Mcnett blakely - dive knife review

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Dec 1, 2013
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Based on this prior thread (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1462585-Dive-knife-recommendation), I acquired a McNett Blakely dive/rescue knife for scuba/snorkeling. I didn't find very much out there on the internets regarding this knife, so I'd thought I'd write an amateurish review so that it might help the next guy.

The knife is serrated on one side only. It's about 6-7/8" oal, blade is 3", cutting serration length is 2-1/4". The height of the blade is roughly 1" and it is hollow ground 3/4 of the way up. The tip is unsharpened, blunted and rounded off. The last 1/8" of blade close to the tip is unsharpened also. There is a significant sized choil. It is made of 420J2 steel and comes with a kydex sheath and clip. The handle can be disassembled for cleaning.

This knife went on 6 saltwater trips with me over the course of 2 weeks. It got a coat of silicone before my trip, but only got washed off with fresh water at the end of the day, sometimes 4-5 hours after the excursion. The handle only got disassembled now that I'm back home. I also took along a victorinox compact, victorinox OHT, and a lansky triangle dog leg rod during this trip.

The blade did rust. First place I saw it was in the lanyard hole, and next on the blade surface next to the 420 J2 etching. I next saw it next to where the blade meets the handle. As you can see by the pics. After taking off the handle, there's a bit more rust on the handle shank. I've already sanded off the rust with 220 grit sandpaper with a little help from brake cleaner. There are already numerous other scratches on the knife surface from use.

The handle of the knife did well, expected scratches from scraping up against rocks etc are seen. The crevices of the handle did like to trap quite a bit of sand. The little plugs tha hold the handle onto the blade for assembly also got beat up rather easily when prying them out of the spots for disassembly.

The kydex sheath fasteners also showed rust, more immediately noticeable to me. The rivets holding together the sheath rusted after the first day. Interestingly the lanyard hole in the sheath as well as the screw/screw hole for the belt clip did not rust.

As for usage, thankfully it was never needed as a rescue knife while in the water. In the around water environment, it did a fine job cutting paracord, webbing, and belts. No complaints at all with the serrations or the cutting ability of the sharpened edge. The unsharpened blunt tip and the unsharpened few mm of blade, is nice to have when you're in the water, as I wasn't worried about accidentally puncturing anything. However, just outside the water, it was a pain. Opening packaging and boxes was a chore, the unsharpened tip punctures through tape, cardboard, paper, and plastic like a house key. You really need to get to the serrations before you can really cut. Food was also an issue as you really can't slice with a blunt end and lack of a belly. So trying to cut an apple could only really occur with a push cut - and with that, the chisel ground end serrations would make the blade deviate away from a straight cut.

The retention of the sheath was excellent, maybe on the side of too hard to unsheath than too easy to loose. I got smacked around by some surface waves a few times and still have the knife. Unfortunately, I lost about $100 of other gear into the pacific, but the trip was quite fun.

Some things I wished for: I wish I could have found this knife with a bright colored handle and sheath so I could see it better while in the water. I wish that the small lanyard hole that is exposed in the butt shank of the blade was bigger - it can't fit in any paracord lanyard to make into a wrist strap. Only thinner, flimsier cord will fit in there.

So overall, I think the knife is well suited for the activities such as cord, rope, belt, webbing cutting in and around the water. It also held up to the random pushing/prying functions, and it'll come with me on future trips. However, I wouldn't consider using this as a primary knife out of the water - after the first day, one of the SAKs I had with me was tucked into my dry bag for my 'land use' purposes.










 
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Good write up. I realize any stainless can rust, and the rusty rivets in the sheath is to be expected, not desired, but expected.

I don't understand why manufacturers make the blade out of stainless and then use common steel rivets in the sheaths and lanyard tubes just to save a few tenths of a cent.

However, I would have expected less rust on the blade after just six dives. Unless you didn't give it a freshwater bath at the end of each day and oil it?

Salt water will do a number on even stainless if left wet with salt water over a few days. I have a couple of McNetts that have dozens of freshwater dives with less rust, but then they have only been used in fresh water and rinsed/oiled after use.
 
Good write up. I realize any stainless can rust, and the rusty rivets in the sheath is to be expected, not desired, but expected.

I don't understand why manufacturers make the blade out of stainless and then use common steel rivets in the sheaths and lanyard tubes just to save a few tenths of a cent.

However, I would have expected less rust on the blade after just six dives. Unless you didn't give it a freshwater bath at the end of each day and oil it?

Salt water will do a number on even stainless if left wet with salt water over a few days. I have a couple of McNetts that have dozens of freshwater dives with less rust, but then they have only been used in fresh water and rinsed/oiled after use.

You can see that most of the rust is on the tang that is covered by the handle. I am not able to separate the handle material from the metal by hand, therefore I could not disassemble the handle during my 2 week trip (Hawaii). Thus, the knife only got tap water baths and rises while the handle was attached during that time. I presume that the handle likely trapped water and debris within it.

After getting home, I needed to clamp the knife in a vise and use a small pry bar to disassemble the handle from the metal, thus showing the pictured extent of the rust.

I guess if i could have disassembled after each day, that would be better.

Nevertheless, the rust has been removed now, replaced by sandpaper scratches - but this is not a beauty contest. I don't really have a good way of removing the rust from the sheath rivets though. I sprayed some pb blaster on it and will let it soak for a while. I'll just need to check the retention on the sheath a few weeks before the next trip in case I need to replace the rivets.
 
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