May have voided my warranty, pics or didn't happen, not worried no regrets

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Mar 12, 2017
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Absolutely have NO intention of defaming, discrediting, or disproving any claim made by Busse knife group. Still believe the claims, still highly impressed, still love the knives, and may have found one more impressive thing. Blame any and all damage on myself and poor technique. I DO NOT recommend what I did at all for any reason. If you damage your Busse contact them and/or send the knife in for repair. I simply lacked the patience of filing a claim, sending my knife in etc. I finally did it. I damaged both by War Train and my MOFO. I don't have pics because I have already done the repairs and can not provide an accurate photographic record of my happenings. Many apologies. Just simply sharing my (possibly DUMB) mileage. Also, note that both are BG SR-101.

I was tearing up some old pallets with my MOFO for fun because why not. I accidentally wacked the crap out of a nail in the pallet and chipped at least half a very small section of the MOFO's microbevel. For repair I began sharpening the microbevel at various angles (awkward human hands) with a chainsaw file until the chip "moved" down to the latter part of the edge, in other words, most of the microbevel restored,. I then swiped the knife across a fine diamond stone to wear down the edge and "remove" the chip by leveling the surface (grinding at an all out 90 degree angle). I then sharpened like normal and ended up with a somewhat convexed v ground edge that is back to being characteristically razor sharp. I then cut leather, cardboard, rope, chopped bamboo etc. every little thing I could to dull that edge and after all was said and done a few swipes over a fine ceramic rod brought the knife back to razor sharp. I was very impressed that the edge could easily be repaired by hand and that once repaired the edge stayed repaired and in true fighting form.

For the War Train I was back at that ole pressure treated piling in a section full of knots and sand. After I chopped through that section I examined the edge for damage and saw that all of the micro bevel and a small bit of the primary bevel just above the micro was bent/ dinged in two sections. I ran my fingers across the plane of the blade and felt the two dings just to be sure light and my eyes weren't playing tricks on me and the blade was definitely bent in those two small places. I knew that a sharpener wouldn't just bend the metal back or make it level without removing a terrible amount of material. I debated contacting Busse and having them repair it and decided, fudge it, I have an anvil and a blacksmith's hammer, I'm impatient and I can repair this. So, I layed the War train down and began lightly tapping along the edge going back and forth side to side concentrating on the bent areas and continuing to go along the edge so the concentration in the two dings didn't push the metal around all weird and to keep the edge consistent and straight. After about thirty minutes the edge was back true. After straightening the edge I sharpened like normal fine diamond/ fine ceramic and I could detect no more warping along the edge. Didn't take long and the WTF was razor sharp again.

I know this is a risky post. I could be banned and blasted beyond all reason, but I'd rather be honest and share my mileage and don't care about the internet that much anyway. I have damaged many other blades the same way and either couldn't repair them because they broke, took way too much work and seemingly required something that would destroy Heat Treatment. Or it was simply way too time consuming and very very difficult. Each blade took about an hour of steady careful work and they were back like they should be as best as my unprofessional, non-knife maker self could tell. I am impressed and tickled pink at how easy they were to repair and even more impressed that the repairs are true and last. Busse knives are truly amazing in what they can take and just how little down time you have before they're back like new.
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Not a big deal, nobody is gonna ban you for fixing your edge. Now maybe break up that wall of text into paragraphs to make it easier to read. lol.
 
Knowing how to fix an edge is an important aspect of knife ownership. Good on you for using and maintaining them.
 
I've found a good sharpening actually helps to prevent a lot of so called damage to the blade of a Busse user be it infi or sr101. Good job
 
Much more readable thank you, and really don't sweat using your knives. Beat on them, cut stuff thats what there made for. The MOFO is my favorite, the handle just fits my hand perfect.
 
I don't think you have anything to worry about at all brother! Way to get out there and beat on them!! :thumbup:

Sent you an email too Korean Hog, just a head's up since BF email can be a little screwy and/or it could hit your junk folder.
 
If you search the forum .Y first experience with Busse was the Rattlehawk's which I used as a can opener on an old late 80s rx-7. I then messed up resharpening it and sent it back with full disclosure. They reprofile it and sent it back. Gotta love Busse.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I don't think you have anything to worry about at all brother! Way to get out there and beat on them!! :thumbup:

Sent you an email too Korean Hog, just a head's up since BF email can be a little screwy and/or it could hit your junk folder.

I didn't see any emails :confused:
 
First off, good for you for being able to fix your blade damage yourself. This forum is full of good people, you are not going to get blasted around here for coming and posting up your actual findings, especially when you are courteous and respectful, which you certainly seem to be. I do wish you had taken some pics of the damage though, I would have liked to have seen what it looked like. I'm actually quite surprised that you had any damage extending into the primary bevel on your WTF since it's so thick behind the edge (mine is at least). I have really beaten on mine with no damage whatsoever extending to the primary bevel. I have experienced minor deformation / bending on some of my blades with a stock edge, as have others around here; consensus seems to be that since they are belt sharpened the the steel is possibly a bit weak on the edge initially. After a few sharpenings and getting to new steel the edge tends to strengthen, which supports that theory. At any rate, continue to use your Busse's hard and enjoy them, don't hold back! If you ever do happen to cause some damage that you can't or don't want to fix yourself, send it in and they will take care of you.
 
Never mind just got it. :D

:thumbup: -Like I said, a little screwy. :)

Was the damage on your blades confined to the edge bevel or did it go higher? I'd also be surprised if you had any bending or "ripples" up into the factory primary grind.
 
:thumbup: -Like I said, a little screwy. :)

Was the damage on your blades confined to the edge bevel or did it go higher? I'd also be surprised if you had any bending or "ripples" up into the factory primary grind.

I did have a little warping up in to the primary bevel real good in one place and just a little around the belly where the blade sweeps up. It didn't go up very far and seemed to go back in place quite easily. I performed some more chopping after the repair on the same log (go figure) and had no damage and the edge was straight and sharp. My guess was similar to what zmbhntr just told me about where the metal is a bit weak on the edge to begin with. I consider all this "damage" to just be a break in period. I've been chopping glove-less too so that I can build up some nice callouses and don't have to wear sweaty gloves. Like I said, break in period :D
 
I did have a little warping up in to the primary bevel real good in one place and just a little around the belly where the blade sweeps up. It didn't go up very far and seemed to go back in place quite easily.

Sounds like you must have been going pretty dang hard on them if that's the case!! :eek:

I still want to make sure there's no mixing of terms though because you also wrote:

...all of the micro bevel and a small bit of the primary bevel just above the micro was bent/ dinged in two sections.

Generally, I think in terms of: micro bevel>edge bevel>primary grind (coated part). So you're essentially saying that the entire edge bevel and a small bit of the primary grind was bent/dinged?

In other words, I'm a little confused because you referenced micro and primary, but not the edge bevel. Just want to make sure we're on the same page.
 
Not that any of you guys don't know, cause Nate surely does...but I personally feel like defining some terms to <maybe> standardize the working vocabulary to get everyone on the same page in this thread...so please indulge me, and suffer for a moment: :o

Primary Grind <or bevel> is the first grind the maker grinds from the flat stock...some think of it as the "hollow" of the blade, esp. on a hollow ground blade.

Secondary Grind <or bevel> is the second grind the maker grinds from the primary bevel...it is what most folks would call the "edge"

Microbevel can be described as a tertiary very small grind applied to the secondary bevel...for example Spyderco SharpMaker sharpening system is designed to grind the secondary bevel at 15 dps <30 deg inclusive>, with a slightly more obtuse 20 dps <40 deg. inclusive> microbevel, or what Sal Glesser calls the "working edge." Some users like to employ a microbevel to "clean up" an edge or very carefully grind away a burr. :thumbup:

Apex is the very edge part of the secondary bevel or microbevel, if ground...the very leading cutting edge of the blade-- actually made up of mere molecules of steel.
 
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I don't know why you think you would get banned. If anything good on you for using your knife.

I have heard many people say that many edges from the factory come ground overheated and thus heat treat is affected. A goood sharpening that eats some of the factory edge steel is supposed to expose better steel. I don't know how Busse is made or ground so I don't know if this applies at all here.
 
I apologize if I have mismatched terms or confused anyone. Based upon the above definitions ( thank you PeteyTwoPointOne) my chopping warped both the primary grind and the secondary grind (so then definitely the micro and apex). I just got the knife not long ago and figured it'd be a lot less headache to just pound it back straight as best I could. I realize "pound it straight" doesn't imply much finesse and/ or skill, but I did the best I could and whatever I did with my hammer and sharpening rods seems to have fixed the problem. Again, I am certain at this point that I have mix matched correct terminology if not gotten my vocabulary just plain wrong and apologize for the confusion, but I definitely warped the primary grind. Not all the way up and it's not like the whole knife is bent/ warped. But I'd say around 1/4" up and 1/2" long section (give or take) of the primary grind was warped.
 
Thank you for clarifying. I'm really impressed with the beating you must have given them, and with your willingness to repair them yourself! Note to self: stay away from hard, knotty, pressure-treated lumber :D

The times I warped the primary grind on a couple of different blades, they were probably much thinner and the damage went much further up, like half to three quarters of an inch. I wasn't able to pound them completely straight again.
 
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