I've ordered my marker stamp from Evers today. A good price for the product. I was wondering from the guys out there that have experience as to how important it is to purchase one of those stands that holds the workpiece and the stamp from moving. Sounds like a great idea, yet those little stands costs as much as the stamp. Do I need it? let me know-thanks, Dan
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Marker stamps--need for stands?
- Thread starter TANGUS
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 28, 1999
- Messages
- 1,563
Before I started forging I used my evers stamp on blades when they were cold with mixed results. The biggest problem is a double stamp. My best results came when I would clamp two micarta slabs to either side of the stamp so it could stand on its own and then use a sledge hammer to thwack it in.
I would say that the fixture would be a good investment unless you are forging blades. It is so much easier when the steel is orange! Bagwell taught me his method over the phone!!
Greg Covington
I would say that the fixture would be a good investment unless you are forging blades. It is so much easier when the steel is orange! Bagwell taught me his method over the phone!!
Greg Covington
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,179
I recommend the support. You can really only expect one good clean stroke, because double stamping is vitually guaranteed if you don't get a good impression the first time.
I am terrible about flinching when I take a hearty swing at my fingers with a 2 lb hammer, and consequently seldom have gotten a good stamp (and lots of double stamps), and my expensive die often goes flying across the shop...
But you're right, the fixtures are expensive. Somewhere on here there's a recent post about this very subject and I posted a pic of the fixture I made out of scrap parts around the shop. It works very well, and cost nothing. I won't waste Spark's disk space posting the pic again here, but you can probably find it via search, and I'd be happy to send more pics if you're interested.
One trick that does help is to put a piece of masking tape over the place you're applying your mark, this helps keep your stamp from slipping aside.
Dave
I am terrible about flinching when I take a hearty swing at my fingers with a 2 lb hammer, and consequently seldom have gotten a good stamp (and lots of double stamps), and my expensive die often goes flying across the shop...
But you're right, the fixtures are expensive. Somewhere on here there's a recent post about this very subject and I posted a pic of the fixture I made out of scrap parts around the shop. It works very well, and cost nothing. I won't waste Spark's disk space posting the pic again here, but you can probably find it via search, and I'd be happy to send more pics if you're interested.
One trick that does help is to put a piece of masking tape over the place you're applying your mark, this helps keep your stamp from slipping aside.
Dave
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2001
- Messages
- 40
I tossed and turned over the same question. Once you use that hammer it's there, like it or not. I had a stamp made as well, but made a simple jig to hold the knife blade and stamp.
I used two brass bars. I drilled both as to be able to bolt them together. I cut a hole in one bar the same size as the stamp. This did take a little time to drill and file to a simi-tight fit. I use the two bars as a clamp and put the hole over where I want to stamp. I usually place the whole thing on the concrete floor to hit the stamp with a good size hammer. I can hit it several times to get the depth stamp I want. May slip the next time I use it, but it hasn't yet. Brass bar is 1/2 thick and 1 3/4 wide. Countersink your bolts on the bottom so the bar will be completely flat and flush to what ever you lay it on to use it.
Good luck and hope I've hepled some,
Robert
I used two brass bars. I drilled both as to be able to bolt them together. I cut a hole in one bar the same size as the stamp. This did take a little time to drill and file to a simi-tight fit. I use the two bars as a clamp and put the hole over where I want to stamp. I usually place the whole thing on the concrete floor to hit the stamp with a good size hammer. I can hit it several times to get the depth stamp I want. May slip the next time I use it, but it hasn't yet. Brass bar is 1/2 thick and 1 3/4 wide. Countersink your bolts on the bottom so the bar will be completely flat and flush to what ever you lay it on to use it.
Good luck and hope I've hepled some,
Robert
Now this conjures up a new level of questions. Prior to heattreating, it appears to me that if you heated the area in which you were to use the stamp and then place the stamp and smack it, I would think that the "softened" metal by the heat spot would allow for a better stamping the first time? No harm or foul as you would be heattreating the knife after stamping. How's that sound?--Dan
To get a good impression you need 4 things:
*** A stamp
*** At least a 10 lb. sledge.
*** A concrete floor.
*** A wife or girlfriend.
Take the stamp, sledge, and wife to the garage. Have your wife get down on the floor and hold the stamp on the knife...WARNING..she may not want to do this. Make sure she uses two hands.
Close your eyes and hit the stamp as hard as possible.
I've used this method with my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ex-wives.
JD
*** A stamp
*** At least a 10 lb. sledge.
*** A concrete floor.
*** A wife or girlfriend.
Take the stamp, sledge, and wife to the garage. Have your wife get down on the floor and hold the stamp on the knife...WARNING..she may not want to do this. Make sure she uses two hands.
Close your eyes and hit the stamp as hard as possible.
I've used this method with my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd ex-wives.
JD