Mayo: Nip and Tuck

DaveH

DaveH

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
Messages
12,249
STR did some mods for me on a Buck/Mayo 172. I'm hinking on having it done on the real thing.

nt_2.jpg


You can see the lock access has been enlarged, it would be even easier on the real mayo, no holes to get in the way.

nt_1.jpg


You can see in this pick he "dehorned" it for me. Big improvement IMO, much more confortable on the thumb.

I suppose this would wreck any kind of resale value if I did it, huh?
 
I wouldn't think it would hurt the resale value as long as the person buying it likes the mods. Larry
 
Killed on the resale ..plus Mayo's are pretty near the top as is
 
Tom's Custom with that mod: A knife only a user could love. You'll kill the resale once by allowing someone other than Tom to modify it, and twice, if he does as poor a job as that. I hate to post a disparaging remark, but that arc is not round and it would be a dealbreaker for me on a custom at half the cost. It's fine on a Buck beater EDC.

Send it to Tom and get the best of both worlds.

Coop
 
I'll check with Tom.

The arc is probably the result of ATR following my magic marker line on the Ti, plus if it was perfectly circular as one might expect, you'll run into the pre drilled holes, which would be worse. It may not look the best, but the finger doesn't care much.
 
well.......I have modded a number of the buck tnts......

and you dont need to make it NEARLY that large to have it work well. Buck make it a little smaller than I like, but the custom on the top is a big as it really needs to be to work well.

The cutout is to get your thumb into the TOP of the hole, thats where you push from!!!

Trust me, I have done this more than once!!! :p :D :p
 
I also have a Buck-Mayo I dehorned, added more holes and opened up the thumb hole a bit(more oval than round) and like Tom says, you push the top of the hole to open. Works real fine!
 
It's not the opening that was the issue, for me it was the convienance of making it easier to unlock.
 
I've got a Buck-Mayo and I've never had a problem with opening it. I know one thing, it was the sharpest factory knife straight out of the box that I've ever seen.
 
I also have one of these knives. I have never had trouble opening it. Mine is so smooooooooth!! I bought one of these, until I CAN get a custom Mayo!!
 
you don't need to unlock from the cut=out area actually, but more from the side....(don't know if you know what I mean). This is especially for thinner framelocks...
 
I think I do know what you mean.

Instead of "pushing through" the lock cut out area, you snag the lock bar on it's edge and pull it over.

Personally I like pushing through, rather then snag-n-drag, hence the mod.

I usually close by flipping the knife over, putting my thumb on the pivot and using my index finger to push the lock off.
 
Once I got over the need to try to 'one-hand' every liner or frame lock, I found a lot less frustration and got more appreciation. The primary goal of a lock is to make it secure, not necessarily being super-convenient.

Coop
 
DaveH said:
I think I do know what you mean.

Instead of "pushing through" the lock cut out area, you snag the lock bar on it's edge and pull it over.

Personally I like pushing through, rather then snag-n-drag, hence the mod.

I usually close by flipping the knife over, putting my thumb on the pivot and using my index finger to push the lock off.
Click to expand...


Exactly! Hence you notice that most makers file the grooves at the locking area at an angle and not flat. I gotta say that for TNTs, a larger cut out may be good....but not inwards, rather outwards....just like a regular sebenza. YMMV though :p
 
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