Marlinspike vs line sizes?

C

Clang!

Joined
Jul 26, 2010
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I do a lot of decorative knotwork, and I've been looking to add a marlinspike to my kit. Most the the time I'm working with 3-6mm diameter braided line. There's the occasional need to break up knots made from heavy 8-12mm line.

I've found a large variety of spikes with sizes ranging from <3" on a pocket knife up to >12 on a dedicated marlinspike. What size marlinespike goes with what size line?
 
I assume that you have a pocketknife version? I love my buck model and have seldom needed more for 1/8 to 1/4 lines and knots. Boy scout stuff mostly. I find those larger spikes really seem too big but did use a few cheap 1/2" by one foot?? knitting needles from walmart on larger ropes. Try it and see what you think, I'm looking forward to some others reply with more experience.
 
sharpguytoo said:
I assume that you have a pocketknife version? I love my buck model and have seldom needed more for 1/8 to 1/4 lines and knots. Boy scout stuff mostly.
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I don't yet have a marlinspike. That's why I'm asking. ATM my kit consists of
2 pairs of forceps
a pair of jewlers' round nose pliers
scissors
butane lighter
light and medium weight spools of twine for whipping
a variety of clothes pins and clips
tacky and applique craft glues
and a turks head knot board.

I've been using the pliers to prise apart the strands, then shoving the forceps through and working them back and forth to break up the knot. Something they're not really built for. Hence the need for a spike or a fid.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're talking about the Buck 315 which has a 3" by 1/4" (?) tapered spike. Any thoughts on the Davis Deluxe Rigging Knife or the Myerchin Marlin Spike, which seem to have comparable working lengths?
 
a marlinespike is probably going to be too thick to break up knots in the size line you are working with. Try an awl or ice pick.
 
Pete1977 said:
a marlinespike is probably going to be too thick to break up knots in the size line you are working with. Try an awl or ice pick.
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I might be able to use a blunted scratch awl, but an ice pick is going to bend and snap the first time I try to open a knot with it.

I know that I'm not the only Knot Head in these forums. What does everybody else use?
 
Carve some fids out of hardwood and try them out. At worst, you find what size fits. At best, they solve your problem.
 
I made spikes and fids with hard wood and they work well. You might also get various size Phillips screwdrivers from the $ bin at a parts store run a file over the ends till correct shape
 
When I was on ships all of the Deck Force had / used the Myerchin slipjoint or folding type pocket knives with the attached Marline Spike.

Not sure of the size but they seemed to use it on all sized lines up to 6" nylon lines.

Hope this helps. Wish I could tell you more but I was never a deck type but that's what they used.

Edit to add:

I'm going to reach out to a friend of mine who's a retired Boatswain's Mate with your question and see what he recommends.

I'll post it here when I hear back.
 
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pbcg said:
When I was on ships all of the Deck Force had / used the Myerchin slipjoint or folding type pocket knives with the attached Marline Spike.

Not sure of the size but they seemed to use it on all sized lines up to 6" nylon lines.

Hope this helps. Wish I could tell you more but I was never a deck type but that's what they used.

Edit to add:

I'm going to reach out to a friend of mine who's a retired Boatswain's Mate with your question and see what he recommends.

I'll post it here when I hear back.
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I appreciate it. I know that Myerchin makes an economical 6 5/8" marlin spike. Since I really don't need another dedicated multitool, that may be the best choice.
 
Clang! said:
I appreciate it. I know that Myerchin makes an economical 6 5/8" marlin spike. Since I really don't need another dedicated multitool, that may be the best choice.
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I sent him an e-mail. As soon as I hear back I'll post his reply. If anyone he'll know. He's retired as a Chief BM and was in charge of the deck Force on several ships and was a seamanship instructor.

Like I said will post any recommendation I get.
 
Clang! said:
I might be able to use a blunted scratch awl, but an ice pick is going to bend and snap the first time I try to open a knot with it.

I know that I'm not the only Knot Head in these forums. What does everybody else use?
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an icepick isn't made of ice. I don't know what kind of knots you are untying but i've used an icepick for decorative knot work and it never bent or snapped. 3-6 mm line is around 1/8 to 1/4 inch diameter. A marlinespike, even a folding one on a rigging pocket knife is meant for splicing and untying knots in rope, not the thin stuff you are using and is probably going to be too wide to get into the parts of the knot. If you are worried about the fragility of an ice pick or don't want to blunt an awl, you can always go to the hardware store and buy a length of thin rod stock and make a custom sized-down marlinespike for what you need it for.
 
OP, heard back from my friend. here's his reply:

As to the marlinespike seamanship and marlins spike sizes, that depends on the size line and type of cordage you are working with, plus user preferences, of course. A family friend own's ( Edited ) here in my neck of the woods, and has an excellent online instructional: http://www.neropes.com/SplicingGuideChoice.aspx

When I'm working with smaller braided lines, I like the 5mm tapered stainless steel spike, -without any sort of handle. When working with three-strand and poly, I use this tool as well, but when working with poly, there's some nylon spikes out there that I've seen folks use, and from what I've heard, work very well. Guess I'm old school, as I like a dedicated spike, separate from any handle, or knife configuration. For me, when I need to make a cut, I like a fixed blade, no serrations, with a broad and flat back to handle a dead blow strike from a mallet. -Tape the area to be cut of course, then strike with the knife blade/mallet for a clean, straight, accurate cut.
 
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Clang - I also do decorative knotwork and teach pioneering skills to our local Boy Scout troop. When looking for a marlinspike, don't pay attention to the size as much as the shape, especially at the tip. You are looking for something smooth that will slide under the cordage and has a point that is fine but not too pointed so that it doesn't catch on the line.

My alltime favorite marlinspike for small cordage (like paracord) up through 10mm lines is this one made by Myerchin. It is a solid hunk of stainless 440 steel that is absolutely a beautiful thing to use - and it looks nice as well. If I recall, I paid about $35 for it (including a leather sheath) a few years back.

Good luck!

TedP

In this picture, the marlinspike is on the bottom. You can buy it separate from the knife, and also get a dedicated sheath for it as well. Couldn't find a picture of it by itself, though...
B001%20set%2072.jpg
 
Be careful with Myerchin customer service. I had to return a small folder due to workmanship problems, and they refused to answer me back about reimbursing my return postage charges. I ended up eating a few extra bucks. They are quick to take your money, but unresponsive to general customer service practices. I do like their products as I have owned and used 3 of them so far.
 
Bfee and Thomas Linton – I have a sizable collection of 5/32 and 11/64 Port Orford Cedar arrow shaft parts that I could taper down into fids.

Pbcg and Phillipsted – Thanks, that’s what I was looking for. I’ve found the best advice tends to come from the “been there, done that for a living” guys.

Pete1977 – An icepick is fine for paracord, but will snap if I try to break up knots made from the heavier 8-12 mm line. The reason for this requirement is the last time I helped someone move some furniture, I was the one who brought the rope. He used knots I’ve never seen before, and they jammed so badly I had to cut them off. A good tapered spike would have enabled me to salvage longer sections of the rope.
 
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