Massive stock removal

[Marcus]

I have some rather large "choppers" in the works. They`re broad blades of 3/8" 5160 that are getting a full convex grind. Needless to say I`m removing a LOT of steel. My little 1x42 belt grinder isn`t up to it except for finish work so I`ve dome much of it with an 8" hand grinder and 36grit stones. Even this is slow work. Any ideas on how I can rough grind these blanks faster without spending a fortune? Marcus

 

[Corduroy]

That's quite a bit to remove. I did a 15" machete on my 2"x42" once, and that was just from 3/16" stock... a lot of work.

Have you tried a big mill file? You might be surprised how much material a quality 10" mill file removes each pass.

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-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)

 

[Alan Folts]

What I would suggest would be an angle rinder with a coarse, for steel, stone wheel..

You can ususally get these affordable and they are real handy cause you can buy large cuttoff wheels for them too.

Just take your time with an angle grinder and be carefull, the sparks like to start fires...

Thats the quickest way I know to take off a lot of steel.

Watch how fast you grind with them cause you can build up an awful lot of heat with one and I dont know what you are planning to do about heat treatment..

Alan Folts...

 

[Ivan Campos]

Hope you have a lot of pacience. I have just bough a new grinder, a 2x48, but until now I have been using a tiny 1x30 and believe me, I am glad I never have to grind anything as thick with it, because grinding a 1/8" convex edge camp knife is already a big and boring chore in the slack belt, though I haven´t found the same problem using a flat platen for the chisel ground blades I make, except for the large number of belts I am forced to use.
Best regards and good luck with your projects!

Ivan Campos

 

[Ruppe]

Alan is right. Get an angle grinder. 39-40$ I made a 40" machete with one. I finished it on my Burr King and wore a groove in the work table moving the blade back and forth.

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Ron Ruppé
www.ruppe.com/Knives/index.htm

 

[Marcus]

I was afraid of this. I was hoping there was something simple I missed.

I guess I`ll just have to look and see if I can find some even coarser stone wheels for my hand held angle grinder. Thanks for the input though. Marcus

 

[george tichbourne]

When you go to the store to pick up grinder discs ask for discs that are specifically made for steel or possibly stainless steel.

There are several compositions used in grinding discs and the major metal working suppliers can set you up with a disc that meets your grinding job exactly. The use of a disc matched to the job instead of a general purpose variety can reduce grinding time by as much as 50% in my experience.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 

[Walter]

I don't know if this will be of any help at all, but I've used an oxy-acetlyn (sp) torch to rough out blade blanks, this can be found relatively cheaply.

 

[Marcus]

You`re right they are a huge help! That`s what I use to rough cut the blanks and make large lightening holes in the tangs. I wouldn`t be making knives this big without it.

Marcus

 

[Snickersnee]

If you're set up for acetelyne, you may try getting a forging nozzle. I couldn't tell you who makes one anymore, if anybody, but the look like a regular tip, but several of them all lined up if you get my drift.

Anyway, forging is a lot easier for doing big pieces like that, if you're set up for it.