Mean Green

P. McKinley

P. McKinley

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
2,010
Mean Green:
Blade - 5 3/4" x 1/4"(approx) of clay quenched brute de forge W2.
Handle - Highly sculpted stabilized/dyed Red Maple Burl with African Blackwood bolsters and liners, three carbon fiber pins. The handle butt sports a glass breaker/lanyard loop.
Sheath - 6/7 oz veg tanned leather with a one-piece inlay and brain tanned deer hide lining. The removable dangler belt loop can be inserted into the lower belt loop section allowing the sheath to be affixed to military webbing.

I'd greatly appreciate any comments.
Thank you,

-Peter

















 
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I've said it before and I'll say it again, Mr. McKinley I absolutely love the way your knives and sheathes jive together. Well done!
 
Beautiful. As just a little touch that adds class, I like the little cut-away in the bolster to reveal your touchmark. :)
 
There are many different textures and transitions that could be too much in some cases, but this just works for me. I like it very much, thanks for sharing.
 
I like what you have going on here. The texture is a nice touch. The handle looks comfortable. I really like the guard. I personally would like to see a tapered tang...it would have also made the "glass-breaker" thinner, therefore more effective. Also, assuming this is intended for a fighting knife, IMHO, a recurved/sharpened clip does a better job on the back-cut because of the concentration of force on the tip. Nice knife...keep it up!
 
Thank you folks.

Ben - I am sooooooo close to trying a tapered tang. I entirely agree that would enhance the look as well as aid in balance. This tang was skeletonized with drill bits to achieve the balance I wanted. On this piece however, I really wanted to maintain the forge finish on the glass breaker, and I'm not quite that good with a hammer to forge in a tapered tang and keep the proper symmetry. I draw filed - very carefully - the bolster/handle footprint to get clean, flat, parallel, surfaces on the tang for the slabs, while being careful to not touch the exposed surfaces. Lots'a fun!

This knife is intended for military use, and it represents the first time I've ventured in to the realm of "weapon" by design, rather than my usual "tool" by design. So, thank you for the advice on the clip.

-Peter
 
A good step, too. If you could, I'd recommend training in knife fighting. I think it would change how you design a knife...it did for me anyway. I look forward to seeing what you do in the future.
 
Thanks Droptine.

I had a spare few hours:p so I took some of the scrap handle wood, cut a bunch of small pieces, drilled some holes, then hand-turned a set of pace beads on the drill press. I think this makes for a nice compliment to the knife/sheath and it takes care of most of the waste wood.

I also turned another bead and threaded it onto a moose hide lanyard for the knife. I think the package is now complete.

-Peter





 
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