyderco. The knife should be built so that disassembly and assembly is without trauma. Typically, a shouldered lanyard hole standoff is sandwiched between liners and slabs with an appropriate number of screws to hold them together. Or, no lanyard tube at all, just a finished hole. To substitute the lanyard tube for an adequate number of screws and standoffs is not what you want. Of course these are going to loosen up. Same thing on the Para 2. At least the lower screw is closer to the bottom. I want a knife I know can be taken apart if I choose to, regardless of the warranty!

The Deacon · Jun 14, 2015

Not everyone is happy with the Manix 2's construction. Then again, I can't think of a single Spyderco that everyone can agree is constructed perfectly. I could be wrong but, IIRC, the lanyard tube is stepped. That would make logical sense since there's more chance of someone gripping the handle firmly enough to squeeze the slabs together back there, than doing something to force them apart. As for ease of disassembly, Spyderco has made it pretty clear that they use screws for ease of factory assembly rather than user serviceability and actively discourage people from taking their knives apart.

CryoGuy5272 · Jun 14, 2015

Had a Manix that I had issues putting scales on because of the flared tube.something that could be remedied by Spyderco in the future.

Razzle · Jun 14, 2015

One can further strengthen the rear end of the Manix, or eliminate the lanyard hole altogether (as Sketchen and I did) by simply obtaining one extra long pocket clip screw that threads all the way through to the other side.

I didn't care for the appearance of the bare threads being exposed, so I spent 59 cents at the local hardware store for a teensy black hard rubber grommet that the long screw threads through.....the tail end of this Manix is SOLID, perhaps even more so than with a lanyard tube/flared ends, and super EZ to service the knife, now. Eventually I'll cut a little piece of brass or stainless steel tubing the replace the grommet, just haven't gotten around to it, yet.

Also did a screw on the other side to secure the custom scale, which has since been replaced with a flat head to match the other stock screws, and Steve countersunk it for me to be flush with scale.

28gauge · Jun 14, 2015

The Deacon said:
Not everyone is happy with the Manix 2's construction. Then again, I can't think of a single Spyderco that everyone can agree is constructed perfectly. I could be wrong but, IIRC, the lanyard tube is stepped. That would make logical sense since there's more chance of someone gripping the handle firmly enough to squeeze the slabs together back there, than doing something to force them apart. As for ease of disassembly, Spyderco has made it pretty clear that they use screws for ease of factory assembly rather than user serviceability and actively discourage people from taking their knives apart.

Your point on the stepped lanyard tube to avoid compression is a really good one. The flared lanyard tube design is one issue, but the absence of one more screw and spacer on that knife is quite strange. I noticed that on the XL Manix 2, they still did not add an additional screw. The top lock/blade stop spacer screw was somehow eliminated and moved down. I think mine is going back to the retailer.

28gauge · Jun 14, 2015

Razzle said:
One can further strengthen the rear end of the Manix, or eliminate the lanyard hole altogether (as Sketchen and I did) by simply obtaining one extra long pocket clip screw that threads all the way through to the other side.

I didn't care for the appearance of the bare threads being exposed, so I spent 59 cents at the local hardware store for a teensy black hard rubber grommet that the long screw threads through.....the tail end of this Manix is SOLID, perhaps even more so than with a lanyard tube/flared ends, and super EZ to service the knife, now. Eventually I'll cut a little piece of brass or stainless steel tubing the replace the grommet, just haven't gotten around to it, yet.

Also did a screw on the other side to secure the custom scale, which has since been replaced with a flat head to match the other stock screws, and Steve countersunk it for me to be flush with scale.

Nicely done. I saw one execution where someone put a Chicago screw through the existing lanyard tube. The flaring was eliminated as well.

bruleront · Jun 14, 2015

Nicely done, Razzle. I like the grommet idea. I did something similar with a steel standoff:

The Deacon · Jun 15, 2015

28gauge said:
Your point on the stepped lanyard tube to avoid compression is a really good one. The flared lanyard tube design is one issue, but the absence of one more screw and spacer on that knife is quite strange. I noticed that on the XL Manix 2, they still did not add an additional screw. The top lock/blade stop spacer screw was somehow eliminated and moved down. I think mine is going back to the retailer.

Might have something to do with Sal being a fan of Lotus automobiles and his strong belief in Colin Chapman's philosophy of "simplify, then add lightness". He may feel more screws, and/or a longer backspacer, would only add weight and complication without actually making the knife any stronger or more serviceable. While I'm sure that's true, I'd consider the added weight of an extra standoff to be an acceptable price for the more balanced look it would give the knife.

28gauge · Jun 15, 2015

bruleront said:
Nicely done, Razzle. I like the grommet idea. I did something similar with a steel standoff:

The standoff works great. I'm assuming you used a threaded standoff? Did you drill out the threads on one of the clip holes on each side?

nccole · Jun 15, 2015

The Deacon said:
Might have something to do with Sal being a fan of Lotus automobiles and his strong belief in Colin Chapman's philosophy of "simplify, then add lightness". He may feel more screws, and/or a longer backspacer, would only add weight and complication without actually making the knife any stronger or more serviceable. While I'm sure that's true, I'd consider the added weight of an extra standoff to be an acceptable price for the more balanced look it would give the knife.

Possible, but that's Eric's design. In my experience with the Manix 2 and Military, the tube is structural, and serves it purpose well. I found out by removing my Military's tube completely and realized it added a lot of rigidity. I put it back in and all is good. No rattling, no loss of strength, and it is a lighter solution. I get rid of all laynard tubes when possible. It seems US tubes are structural, and Taichung's are not. Not saying that is a guarantee, but from memory and my knives it holds true.

bruleront · Jun 16, 2015

28gauge said:
The standoff works great. I'm assuming you used a threaded standoff? Did you drill out the threads on one of the clip holes on each side?

Yes, it's a threaded standoff. You'll just need a couple of longer screws, which thread through the liners and into the standoff. No drilling or tapping needed.

I like the improved rigidity, but it's probably more noticeable on the sprint run Manixes, with the milled out liners, than it would be on the standard versions.

m6steen · Jun 19, 2015

@razzle what are the specs on the screws you used?

spketch · Jun 20, 2015

m6steen said:
@razzle what are the specs on the screws you used?

The screws are 2-56, threaded length is .4".
The gap is about .55" but you can get away with a bit thicker if you're using a compressible rubber washer.

Replace a pocket clip screw with the longer one. Pinching the liners and scales tightly together, screw it in all the way through the opposite liner. You don't need to drill out the clip holes and use a threaded standoff, though that will certainly work as well.

Razzle · Jun 20, 2015

spketch said:
The screws are 2-56, threaded length is .4".
The gap is about .55" but you can get away with a bit thicker if you're using a compressible rubber washer.

Replace a pocket clip screw with the longer one. Pinching the liners and scales tightly together, screw it in all the way through the opposite liner. You don't need to drill out the clip holes and use a threaded standoff, though that will certainly work as well.

I concur......lol. What HE said!

skyhorse · Jun 20, 2015

This one is the answer.

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LightningG · Nov 26, 2019

ferider · Nov 26, 2019

Talking about an old thread

Most of my Manix 2 look like this in the rear:

Exception is wood and Ti scales,

Roland.

nopity · May 14, 2023

bruleront said:
Nicely done, Razzle. I like the grommet idea. I did something similar with a steel standoff:

Bro! (Long pause) Dude! (Longer pause) That's absolutely awesome. I hate to steal an idea. I'm going to have to do it to mine.