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Mega Machax WIP...

crimsonfalcon07

crimsonfalcon07

Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
6,852
I'm calling this off-topic because it technically isn't a Becker knife, it's a WIP interpretation of a 20" Machax. Got my steel in this morning, cut out and did initial grinding, and made a handle, which still needs to be finished a bit further. Red liners would go nicely with this guy, methinks. Anyways, this is 20" OAL, 1095 steel, with smallish thumb ramp, 13" cutting edge, 13.5" blade, cocobolo handles. Still needs to be sent out for heat treat, and then a ton of finishing work. But you get the idea. Any ways, as suggested in The Warrior's BK interpretation thread, here's a rendition of a Mega Machax. Assuming it's kosher, I'll put up some more pics in a while after I get around to having it heat treated, finished (may cerakote it, because my finishing skills aren't that great yet), and sharpened.

Here's a picture with an 18" Himalayan Imports Ultimate Fighter and a BK-10 for size comparison:
2012-02-22144414.jpg


Love that cocobolo. This is machine finished to 800 grit so far. Still need to hand sand (will drop back to 600 grit, and work my way to 2500).
2012-02-22144450.jpg


Becker handles are comfortable, even when they're copies:
2012-02-22144505.jpg


That's not a knife...
2012-02-22144604.jpg
 
Gotta say, I wasn't too sure about the Machax prior to making this. Having felt my version in hand, I'm excited to get the real deal. I can already tell this thing is going to be a serious chopping machine. It's not too heavy, since I used 3/16" thick stock. But it's going to have some serious chopping power, I can tell already. Wonder if a passaround would be fun with this, while we wait for the real machaxen to arrive...
 
That's riDICulous! wow.
Not that you asked, but I recommend not hand-sanding past 360 or 600 before heat-treat. Your knife will come back with some sort of finish on it that you'll need to sand off if you want it shiny, and you'll need to start that process at prolly 360 or 600 IF the heat-treat is done in a purged atmosphere. If it's gas forge treated you'll need to start back at 180 or so to sand through the decarb layer on the surface to get back to the hard steel.
Just my experience. YMMV.

-Daizee
 
Thanks for the advice daizee. I actually don't have any idea what setup darrin has. The scale usually buffs off pretty nicely with some black buffing compound, and then it doesn't take quite as much work, but I still suck at finishing, so it's great of you to give me some tips. I think he may clean it up some before he sends it back.

This is the best I've been able to do finish-wise so far.

2012-02-22152932.jpg
 
I just can't stop thinking about Ethan saying he beheaded a deer with a longer machax prototype. :D
 
Nice job, crimsonfalcon07!

thrillbilly said:
this needs to be production! I think the machax design just Begs to be bigger!
Click to expand...

One of the beautiful things about the Machax is its ability to chop well at such a light weight, making it a joy to carry. Made bigger you somewhat negate the light weight advantage. Just my 2 cents worth, though.

Doc
 
Indeed. I'd wager since the handle is the same length on this version that the center of balance and center of percussion are different. This one is 3" up from the handle on COB, and I haven't found the COP yet. I'm thinking about doing a wide fuller to reduce blade weight. It's still surprisingly light and fast, but still not quite where I want it to be.
 
Made a few changes today. Wanted to move the POB back a bit towards the handle, so I did some experimentation with some fullering. Did a thin guide line with my angle grinder (doesn't matter if you get it super straight, since it will get sanded away), then used the rounded end of my 4x36 belt sander to sand in the fullers. Wanted a bit of a dui chirra look. It was hard to get the fuller to match the curve; this is much easier on a straight line. Lots of respect for the folks who do curvy fullers. Still, I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

2012-02-23134105.jpg


Here you can get a good look at the way the fullers look:

2012-02-23134132.jpg


The process gave the swedge a bit of a wavy look, which I think looks pretty nifty.

2012-02-23134203.jpg


And, I got about 1/2" of movement on the POB. It's now about 3" up instead of 3.5-4". It's pretty nimble in hand for a 20" monstrosity. It definitely feels like a good length. I am excited to try the real Machax; it's gotta be such a quick, fast knife.
 
one purpose of a fuller is to stiffen the blade (more surface area). However the asymmetry does make heat-treat a bit riskier.
 
Actually I whacked the deer's head off with a stock 4140 .210 thick Cincinnati era Machax......One blow......after skinning, mind but if memory serves I still had a bunch of momentum left but, I am old and that last bit may be a bit of braggadocio....It surprised the crap out of me..........Big grin time....

Interesting blade and similar to several in my drawing files....I like it.....Should really chop.......

All Best....

Ethan
 
Ethan Becker said:
Actually I whacked the deer's head off with a stock 4140 .210 thick Cincinnati era Machax......One blow......after skinning, mind but if memory serves I still had a bunch of momentum left but, I am old and that last bit may be a bit of braggadocio....It surprised the crap out of me..........Big grin time....

Interesting blade and similar to several in my drawing files....I like it.....Should really chop.......

All Best....

Ethan
Click to expand...

The coolness factor of the machax just went supernova for me. I need to behead a deer this fall. Now I have something to look forward to all year long
 
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