Maxamet and Work Sharp

S

Strauss95

Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Messages
161
I thinking about picking up my first maxamet knife and am curious about sharpening. I use a Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment along with the stiff belts, and I strop with poly diamond spray on balsa and leather.

I consider myself a very experienced sharpener since I've done hundreds of knives and can get hair whittling results. I just wanted to make sure my belts will cut the maxamet. I don't have anything that wear resistant and have read some horror stories about sharpening. I don't have any issues with M4, but I know maxamet is on another level.
 
Diamond for maxamet. You'll just be wasting money on belts otherwise.
 
Well due to its extreme wear resistance, along with rotating my edc, I shouldn't have to take it to the belts very often. I use my stops religiously to keep my edges in tip top shape.

But I would want to reprofile the edge immediately, so I just needed to know if the work sharp belts would cut it.
 
Strauss95 said:
I thinking about picking up my first maxamet knife and am curious about sharpening. I use a Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment along with the stiff belts, and I strop with poly diamond spray on balsa and leather.

I consider myself a very experienced sharpener since I've done hundreds of knives and can get hair whittling results. I just wanted to make sure my belts will cut the maxamet. I don't have anything that wear resistant and have read some horror stories about sharpening. I don't have any issues with M4, but I know maxamet is on another level.
Click to expand...

Get a diamond or cbn waterstone.
 
Strauss95 said:
I thinking about picking up my first maxamet knife and am curious about sharpening. I use a Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment along with the stiff belts, and I strop with poly diamond spray on balsa and leather.

I consider myself a very experienced sharpener since I've done hundreds of knives and can get hair whittling results. I just wanted to make sure my belts will cut the maxamet. I don't have anything that wear resistant and have read some horror stories about sharpening. I don't have any issues with M4, but I know maxamet is on another level.
Click to expand...

I have a Spyderco Maxamet... I haven't done any major work on it... but did use the "stiff" belts on the BGA from 800-3000 to even the bevels a bit, (probably lowered them a degree or less in the process), and refine the edge... and it worked well for me. I don't "whittle hair"... but it "lawnmowers" arm hair... ;), and definitely sharper than the factory edge (which was actually pretty sharp). I don't think it's quite as polished... although I didn't spend a lot of time on it. I had no issues with chipping or some of the other problems I've heard of during sharpening. Anyway that's my limited experience.

My question to those who say "diamond or cbn" only for Maxamet... is that what companies like Spyderco do? 'Cause the factory bevel looked like a regular sharpening to me. Or do you suggest this to reach a "higher level" of sharpness?
 
Last edited:

cbwx34 said:
I have a Spyderco Maxamet... I haven't done any major work on it... but did use the "stiff" belts on the BGA from 800-3000 to even the bevels a bit, (probably lowered them a degree or less in the process), and refine the edge... and it worked well for me. I don't "whittle hair"... but it "lawnmowers" arm hair... ;), and definitely sharper than the factory edge (which was actually pretty sharp). I don't think it's quite as polished... although I didn't spend a lot of time on it. I had no issues with chipping or some of the other problems I've heard of during sharpening. Anyway that's my limited experience.

My question to those who say "diamond or cbn" only for Maxamet... is that what companies like Spyderco do? 'Cause the factory bevel looked like a regular sharpening to me. Or do you suggest this to reach a "higher level" of sharpness?
Click to expand...
 
cbwx34 said:
I have a Spyderco Maxamet... I haven't done any major work on it... but did use the "stiff" belts on the BGA from 800-3000 to even the bevels a bit, (probably lowered them a degree or less in the process), and refine the edge... and it worked well for me. I don't "whittle hair"... but it "lawnmowers" arm hair... ;), and definitely sharper than the factory edge (which was actually pretty sharp). I don't think it's quite as polished... although I didn't spend a lot of time on it. I had no issues with chipping or some of the other problems I've heard of during sharpening. Anyway that's my limited experience.

My question to those who say "diamond or cbn" only for Maxamet... is that what companies like Spyderco do? 'Cause the factory bevel looked like a regular sharpening to me. Or do you suggest this to reach a "higher level" of sharpness?
Click to expand...
Spyderco use robots to sharpen the knives on silicon carbide belts. Up to 300-400 grit.

SiC is a good abrasive up to 1k on knives that have that much Vanadium in it. Unfortunately Vanadium is harder than sic so your really just sharpening the matrix of steel around the Vanadium. Check out the SEM images of carbide tear out that can happen on higher grits past 3k with alumina oxide and SiC.

In any case it can sharpen it fine. The main reason to use diamond is that it's just faster and doesn't waste your money buying new belts with 67hrc steel with a huge amount of Vanadium in it. Diamond stones just eat it for lunch and keep going and last forever if you don't apply too much pressure. Your more than likely going to get even more edge retention too due to that apex being more crisp and it able to sharpen the Vanadium at the tip.
 
Last edited:
DeadboxHero said:
Click to expand...

The video partially answers the question... that you can get a great edge with CBN or diamond (of course depending on skill too). But is it necessary? I saw your video where you sharpened Maxamet on a cheap stone and got chipping... but I'm sure by now you saw the "Super Steel Steve - Live Sharpening" marathon video... where he got chipping in a Maxamet blade on a diamond (DMT) stone duplicating your method of sharpening... that he was able to correct by sharpening more perpendicular to the edge. (As a side note, I've used some of the cheaper stones coming out, and don't think they're a good test result... a better test would be on a decent stone, not a $5 one).

Mo2 said:
Spyderco use robots to sharpen the knives on silicon carbide belts. Up to 300-400 grit.

SiC is a good abrasive up to 1k on knives that have that much Vanadium in it. Unfortunately Vanadium is harder than sic so your really just sharpening the matrix of steel around the Vanadium. Check out the SEM images of carbide tear out that can happen on higher grits past 3k with alumina oxide and SiC.

In any case it can sharpen it fine. The main reason to use diamond is that it's just faster and doesn't waste your money buying new belts with 67hrc steel with a huge amount of Vanadium in it. Diamond stones just eat it for lunch and keep going and last forever if you don't apply too much pressure. Your more than likely going to get even more edge retention too due to that apex being more crisp and it able to sharpen the Vanadium at the tip.
Click to expand...

While I haven't done much in this regard... to sharpen/maintain one blade... I don't believe will cost you much in "belt money". I saw no evidence of chipping in the blade after the 3000g belt... but there is an obvious difference in level of finish (less) vs. the 3000g finish in DBH's video.

So, I guess to add a bit more to the original question... my .02 is it should work... just not sure to the level you may be accustom to?
 
SuperSteel steves a cool guy but if he got issues sharpening Maxamet he's doing it wrong. Just sayin.
 
Worksharp it up then :thumbsup:





cbwx34 said:
The video partially answers the question... that you can get a great edge with CBN or diamond (of course depending on skill too). But is it necessary? I saw your video where you sharpened Maxamet on a cheap stone and got chipping... but I'm sure by now you saw the "Super Steel Steve - Live Sharpening" marathon video... where he got chipping in a Maxamet blade on a diamond (DMT) stone duplicating your method of sharpening... that he was able to correct by sharpening more perpendicular to the edge. (As a side note, I've used some of the cheaper stones coming out, and don't think they're a good test result... a better test would be on a decent stone, not a $5 one).



While I haven't done much in this regard... to sharpen/maintain one blade... I don't believe will cost you much in "belt money". I saw no evidence of chipping in the blade after the 3000g belt... but there is an obvious difference in level of finish (less) vs. the 3000g finish in DBH's video.

So, I guess to add a bit more to the original question... my .02 is it should work... just not sure to the level you may be accustom to?
Click to expand...
 
For others that are reading this thread and need good information I have a responsibility to share about this subject to help those that don't know any better.

Please don't use the workshop belt sander on your nice maxamet knives. It is more prone to rounding off your tips if you're not practiced with following the curve of the edge on the belt.

MOST Importantly

The ceramic doesn't have the horsepower to cut the Maxamet very well, it will be sharp but the edge is more fatigued from burnishing and will be less crisp and have less endurance.

Convex should be avoided if you want pure cutting performance.

Also, it just removes too much steel per session reducing the life of your knife.

If your going to use a system and aren't into Free hand please use an edge pro system with @Diemaker "Diamond Matrix Waterstones"

Worksharp also makes a bench sharpening system that helps teach you freehand. I recommend that. Just not any of the worksharp belt sanders. I speak from experience, I own the Ken Onion version.

My opinion,
There is no point in using Maxamet if it's not going to be cut and maintained properly. If it's too much trouble just use another steel.

10v, k390, s110v are more forgiving.

It's when you have extreme hardness (67rc plus)combined with high carbide volume (15% hard phase MC type) that run into trouble.


YMMV

No hard feelings, just my hard earned experience.
 
DeadboxHero said:
For others that are reading this thread and need good information I have a responsibility to share about this subject to help those that don't know any better.

Please don't use the workshop belt sander on your nice maxamet knives. It is more prone to rounding off your tips if you're not practiced with following the curve of the edge on the belt.

MOST Importantly

The ceramic doesn't have the horsepower to cut the Maxamet very well, it will be sharp but the edge is more fatigued from burnishing and will be less crisp and have less endurance.

Convex should be avoided if you want pure cutting performance.

Also, it just removes too much steel per session reducing the life of your knife.

If your going to use a system and aren't into Free hand please use an edge pro system with @Diemaker "Diamond Matrix Waterstones"

Worksharp also makes a bench sharpening system that helps teach you freehand. I recommend that. Just not any of the worksharp belt sanders. I speak from experience, I own the Ken Onion version.

My opinion,
There is no point in using Maxamet if it's not going to be cut and maintained properly. If it's too much trouble just use another steel.

10v, k390, s110v are more forgiving.

It's when you have extreme hardness (67rc plus)combined with high carbide volume (15% hard phase MC type) that run into trouble.


YMMV

No hard feelings, just my hard earned experience.
Click to expand...

I don't disagree with any of the sharpening comments. I don't think your comments about the WorkSharp really apply to the BGA setup however.

I'm actually getting good performance from the knife without issue... but I'll readily admit I'm not a "pure cutting performance" person... just want a knife to cut what I want without issue.

Thanks for the input. Any comment on what "Super Steel Steve" discovered?
 
We talked about it on the phone. Steve is a close friend. It's a really complex subject.

There are a lot of variables to rule out that me and Steve discussed that I don't have the time to go into the detail it needs to do it justice.

I like that Steve is putting out as much information he can, but it's easy to misconstrue what he is trying to share as an absolute. All of us that share information on social media notice that what we say is used as "the end all be all" when all we are doing is merely exploring grey areas and sharing the journey.

Sounds like a great topic for a video.

I'll save it for when I get my custom Maxamet and Rex121 blades finished.

Yeah man, just do whatever works for ya. No big deal. I realize I can come off like a snob sometimes cause I'm so geeked out but I'm pretty easy going.

Shawn,
BBB


cbwx34 said:
I don't disagree with any of the sharpening comments. I don't think your comments about the WorkSharp really apply to the BGA setup however.

I'm actually getting good performance from the knife without issue... but I'll readily admit I'm not a "pure cutting performance" person... just want a knife to cut what I want without issue.

Thanks for the input. Any comment on what "Super Steel Steve" discovered?
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top