Marttiini Puukko

C

Cam T

Joined
Dec 7, 2022
Messages
18
Just picked this Puukko. Thought it was a filleting knife because of the sheath, but glad I investigated. The handle is gorgeous spalted birch and the blade has the lapland scene engraved on one side and Arcadian Copper Mine Tour on the other side. Really appreciating this knife with the copper fittings and the swelled palm grip. It's interesting how the blade is canted left of centre in order to bring it alignment when held in the right hand. I also appreciate how the pommel is pretty much flush to the sheath so it doesn't catch on things. This ones going into my camping gear.

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Not a puukko. Its called Lapinleuku. Marttiini has made them for many years in several sizes and configurations.......
A0lVkr3.jpg

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Usually these are fairly straight. The bend seems to be from the way the tang was inserted into the handle.
 
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John A. Larsen said:
Interesting find. I looked up that mine you mentioned. It was not working, if I read right after about 1908, BUT was a tourist attraction for tours from the 1950's to the 1970's, so must have some age to it. John
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I wonder if the mine ordered custom copper ferrels and pommels. Regardless, what a nice tchotchke.
 
Arathol said:
Not a puukko. Its called Lapinleuku. Marttiini has made them for many years in several sizes and configurations.......
A0lVkr3.jpg

S4M9Elq.jpg
768dX8Q.jpg




Usually these are fairly straight. The bend seems to be from the way the tang was inserted into the handle.
Click to expand...
Wow, what a collection. I take it that Lapinleuku has a scandi grind. Any thoughts on using a Lansky system to put the edge back on the blade?
 
Cam T said:
Wow, what a collection. I take it that Lapinleuku has a scandi grind. Any thoughts on using a Lansky system to put the edge back on the blade?
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No and no......The older ones made before the "scandi grind" was invented are convexed, do not use a Lansky or any other system that will put a flat bevel on the blade. Best way is a piece of 1x4 with strip of leather glued to it. Use this as a base, lay some emery paper on it and strop it like a straight razor using 200 or 400 grit to set the edge, then 600 or 800 grit to fine tune. Keep the leather charged with jewelers rouge, use it as a stop to finish the edge.
In the picture, the knife 6th from the left is a newer model 240 that is made from flat stock with a beveled edge. That one you can do with a Lansky.
 
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Arathol said:
No and no......The older ones made before the "scandi grind" was invented are convexed, do not use a Lansky or any other system that will put a flat bevel on the blade. Best way is a piece of 1x4 with strip of leather glued to it. Use this as a base, lay some emery paper on it and strop it like a straight razor using 200 or 400 grit to set the edge, then 600 or 800 grit to fine tune. Keep the leather charged with jewelers rouge, use it as a stop to finish the edge.
In the picture, the knife 6th from the left is a newer model 240 that is made from flat stock with a beveled edge. That one you can do with a Lansky.
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Wow, you're the authority, when it comes to Lapinleuku. That really is a strength of this forum. Thanks for the info.
 
Arathol said:
No and no......The older ones made before the "scandi grind" was invented are convexed, do not use a Lansky or any other system that will put a flat bevel on the blade. Best way is a piece of 1x4 with strip of leather glued to it. Use this as a base, lay some emery paper on it and strop it like a straight razor using 200 or 400 grit to set the edge, then 600 or 800 grit to fine tune. Keep the leather charged with jewelers rouge, use it as a stop to finish the edge.
In the picture, the knife 6th from the left is a newer model 240 that is made from flat stock with a beveled edge. That one you can do with a Lansky.
Click to expand...
Does this go for puukkos as well as leukus?
 
screened porch said:
Does this go for puukkos as well as leukus?
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That would depend on the knife. Some are flat ground with a microbevel, some a more or less convexed like they were done on a slack-belt, some more recent ones are slightly hollow ground.
This old Jarvenpaa is more or less convexed
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This old Marttiini Ilves is flat with a very small micro bevel
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Other makers are different. However, for the most part you can use the sand paper and strop to sharpen most knives. Best way with these is get the edge as close to zero as you can, then make a few higher angle passes on the fine grit to form a microbevel then strop it....
 
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