Matching edge angles

A

Artilary6

Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
132
I just got the Sharpmaker and i'm a newb to sharpening. I tried it out and noticed that the edge angle of the knife isn't 40 deg, so it isnt getting sharp at all becuase the V-rods are trying to shave off a ton of metal in order to work their way down to the edge. This is probly a common problem, is it not?

What are you supposed to do in order to get your knives to match the sharpmaker's 40deg angle? Should I find some coarser triangle stones? I really don't have the money right now to spend on the diamond stones for the sharpmaker ($100). I just bought a Green Beret and Sharpmaker and 2 additional ultra fine stones and if I get a $100.00 package in the mail any time soon my wife will murder me.

So, angle matching is what i'm struggling with right now, it takes forever for those medium grit stones work all that metal down to an even 40deg. Also, when I am using the sharpmaker and making my passes, when I get to the tip of the blade the knife flings to the right, causing the tip to scrape along the stone. I am noticing that its grinding the point from the side, which will probly blunt it completely before too long. I had read of this being a problem for noobs, so I am practicing with a less expensive knife that I wont be too upset about if it doesn't come out perfect.

Any ideas?
 
Buy some 120 grit Wet-or-Dry (silicon carbide grit) sandpaper and some 3M Scotch Brand plastic double-sticky tape. Cut the sandpaper into strips as wide as the honing rods. Clean your white rods using hot water and sink scouring powder. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Use long strips of double-sticky tape to secure strips of sandpaper to the two white rods. Only do this to a single side of each rod and leave a bare patch on the rods so that they fit in the slots in the base. Now use this 120-grit surface to change the bevel on your blade. You might need to change paper before you are done. Personally I would do this in the 30 degree slots rather than the 40 degree slots. A 40 degree edge doesn't cut well.
 
I attach the wet/dry a little different, but the idea is the same as what Jeff Clark said. Also, I too think it's better to go for the more shallow 15deg so you can use the 30 degree slots.

Another thing you can do, if you want to go more shallow than 30 or more steep than 40, or somewhere inbetween the two, is: use small strips of wood (or stacked cardboard or whatever) to raise one end of the Sharpmaker. For example, I like some edges to be 12.5 degrees (25 degrees), so I found that a 1/4" spacer, about 4" long, and placed strategically under one end of the Sharpmaker, gives me 25 degrees when using the 30deg holes. You just have to remember to switch the block to the other side after so many strokes to do the other edge.
 
OMG sandpaper on the rods!!! That sounds like the PERFECT cost effective solution. Can't thank you enough. So simple yet I would have never thought of it. Hardheart, thank you for bringin the more coarse rods to my attention. If I find some for a reasonable price, I very well might go that route instead of sand paper as it would be a cleaner setup and avoid sticky stuff getting on my other rods. Either solution sounds great. I doubt I will be able to resist the cost effectivness of the sand paper though. About the 30deg bevel...The idea is to have a full 30deg bevel with a 40deg microbevel right? Or could I also use just a full 30? My aim here is to eventually sharpen my Green Beret once I am good enough to not screw it up. Would 30deg be too shallow/fragile for a heavier duty knife like this? Should I do a little chopping here and there on some wood, I would hate to have that edge break down much faster than a 40. What do you think about this?

Thanks again for the super tips!
 
I use a x-coarse DMT stone which I lean against the sharpmaker rods (well to be honest, I have 5 different x-coarse stones that I can throw at the problem but this it what I do when I am using the Sharpmaker especially when travelling). It works very well and in the long run is cheaper than sandpaper. They go for about $30, e.g. here: http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5184
When rebeveling you don't need to do alternating strokes. You can take 50 strokes up and down on one side and then 50 strokes up and down (you can use both ways not just down but also up) on the other side and repeat if necessary till you have pulled up a burr. Of course, once you notice that you are getting closer, it is better to reduce the number of strokes you are taking on each side. As always, watch your fingers especially on the right side if you are right handed.
 
I don;t think 30 degrees is too steep for your knives, in fact, I think 40 is too shallow!

Too avoid stickiness on the rods, here's what I do: take some medium black binder clips (office supply) and cut the width of your wet/dry wide enough to allow it to wrap around the Sharpmaker rods...at least far enough so the clamps have something to grab onto. Before clamping, lay the paper down (back side facing up) with one of your rods positioned on it. Then form the wet/dry nicely around the corner of the rods. THis way, you'll have a nice, flat surface when you mount the rods. Don;t use the corners, just the flat facings of the rods.
 
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