Maybe a stupid question, cutting D2 or O-1

L

Lothar.OTHP

Joined
May 6, 2001
Messages
458
Hi,

My name is James, I live up in Boston. I've had a thing for D2 blades on a few of my knives, figured I'd start by trying to work with that.

I'm also a woodworker, so I'm starting by doing a simple, hollow ground tanto-ish profile that's flat on one side, pretty much like an emerson, only flat on the left side of the blade, so that I can use it more like a chisel when I'm doing things with wood.

I have a few pieces of D2, and one of O-1. I have a book or two on grinding, and random bits of knife making stuff.

I've heard people talking about using various exotic methods of cutting for certain steels, so I'm curious what the "preferred" methods for cutting D2 are going to be, as well as O-1. I don't know if sitting down with a dremel tool and heating up the steel is a good idea or not... or what a simple 6" bench grinder would do... or if any heat issues would be rendered moot by heat treatment.

Also, I'm curious to know where I shoudl look to get blades heat treated. I'm sure some places do a better job than others. I also don't know if I should bother looking for something local, or if it's more normal to just say hell with it, and ship it to wherever does a better job.

Thanks all

-James
 
O1: I have a rather noticable lack of tools, so I very roughly cut it with a hacksaw, and then hog off rest of metal with a 36 grit belt. If you don't have a bigger 4x36 or larger grinder, it's probably better to go with the drill and connect the dots method. Drill around the profile, and then use hacksaw to connect the dots.

Now, as a woodworker, if you have a bandsaw that you can slow down to metal cutting speeds, you're in a better postition than me. Slow it down to good metal cutting speeds(someone else can probalby tell ya how slow ya need) and put a good 14-18tooth bi metal blade on there, Starett seems to be favorite of makers here. Then cut awya.

D2 should be aboue the same.

Not sure who around here does heat treating on oil quench steels. Rlinger I konw is supposed to do great work on stainless, would have to ask him if he does carbon steels too.
 
Oh yeah, and not a stupid question at all. One of those very basic parts of knife making, but we all have our ownlittle ways of doing it and since most any way will work, it's not something that comes up for discussion a lot. Main discussions on this topic, if at all, are what belts to use for hogging out a profile, or which blades to use in a bandsaw.
 
James:

Hi and welcome.

If you have a 4"x36" grinder that will do for a start. That's what I currently use along with countless files and a hacksaw. I use a High Speed Steel blade on my hacksaw and it went through the D2 easily.

If you are grinding D2 use a can of water to keep it cool as you grind otherwise it will get hot. When D2 gets hot it also gets hard. Not a problem for heat treat but it will start you cursing like a sailor.

Heat treat services... Roger Linger. I just did a D2 blade for my friend overseas and Mr. Linger heat treated and cryo'ed the blade. Fast turnaround, lots of experience and service just for us guys.

If you have any more question please ask!
 
James: SS, D2, A2 and etc. Roger is the man. If you got any O1, 10series and etc. come on down to my shop and I'll show you how to do it. On Saturdays I usually have at least 2 guys over here. Today was damascus making. I live down here in New Bedford, MA. We (NECKA) also have Hammer-ins a couple times a year. Feel free to call me. My email is messed up so don't try that.
 
I too, have very limited resources in my knife shop. I have a air operated, and also an electric die grinder, cut off wheel. I works great for me. I let the steel cool periodically to keep it from getting to hot. This may, or may not be the right way to do it, but it seems to be working for me.
 
My Moniker is an homage to the old Lothar of the Hill People skits. To be honest, I can't rememebr most of them it' sbeen so long, but I remember thinking they were d?mn funny.

...wow. I have to say, I'm very gratefully surprised by the turnout already... you guys are awesome.

Sounds like I may have to go with connecting the dots on this project. I'm limited to power drills, a dremel tool, and a 6" variable speed Delta grinder. Thanks, by the way, for the tip on not letting D2 get hot. Thankfully, the grinder goes down to 2000 RPM, which is why I use it for bench chisels. Hopefully it'll keep the steel happy. It's 3/16" stock, so grinding that forever would just be a PITA.

Thanks very much for the comments so far, adn if there's anything else anyone has to add, or edit, or suggest, I'm all ears.

And George, you may just be hearing from me soon. :)
 
If the D2 is annealled nicely and is easy to cut and drill then try draw filing. That works quickly. Not as quick as a grinder but doesn't get hot at all.
 
James this is my phone# 508 999 7090. Like I said on Saturdays I have Knikemakers and beginners in and out of my shop all day.
 
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