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Manix 2 S110V - Need Sharpening Help

Rasco

Rasco

Joined
Jan 3, 2014
Messages
2,028
I can't seem to get my Manix 2 S110V sharp to save my life, and I think I know the factor that's preventing it, but I need input from you guys to confirm my suspicions...

Shortly after I got it (still factory edge) I used it to cut through some braided metal cable that was attached to a security tag on some gloves I had ordered (shame on you BladeHQ, for not removing them prior to shipping:P)
Anyway, I got through the cable, but the knife was instantly quite dull. Fair enough.
I didn't notice any issues with thing blade, rolling, chipping, etc, but obviously some damage was done.
Since then I've given it the full 220 > 10K treatment on the EPA, as well as on the SharpMaker, and I just can't get the thing to pop hairs.
It *kinda* makes it's way through paper, but not really.
I know how to get a knife ridiculously sharp on the EPA, and the Manix's siblings (Cruwear Millie, SB Stretch, PM2, etc) are all sharp as hell, so what went wrong on the Manix?

There's no obvious damage, or flattening, or rolling or anything, so I'm confused as to how to fix this.

It feels very sharp at lower grits, but once I go 1k (or higher) on the EPA or use the ultra-fine stones on the SharpMaker, I feel like it actually loses sharpness.

Any ideas?

I will try to get some pics later, but phone cams don't take very good close-ups.
 
Here's something like the braided cable security tag I had to cut off...

tags-3-alarm-cabelok.jpg
 
Just guessing here... That tag did some serious edge damage. Add to this the fact 110v is going to take a while to sharpen onces it's dull. Maybe it feels sharp at a lower grit do to the teeth that form. Do one more sharpening from a lower grit and see how it is at 1k again, I bet you're close!
 
Yeah it came very sharp from Spyderco, and after that tag, it was like a butter knife.
But I wasn't able to see any actual damage, so I wasn't sure. But yeah, I figured as much.

I'm wondering if someone who knows more than me about edge geometry / behavior could tell me if it's possible that there is like a "micro-burr" or something, or the edge is folded over in such a way that I'm basically sharpening the back of the fold? does that makes sense?

I'll be up at my folks house tomorrow, where my EPA lives, and I'll just have to give it some extra time on the 220 before I move on.
 
Wow, can't believe you cut that with a knife. Yeah it's gonna take some time to get the edge back.
 
No expert here, but I would check to make sure I was apexing all the way. I would play with some different angles and see what happens.
 
dr_fosg8 said:
Wow, can't believe you cut that with a knife. Yeah it's gonna take some time to get the edge back.
Click to expand...

Yeah not my proudest moment, but I was on a S110V high and my judgement was blurred.
I prefer to place the blame on the online retailer who sent me the gloves with the security tag still on.... :P
 
As long as you're properly apexing the edge (full-length burr on the blade) on both sides and effectively removing that burr you should achieve sharpness.
 
I'm still an EPA rookie. I managed to get some good results on most of my knives, but yeah I still have a lot to learn.
It was removing the Sharpie completely with just a few passes, so I figured I had found the correct angle.

I'll work on it some more tomorrow and see how it goes.
If I can get this Manix 2 as sharp as my Millie or my PM2, this thing is gonna be in my pocket a lot this summer.
 
Rasco said:
I'm still an EPA rookie. I managed to get some good results on most of my knives, but yeah I still have a lot to learn.
It was removing the Sharpie completely with just a few passes, so I figured I had found the correct angle.

I'll work on it some more tomorrow and see how it goes.
If I can get this Manix 2 as sharp as my Millie or my PM2, this thing is gonna be in my pocket a lot this summer.
Click to expand...

Did you get a burr on the 220?
 
FLAME SUIT ON! Why does everyone insist that it's absolutely critical to get a burr. Some sharpening systems promote a "one stroke one side, one stroke on the other" repeatedly. Does that form a macroscopically observable burr? I KNOW ITS AN EASY WAY TO CHECK PROGRESS, but it seems to be promoted as THE only way. I've got lots of knives hair whittling with no burr I could detect. Perhaps my comment was misinterpreted. "Almost there" referred to nearly apexing the edge.

The good news is we ALL agree on what the problem and solution are! ;) HAPPY SHARPENING!!!
 
Honed_Edge said:
FLAME SUIT ON! Why does everyone insist that it's absolutely critical to get a burr. Some sharpening systems promote a "one stroke one side, one stroke on the other" repeatedly. Does that form a macroscopically observable burr? I KNOW ITS AN EASY WAY TO CHECK PROGRESS, but it seems to be promoted as THE only way. I've got lots of knives hair whittling with no burr I could detect. Perhaps my comment was misinterpreted. "Almost there" referred to nearly apexing the edge.

The good news is we ALL agree on what the problem and solution are! ;) HAPPY SHARPENING!!!
Click to expand...

Remember the OP said he uses an Edge Pro Apex. Good luck with your time management with a one stroke, side method with that system. ;)
 
In my experience it can lead to a wire edge. These "super" steels can form very tenacious burrs that are difficult to fully remove. Alternating sides during the sharpening process can straighten the burr and make it more difficult to detect. Then you go to use it and it starts to fold over again. This is not so much an issue when doing a simple sharpening, but I have had this issue several times when reprofiling (S30V, D2, S35VN). FYI I sharpen free hand, and have done so since before many here even knew what a knife was.

I think this is actually the reason why factory edges often underperform, and improvement is seen after a few sharpenings, rather than the oft cited reason of a "burned" edge. They use power equipment to sharpen at the factory, and it is VERY easy to raise a significant burr with power equipment. If great care is not taken to fully remove it you are left with a wire edge.
 
The sharpmaker method of using the corner of the tri-stones addresses this issue.Hope this makes sense. Need more java. :o
 
Thanks to everyone who offered feedback.
I spent about 30 mins on the EP 220 stones alone. That seems to have made the difference. Also made me seriously consider investing in some 110 EP stones :P
All in all, she came out very sharp, almost as sharp as my others, so I'm calling it a win.

I'm also going to use some snips next time, and not a brand new Spyderco
 
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