Manix Oddities

Dave Rishar

Dave Rishar

Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Messages
3,178
I purchased my first Spyderco (a Manix) a few weeks ago and recently began putting it through its paces. It was purchased as a work knife for hard use and I like to get an idea of what something is capable of before relying on it exclusively.

I had some problems with the S30V initially - it dulled extremely quickly. I've owned a variety of knives that didn't want to hold an edge before they'd been sharpened down to the "good" stuff and while I'd never seen it in stainless before, a good sharpening on the diamond stones seemed to fix that problem.

After several problem free days I cut up an aluminum soda can and the edge chipped out:

manix.jpg


I noticed the problem before I'd completed cutting up the can but I completed the job anyway to get a better idea of what I was seeing. I'm fairly sure that most, if not all, of the damage occurred on the bottom of the can.

The chips are not particularly deep and it shouldn't be too much trouble to grind another edge on but I'm concerned about this. I'm new to S30V and Spydercos so I have no previous experience to compare this against.

I figured that I ought to ask about it here. Am I being unrealistic in my expectations of what should be going on here or am I doing something wrong? The edge I put on it was not particularly thin. I sharpen freehand and couldn't give you the exact angle that it was set at but I'd guess it to be around 20 degrees on either side, give or take, slightly convexed.

I'm quite fond of this knife already and I'm not about to give up on it. My plan for now is to grind a slightly more obtuse (and more convexed) edge on it and give it another shot but if there's something that I'm missing I'd appreciate hearing about it.
 
That doesn't seem right Satori - mine has taken more abuse than that without chipping - you may have sharpened it too fine but those chips look deeper than what a broken off burr would create - The other steel gurus here might give you a better steer than me but that looks like a bad heat treat to me.
 
My first guess would be a faulty heat-treat. No matter what the steel, if properly treated should never chip off like that cutting through a can (it'll surely scratch, but not chip as the steel is harder than the can).

If the heat treat is good, then the factory edge could have been over heated during the final sharpening stages before it was boxed and sold. If you put a new edge on it and it chips again, then I'd consider sending it back to Spyderco.

You're not being unrealitic, the Manix is a much too expensive knife to have these problems. But Spyderco is a great company that'll surely remedy any problems you may send them.

Let me know what happens because I'm strongly considering making a Manix my next knife purchase in a few months.
 
Any quality knife should be able to cut through an AL can. Send it back to Spyderco.
 
It is not the first I've seen or heard of either. I'd suggest the course of action you already mentioned. Give it clean new profile and try her again. If the problem persists let Amanda know and work out returning it for Spyderco to evaluate.
 
I didn't think that this was normal. Thanks all for the assistance.

I'll grind a new edge on it today and see what happens. It may be that I'm just not down to the good steel yet.

Update: the new edge is holding up just fine. I'm a happy camper.
 
Satori said:
I purchased my first Spyderco (a Manix) a few weeks ago and recently began putting it through its paces. It was purchased as a work knife for hard use and I like to get an idea of what something is capable of before relying on it exclusively.

I had some problems with the S30V initially - it dulled extremely quickly. I've owned a variety of knives that didn't want to hold an edge before they'd been sharpened down to the "good" stuff and while I'd never seen it in stainless before, a good sharpening on the diamond stones seemed to fix that problem.

After several problem free days I cut up an aluminum soda can and the edge chipped out:

manix.jpg


I noticed the problem before I'd completed cutting up the can but I completed the job anyway to get a better idea of what I was seeing. I'm fairly sure that most, if not all, of the damage occurred on the bottom of the can.

The chips are not particularly deep and it shouldn't be too much trouble to grind another edge on but I'm concerned about this. I'm new to S30V and Spydercos so I have no previous experience to compare this against.

I figured that I ought to ask about it here. Am I being unrealistic in my expectations of what should be going on here or am I doing something wrong? The edge I put on it was not particularly thin. I sharpen freehand and couldn't give you the exact angle that it was set at but I'd guess it to be around 20 degrees on either side, give or take, slightly convexed.

I'm quite fond of this knife already and I'm not about to give up on it. My plan for now is to grind a slightly more obtuse (and more convexed) edge on it and give it another shot but if there's something that I'm missing I'd appreciate hearing about it.
Click to expand...



That is sad, your knife must be defective. I regularly cut aluminum and tin cans with my ATS-34 BM720 and with a quick steeling afterward it is as good as new. S30V is supposed to be one of the best edge holders, second only to CPM-3V in the stainless class. Send it back to Spyderco and get a new one.
 
Hi Satori. Sory for your experience. As mentioned, that's not right. S30V is quite tough. I would suggest sending it back for a look-see. We can Rc the edge (for our R&D) and put a new blade in it (for your well being).

Please ask Amanda to call it to my attention.

sal
 
Thanks again for the replies and the personal attention, Sal.

After I ground the new edge on I immediately chopped up another aluminum can. When I saw that there were no problems I did some light batoning through some scrap wood. It sliced paper at the end. Three passes of the strop on either side left it in the same condition it had been in when it started.

Whatever the problem was, it seems to be gone. If it's all the same I'd rather hang on to it for the time being. If it starts chipping again I'll send it in, but in the meantime...this one's a keeper. :)
 
We all know spyderco puts an incredible factory edge on their knife, but I find they get better after a 4-5 sharpening process (grey stone-whiteb stone on the 204) ... Like great wine, it gets better with age...;)
 
A picture's worth a thousand words:

manixtest.jpg


The piece of wood that I split wasn't all that long but I did go through a few knots, as you can see. The block that the Manix is sitting on is the baton. Those aren't chop marks on it - those are spine marks. I had to take some pretty good swings in a couple of places.

The cuts in the paper are curved because I was holding the piece by the corner and slicing it while it hung free.

As I said, three passes of the strop on either side and it was as if nothing had happened.

I'm happy now. :)
 
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