Manix2 blade switch?

Joined
Nov 23, 2012
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Is it possible to do a blade swap on the Manix 2 lightweight in S110V to a g10 model with S30v?

I've got the blue lightweight with s110v coming and really liking the idea of a blade swap with my g10 s30v.

I know the blade isn't riveted in like the handles but can it be removed and swapped like the g10 versions

If so would it be any different than the g10 versions?
 
Others have put a Manix 2 Lightweight's S110V blade into a G-10 handle, so it would appear that it can be removed and that they're interchangeable. OTOH, there's a high probability the handle will be damaged when you pry it apart to free the pivot. Don't recall every seeing an "after" photo where both knives were shown reassembled.
 
As the others said, removing the pivot screw of the lightweight version does not simply allow the blade to be removed. The nature of the pivot on that version requires breaking the handle to get the blade out.
 
We'll that shoots that in the foot. Obviously, IMO, the lightweight isn't that bad of a handle that it needs to be destroyed to get the better s110v blade into the better g10 handle. So I guess it will stay as is.

Next question is when are they going to come out with a g10 version with s110v like the para 2. LOL

Never satisfied are we?
 
People have disassembled the lightweight version by drilling out the rivets, and found replacement bolts that will fit. That allows them to reassemble the lightweight handles with the "plain" blade. I don't think anybody has successfully gotten the blade out of the lightweight without removing rivets.
 
I picked up a Manix 2 because I heard many people say that it was a good one to customize the scales. Ended up with a blue lightweight only to find out that all but the g10 versions are riveted.

For me I probably wouldn't go through the hassle of drilling because it's not my favorite Spyder. The "Axis like" lock is nowhere similar and requires way too much two finger force to actuate. So I just decided to leave it alone.

There are many other Spyder models that I really rather customize when the funds allow. But it is something I will pay more attention to in the future.
 
I picked up a Manix 2 because I heard many people say that it was a good one to customize the scales. Ended up with a blue lightweight only to find out that all but the g10 versions are riveted.

For me I probably wouldn't go through the hassle of drilling because it's not my favorite Spyder. The "Axis like" lock is nowhere similar and requires way too much two finger force to actuate. So I just decided to leave it alone.

There are many other Spyder models that I really rather customize when the funds allow. But it is something I will pay more attention to in the future.


The CBBL will break in and smooth out over time with a lot of use.
And speaking of those modifying the M2's that you've read about, have you seen where some have removed a coil or two of the BBL spring for even less effort to operate? Obviously only something to take on at your own risk and discretion, but may make the knife fit your expectations a bit closer.

I was also considering drilling the rivets on mine and getting some nice replacement hardware to reassemble it... until I carried the S110V LW for awhile and realized how awesome it is. I think I actually carried it more than my Cruwear M2 (which was my favorite variation) because the LW worked so well with shorts! Didn't always feel like I needed a belt and forgot it was there until needed. This would probably be my ideal backpacking folder, where saving grams is beneficial.
 
I bought an S30V swapped Manix2 built from the leftover parts from an S110V. It has been converted from pins to screw construction. The work was done by user razorburn here and apparently he has done this more than once.
 
I bought an S30V swapped Manix2 built from the leftover parts from an S110V. It has been converted from pins to screw construction. The work was done by user razorburn here and apparently he has done this more than once.

Care to post some photos? Does yours use washers under the screws?
 
what type of hardware would you get to replace the rivets and where do you get them?

The pictures I've seen had hardware that looked very similar to what you would have on a G10 Manix, but the hardware worked like a Corby bolt with male and female parts. I have no idea where they were found but apparently that hardware makes the conversion relatively easy.

I'm not sure if it is worth the time to make the conversions just to save the FRN scales. A person could always sell the leftover 154 or S30V blade, and you can sometimes find used G10 Manix for low prices.
 
The pictures I've seen had hardware that looked very similar to what you would have on a G10 Manix, but the hardware worked like a Corby bolt with male and female parts. I have no idea where they were found but apparently that hardware makes the conversion relatively easy.

I'm not sure if it is worth the time to make the conversions just to save the FRN scales. A person could always sell the leftover 154 or S30V blade, and you can sometimes find used G10 Manix for low prices.

I like the lightweight feel of the lightweight but want the strength of the s110v blade to also have the handle strength of the g10 with liners. So putting the good s30v blade in the lightweight would be a good swap all around.
 
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