Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
This is a very interesting blade, at first glance it is obvious that this isn't a simple machete. The thick steel near the base, is formed to a strong edge (~18 degrees per side), which works well for chopping in heavy woods, which even handled knots without any damage. It is also stiff enough in that region for a decent amount of leverage for chip removal. The distal taper allows the formation of a very fine tip (edge is around 6 degrees per side) for ultra high performance cutting and slicing through many materials, natural as well as man made, as well as working very well chopping through soft vegetation, such as leafy vegetation as well as various grasses.
The hump both provides the necessary mass for chopping, while also allowing usage as a rough beater, or even paddle / scoop. The handle is very high grade construction for a machete. There were no significant gaps nor cracks, and it was shaped for decent ergonomics and security. The attachment of the grip to the tang is flush, so there are no problems with recessed holes which can be abrasive and thus reduce comfort and security over long term use. The handle is also quite long which allows a front grip to shift the balance towards neutral for light cutting, as well as a far grip to increase power when heavy chopping.
The steel is about usual for these types of blades, 45-48 RC. This means it is quite readily filed. You will not get near the same level of crisp edge retention as you will find on ~58 RC knives. However the Jungle knife can easily take a days woodworking, and will just need a light steeling at the end to restore the blade to a full sharpness. Using a butchers steel to maintain the edge, and a file to reset it every few uses, will keep the edge at top performance, with just a few minutes work at the end of each day. The steel will rust readily if left wet, so oiling would be a sensible, how much this is needed depends on the environment. I generally just oil the edge, and clean the flats periodically and let a patina develop.
The only note of caution I would make is that since the edge is very fine near the tip, you can roll and/or dent it quite readily if you use it for wood chopping on small branches, or hit knots while chopping large woods. if you want to use the knife in this manner, then all you need to do is add a secondary bevel to the end near the tip at an angle suited to your skill level and wood type. Since you are increasing the angle, instead of trying to slim it down which is more common, you are only talking about a few minutes with a file. However, if you are doing harder wood work in general, the Golok pattern would probably be more suitable.
Martindale has a lot more patterns available, which you can check out at the following web site :
http://www.ralphmartindale.co.uk/ralphmartindale/brochure.html
or contact them through the following :
Ken Vokes
Ralph Martindale (Birmingham) Ltd
Tel: + 44 (0) 121 681 4040
Fax: + 44 (0) 121 333 3273
E-Mail: KVokes@RalpmMartindale.com
Also check out the Cutsforth Knives website, which sells the machetes, and Daren is a knowledgeable guy with outstanding customer service.
http://www.cutsforthknives.com/cutsforth_knife_machete_and_axe_001.htm
More details :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/jungle_knife.html
-Cliff
The hump both provides the necessary mass for chopping, while also allowing usage as a rough beater, or even paddle / scoop. The handle is very high grade construction for a machete. There were no significant gaps nor cracks, and it was shaped for decent ergonomics and security. The attachment of the grip to the tang is flush, so there are no problems with recessed holes which can be abrasive and thus reduce comfort and security over long term use. The handle is also quite long which allows a front grip to shift the balance towards neutral for light cutting, as well as a far grip to increase power when heavy chopping.
The steel is about usual for these types of blades, 45-48 RC. This means it is quite readily filed. You will not get near the same level of crisp edge retention as you will find on ~58 RC knives. However the Jungle knife can easily take a days woodworking, and will just need a light steeling at the end to restore the blade to a full sharpness. Using a butchers steel to maintain the edge, and a file to reset it every few uses, will keep the edge at top performance, with just a few minutes work at the end of each day. The steel will rust readily if left wet, so oiling would be a sensible, how much this is needed depends on the environment. I generally just oil the edge, and clean the flats periodically and let a patina develop.
The only note of caution I would make is that since the edge is very fine near the tip, you can roll and/or dent it quite readily if you use it for wood chopping on small branches, or hit knots while chopping large woods. if you want to use the knife in this manner, then all you need to do is add a secondary bevel to the end near the tip at an angle suited to your skill level and wood type. Since you are increasing the angle, instead of trying to slim it down which is more common, you are only talking about a few minutes with a file. However, if you are doing harder wood work in general, the Golok pattern would probably be more suitable.
Martindale has a lot more patterns available, which you can check out at the following web site :
http://www.ralphmartindale.co.uk/ralphmartindale/brochure.html
or contact them through the following :
Ken Vokes
Ralph Martindale (Birmingham) Ltd
Tel: + 44 (0) 121 681 4040
Fax: + 44 (0) 121 333 3273
E-Mail: KVokes@RalpmMartindale.com
Also check out the Cutsforth Knives website, which sells the machetes, and Daren is a knowledgeable guy with outstanding customer service.
http://www.cutsforthknives.com/cutsforth_knife_machete_and_axe_001.htm
More details :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/jungle_knife.html
-Cliff