Markers for the shop

PEU

PEU

Gaucho Knifemaker
Joined
Aug 6, 2006
Messages
1,162
Its that time of the year again when many of us are rushing to finish knives for Bladeshow, in my case with the added inconvenience of flying from overseas :)
But also for me its the moment when I start filling my purchases cart with useful things for the shop from the US.

Been using Sharpies forever and also uni-paint for writing on oily steel. I wonder if there are better products, my ideal would be something as sharpie with some ability to write on slightly oiled surfaces and not be ruined for good.
What are you guys using for marking wood and steels? Thanks

Pablo
 
Pica makes a mechanical pencil that can take different leads. I like using the leads designed for waterjet/tile work. The markings are durable they hold up to heat and water very well. I use it primarily for putting layout lines on my handles before shaping.
 
IF you want to stay with a sharpie style magic marker, Klein makes a sharpie that's 10 times better writing on products like you mention. However it's not bulletproof. With that said any electrical supply or plumbing store that sells Klein tools should have them in stock.
 
Milwaukee also makes a sharpie style marker they call Inkzall. I bought some as they were on a cheap special but I like them at least as well as sharpies for writing on steel.
 
Not exactly what you are asking for, but sort of in the same area....

I have a strong machining background, I've been making chips since before I was 10 years old.

anyhow, my entire life I have been using Dykem layout/marking fluid.
last year I was running out, and I bought the Wolf brand of layout fluid from Pops. I'm sure they sell it elsewhere, too.

Wow! I really love it.
and I was always in love with Dykem, I used it all the time. I feel like I am cheating on my girlfriend, by saying that Wolf is Better.
 
I use the metal marker pens. They come in fine tip to wide tip. The white marker will survive HT. After HT is shows as black. I mark all steel on both sides and both ends. I mark blades on the tang and re-mark them as soon as I finish grinding. I haven't had a,"What steel was this????" moment since.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Not exactly what you are asking for, but sort of in the same area....

I have a strong machining background, I've been making chips since before I was 10 years old.

anyhow, my entire life I have been using Dykem layout/marking fluid.
last year I was running out, and I bought the Wolf brand of layout fluid from Pops. I'm sure they sell it elsewhere, too.

Wow! I really love it.
and I was always in love with Dykem, I used it all the time. I feel like I am cheating on my girlfriend, by saying that Wolf is Better.
Click to expand...
What makes it better? Just curious thought they’d be all the same.
 
Thescrawnylumberjack said:
What makes it better? Just curious thought they’d be all the same.
Click to expand...

I know, right????
The Wolf brand lays very thick, and coats evenly.

I don't remember not liking Dykem in the 90's, but lately, my last few bottles, I've kept wanting to put multiple costs on it, which also takes more time.

With the Wolf, I'm happy on the first coat.
*also, I like the aplicator sponge they use. It doesn't flicker out sprinkling layout fluid splatters all over my work area like the Dykem brush bristles do.

But mainly the even coating.
 
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I use the Inkzall Milwaukee markers as well; they seem to last a lot longer. Sharpie now has an XTreme version of their markers lately, too.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Not exactly what you are asking for, but sort of in the same area....

I have a strong machining background, I've been making chips since before I was 10 years old.

anyhow, my entire life I have been using Dykem layout/marking fluid.
last year I was running out, and I bought the Wolf brand of layout fluid from Pops. I'm sure they sell it elsewhere, too.

Wow! I really love it.
and I was always in love with Dykem, I used it all the time. I feel like I am cheating on my girlfriend, by saying that Wolf is Better.
Click to expand...
Important question, does it smell as good as Dykem? :) The odor of layout fluid, is right up there with the smell of Hoppes No.9 gun cleaning solvent, on my list of favorite shop aromas!
 
ak650 said:
Important question, does it smell as good as Dykem? :) The odor of layout fluid, is right up there with the smell of Hoppes No.9 gun cleaning solvent, on my list of favorite shop aromas!
Click to expand...

I hear Ya!

For me...... I also love Watco Danish oil finish.
I like dykem smell, too.

I don't recall Wolf smelling as Magical, so it must not?
 
harbor freight, hear me out, has some pretty gnarly durable markers for cheap. You can leave the cap off for over a day, and they write. Just another tough cookie to consider.
 
PEU said:
Its that time of the year again when many of us are rushing to finish knives for Bladeshow, in my case with the added inconvenience of flying from overseas :)
But also for me its the moment when I start filling my purchases cart with useful things for the shop from the US.

Been using Sharpies forever and also uni-paint for writing on oily steel. I wonder if there are better products, my ideal would be something as sharpie with some ability to write on slightly oiled surfaces and not be ruined for good.
What are you guys using for marking wood and steels? Thanks

Pablo
Click to expand...
If you want to stick with something similar to what you've been doing, Sharpie sells a version called "Sharpie Pro" that works on dirty/oily surfaces. I bought them initially for writing on slick packaging when I process deer meat, but discovered that they work beautifully in the shop too and so I've switched to using them exclusively in the shop now.
 
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PEU said:
Thanks a ton for the suggestions!

Pablo
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I remember last year you asked about clothing for the shop that you could get while here for Blade. I'd be interested in hearing what you decided on and how it worked out for ya?
 
Horsewright said:
I remember last year you asked about clothing for the shop that you could get while here for Blade. I'd be interested in hearing what you decided on and how it worked out for ya?
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I purchased 4 Carhartt coats via Amazon, received but the sizing was too big, the one I liked the most was the grey one (3rd from the top) will order in XL and XXL and see how they fit. Returned them all and I'll do the same again this year with these smaller sizes. I have one shot, I don't know why but these take a week to deliver, not the same speed as everyday items. And you can't easily find them in stores since is hot summer there lol. Thanks Dave!!

Pablo

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Gotcha. Yep Carhartt changed their sizing recently with this relaxed fit. In many brands I wear a 2XL or a 2XLT. I have a Carhartt coat with their new sizing and its a L and I still look like I wearing someone else's tent! I have quite a few other Carhartt older pieces and really like them and they hold up very well. They are very common in our ranching world too.
 
Oh, didn't know that, so I guess XL will work for me then, for shirts (love the Gildan brand) I use 3XL. Thanks!

Pablo
 
Horsewright said:
Gotcha. Yep Carhartt changed their sizing recently with this relaxed fit. In many brands I wear a 2XL or a 2XLT. I have a Carhartt coat with their new sizing and its a L and I still look like I wearing someone else's tent! I have quite a few other Carhartt older pieces and really like them and they hold up very well. They are very common in our ranching world too.
Click to expand...

It's true of a lot of brands. I recently ordered a bunch of summer weight oxford shirts in size Large and they might as well have been XXL's... fit like a tent.

I'm now relegated to ordering "slim fit" just so they fit like normal.
 
Then there's the other side. I've worn Pendleton wool western shirts for decades. Basically all I can remember my uncles and grandfather wearing certain times of the year in Oregon. The shirts are even labelled as High Grade Western Wear. I have worn their size XLT for years. One of the things I need to do as a rancher was to rope cattle. Roping requires quite a bit of arm movement. A few years back I was given a Pendleton shirt for Christmas in XLT. Still marked High Grade Western Wear. Put it on and the fit has completely changed. Couldn't get my elbow up past my shoulder they had leaned out the shoulder area so much. I went on Pendleton's website and they talked about how they had "modernized" the fit of their western shirts. Well maybe ok for a guy lifting a cup of coffee in a cubicle in Portland or Seattle. They might still be expensive but they sure as heck ain't High Grade "Western" Wear.

J92FtBV.jpg


My son cowboying in Oregon 14 years or so ago in the blue shirt. See his partner coming in to rope the heels on this calf in the green shirt. I literally can't raise my arm this much in my newest Pendleton. Its physically impossible. The shoulder area is all they changed, the rest of the shirt still fits as it should. Can't cowboy in that High Grade Western Wear for sure. Cup of coffee from the desk to your mouth, yep that'll work. Interestingly, my son has kind of come full circle. He has only ever been a working cowboy and has worked on ranches all over California, Oregon, Nevada and Arizona. 15 years into his career and he's back in this part of south eastern Oregon.
 
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