Melting Copper - Anyone Do It?

Joined
Jul 11, 2003
Messages
3,258
Hi folks,

I've been giving lots of thought to the furniture on my knives lately. One of the ideas I've been toying with is the use of copper and perhaps bronze. Has anyone here ever successfully melted copper into ingots for reuse? I was wondering how you did it, what did you use for a heat source, etc.

The reason why I ask is - Have you seen the prices for copper barstock! LOL! Any info would be much obliged, thanks!
 
Talk to phone guys. keep forgetting to ask Mike what actual equipment or whatever he pulled them from, but gave me some big copper ground bars(confirmed 99+% pure, so no worries of beryllium poisoning like other scrounging of copper has the potential for) that he uses for something at work. Think they're about 3ft long each, a little over a 1/4" thick, an inch or so wide. Have threaded holes every few inches, but easy to cut a bunch of guards/bolsters/etc from each bar.
 
Thanks for the lead, ept. I was thinking of using just scrap copper pipe, which I always have tons of. That's fairly pure, right? Hmmm... I wonder if I can forge-weld any...
 
i've tried this...it's not easy as copper tends to pick up a lot of gas and you end up with a very grainy and "holey" consistency...you can melt it down, but when you pour it, don't expect to end up with anything like you see in a commercially produced bar or ingot. you can get a "de-gasser" powder from foundry supply folks that is used for casting brass and it's supposed to help, but i have yet to try it...

i did it in my propane forge and it was tough to get it hot enough...i ended up helping it along with an oxygas torch...

at some point i'm going to try to build a cupola-style foundry for doing this, combined with some "primitive" techniques...when i was looking into this, i found some very general information about a town in mexico that is renowned for its copper work....i guess the way they do it is to dig a pit filled with wood and then the copper "charge" up top...as it burns down, the copper will melt into a hockey-puck shaped mass at the bottom...they pull this out and then hammer it out into bowls, etc.

everyone i asked about copper talked about the gas problem...but i figure if these mexican folk can do such a great job with "primitive" techniques, it must be possible...
 
I got a melting cooper document at home. I'll try to get it, later.

After tossing 20 lbs of cooper in a brush fire, you'll never make me believe, the ancients discovered cooper smelting by accident.


NO WAY DUDE :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Gonna try some aluminum bronze with my foundry buddy.
10-18% AL and the rest cooper. Sposed to be easier to pour.
 
Did a bit more research. Melting point on 99.99% pure copper looks to be around 1981F. Saw temps on a coupla alloys too, looks to go a bit lower, never higher(not always a guarantee when you computer alloys to the pure metal). Noticably higher than transformation on O1, but should be doable with a good forge or heat treat oven(as at least thought most of them can hit 2000F for the stainlesses, though I don't have one or work with stainless yet myself). I've heard of the gassin gthing too, but didn't know how to fix it. Love the way copper looks though, would be interesting to find things on this. Especially if I could use scrap pipe as you say, or even scrap wire. The small guage stuff I have around probably wouldn't be worth messing with, but have stuff up to 8 gauge, and maybe bigger, which would probably be worth time to run utility blade through jacket and melt down the core.

IG might be willing to help towards some of these experiements too if we work out good cheap way of doing some copper work, as I think he likes having copper furniture/accents on his blades even mroe than I do(least I know he's mentioned it several times).

Anyways, there's a bit more info, hope it's of help(guessing if you were doing stranded copper wires, as I mentioned, might want to degrease them somewhor, or other cleaning. At least if you think there's anything in there that won't just burn off). Lots of audio cables are 99% or better pure though, which is at least some of the stuff I have around. Not worth it at cost of the cable, but if you got it free, like most of my extra wire/cable, may be worth it if we can figure out the other things. Will mention this to my dad when I go home next weekend too. He grew up in the good old days, unlike me. Had foundry class while in high school, so knows a lot more about that type of metal work(melting, casting, etc) than I do, though I know a bit more about some aspects of cold work now, and more about heat treating.
 
Well I don't think I'll ever run out of copper. My nephew is a journeyman plumber, and my son is an apprentice electrician. It sure would be nice to learn how to make some copper suitable for knifemaking. Sweany... anything you can dredge up at home on copper-melting would be awesome.

You know... the real reason why I started this post is because someone somewhere some-forum said: "Brass has no class." Pardon me is I neglect who said this, but in a way its true. Ever since I read that, I have really looked at my knives with brass accoutrements and sighed. I need a new metal.

And I am fussy too...

I like the looks of damascus blades. I don't like the looks of damascus with dark furniture. To me, there is no balance. I like the looks of a plain steel blade. Good grinds and fine lines make a good steel blade even better. But then again, if the furniture is a similar color, there is no contrast. There should be some contrast, but a plain steel blade and damascus furninture looks silly. Even more silly are damascus-bladed folders with damascus bolsters. Very unpleasing to my eye.

So how does one acheive that sense of contrast and balance in a knife? I try to stay within the belief that opposites attract, but they can be repellent also. So if I can crank out a few knives with copper guards and pommels then maybe I can move into mokume and other mediums as well.

Gah! Sorry for the rambling! But does anyone sort of feel the way I do about this?
 
Friend of mine, saw the El Cobre Smiths at an ABANA conference. they melt scrap copper in a brush fire. Gotta have a blower. A depression in the dirt forms the ingot. It is then worked Hot into sheet and then vases, bowls etc. Beautiful stuff.

The first pic shows and anvil surrounded by dirt. The dirt is used to support the hot copper as it is worked.

I couldn't find the El Cobre Page but htese guys are from New Mexico. Same techniques.

Silver Sun
 
I have found that as long as I flux the metal being melted I don't have as much trouble with the pitting unless I over heat the metal.Copper melts really nice for me to cast with,it is the nickel silver that I have been running into trouble with.I was thinking of casting white bronze,untill I looked at the mix it has,with aluminum in the mix you have a real difficult time soldering the joints as aluminum wont solder.If you are soldering on your guards then I would shy away from the alum, mixes.

The copper bars you are talking about are found in big electrical breaker boxes found in factories and power plants,spme have a light coating of silver on them also.

I made a forced air burner with 3/4 inch pipe and a reducer at the end to 1/2 inch,this gives me about a 6 inch blue flame,this I have running into a homemade crucible that tips when ready to pour and really works great for copper,brass,silver and does melt the nickel silver but it almost not enough heat,A few more experiments and I will get it figured out.

Rio Grand has all the stuff you need to cast and there teqnical staff can answer most of your questions about casting .
Bruce
 
Copper is not generally a recommended metal to cast in an
unalloyed state. Not by me because I have no direct experience
doing this on a small scale. The reason given is that it picks
up too much oxygen and gets a lot of porosity. A friend who
tried it won't do it any more. Hydrogen is also a problem.
In industrial scrap recovery operations that I am familiar
with, high grade scrap with a high copper content is recovered
in fairly large revebatory furnaces but the product ends up as
alloy ingots. Low grade stuff can be recovered in a coke fired
copula. The results then go to a revebatory furnace for
alloying. Industrial shops can control a proper atmosphere.

At Santa Clara de Cobre in Mexico copper ware is made in an
old traditional way. Haven't been there yet.
My understanding is that they put the copper directly in a
coke or possible charcoal bed with a bellows pumped air blast. I
understand the bed is basically a hole in the ground with an
ingot sized depression in the bottom.
Molten copper ends up in the bottom. The bed is allowed to
cool and a solidified pan shaped ingot is recovered from the
bottom. The ingots are then drawn out into absolutely
beautiful vase and bowl shaped objects.by traditional hand
techniques. I have posted stuff on this before further down
this list.
Jesse


I found this but my other file is missing. Basically you gotta keep the oxy away from the copper. Be it flux or an intense charcoal fire.

Forgeing hot copper is kewl.

Thanks Bruce for your input. You useing Borax for flux?


Here's another option :D

Microwave blommery

----- Original Message ----- From: <> To: <> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 7:46 AM Subject:
Re: [hobbicast] Microwave Melting Update > Ray, > > I don't wish to burst your bubble, but, the
best you can hope for in a 1000 > watt microwave is to melt about 5 lb. of Iron in one hour. > >
Technically speaking, it takes about 0.2 kWh to melt 1 lb. of Iron. That is > with 100% efficiency.
Induction melting is only about 65% efficient, so that > would use about 0.3 kWh to melt 1 lb. of
Iron. We believe that microwave energy > can be substantially more efficient, because we don't
need to heat up the > refractory and we don't need to have cooling water running through a coil. >
> Now, if you really want to melt a lot of Iron at home, let's say 100 lb., you > would need to
have a 20 kilowatt microwave oven, and you would need to run it > for one hour. Anything over
about 2 kW is rare for a home microwave. BUT, > there are lots of industrial units out there with
20 kW or more. > > Now, if I want to melt 2000 lb. of Iron in one hour, I will need to build a >
400 kW microwave. That's getting quite large. We have the notion that we can > build this
furnace quite inexpensively by ganging 400, 1 kW magnetrons into a > series of wave guides that
are mounted tangentially around a cylindrical > "melting zone." A 1 kW magnetron costs less than
$10.00. If we spend $4,000 on > magnetrons and then maybe another $10,000 on the power
supplies and controllers, and > maybe $10,000 on the structure and refractories, we should be able
to have a > furnace that will melt one ton per hour for less than $25,000. This is at > least
one-fifth the cost of an induction melter that will do the same thing. AND, > we will be more
energy efficient. > > Or, maybe it won't quite work that way and we will have blown a few
hundred > thousand dollars to prove that it doesn't work. If we don't try, we will never > know
what is possible. > > More to follow.... > > Tom Cobett > Cleveland, OH > > "In Pyro Veritas" >

----- Original Message ----- From: <> To: <> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 3:12 PM Subject:
[hobbicast] Microwave Melting Update Some of you may know that I make a living by
developing new products and processes for the metal casting and steel making industries. About 6
months ago, we started looking seriously at using microwave energy for melting metals. About
$40,000 later, we have done an immense amount of lab work. We have successfully melted
Aluminum, Bronze, Iron, Steel and even Glass in a simple 1000 watt microwave oven. The key
points in doing this are as follows. 1. You need do have either a special crucible that absorbs
microwaves, or, you will need to have microwave absorbing materials nearby to a microwave
transparent crucible. So far, we have made all of our own crucibles. I can't tell you what we are
using, because we fully intend to offer these crucibles for sale to the public, sometime this year.
What I can tell you is that Silica (fused silica) is microwave transparent. Alumina becomes a
microwave absorber at elevated temperatures. Once you get it hot, it will get very hot, very
quickly in microwave energy. We have developed a mixture of refractories that can be shaped into
a crucible that will reach over 2,000°F. in less than 5 minutes of microwave heating. 2. You will
need to use some fairly fancy refractory insulation to keep from burning up the inside of the
microwave. We use a very low density solid or fibrous material that is about 70% Alumina and
30% Silica. You can either build a box and then put the crucible inside of it, or, you can line the
whole inside of the microwave. Just remember that the radiant heat from a glowing crucible needs
to be contained, or you will quickly burn the inside of the oven. Remove any plastic covers inside
the microwave, or they will melt. 3. You really need to keep close tabs on the temperature of the
metal in order to avoid some serious over heating disasters. Last month, we over heated some
Iron, which then melted through an Alumina crucible (that takes 3700°F), and then we vaporized
the Iron (that takes about 5000°F). Things can get really hot really fast. Be prepared to shut down
the power if you get into runaway heating. Have some really well insulated gloves or tongs to
handle the crucible. 4. Now, here's the neat part. We know that metals behave as microwave
reflectors. They won't heat up in a microwave. BUT, we have learned that all metals will become
microwave absorbers at elevated temperatures. We suspect that the temperature at which this
occurs is about half of the melting point of the metal. We will know what the exact temperatures
are later in January. Once you reach this magical temperature, the metals will absorb the
microwaves and you can melt lickety split! Virtually all of the energy that you put into the oven is
going directly into the metal and causing molecular vibration (heating). DON'T DO ANY OF
THIS KIND OF STUFF IN YOUR WIFE'S MICROWAVE! I have toasted 3 microwaves in the
past 3 months, mainly because they got too hot from runaway heating. I melted through the
bottom of one and the Iron ran out onto the table, along with a fair amount of microwave energy,
which can be quite dangerous. If you are serious about doing this, you need to constantly measure
for microwave leakage from the unit. I expect to make a public announcement about the
availability of these special crucibles and the refractory insulation for holding them, sometime in
the next 3 months. This is no BS. We are quite serious about designing a microwave that will have
the capability of melting at least one ton per hour, by the end of 2004. The eventual goal is to
design and build a system that can melt several hundred tons a day. I will keep all of my
Hobbicast friends posted on our progress. Tom Cobett Cleveland, OH "In Pyro Veritas" [Non-text
portions of this message have been removed] This list is for discussion of metal casting and does
not accept attachments. For off topic discussion and to share photos and stuff: join Sandcrabs by
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with aluminum in the mix you have a real difficult time soldering the joints as aluminum wont solder.If you are soldering on your guards then I would shy away from the alum, mixes.

Although aluminum is hard to solder it can be done successfully with the right product(s). Here is some info on soldering Aluminum (I learned this from a a friend of my Dad who built model trains and planes):
1) Aluminum Solder-It (ALP-21)
flows at 395F far below the melting point of aluminum. It is used to solder many types and gauges of aluminum as well as to solder aluminum to most other metals. It is especially useful for joining dissimilar gauges of aluminum. Use Aluminum Solder-It for aluminum tubing, aluminum antennas, aluminum radiators, air conditioning condensers, refrigeration, aluminum boats, doors, windows, anodized aluminum and aluminum foil. Great for constructing and repairing Remote Controlled Aircraft Parts and cosmetic repair of Homebuilt Aircraft/Parts. Aluminum Paste $6.00 - buy here http://www.solder-it.com/solderpaste.asp

2) New 91% Tin 9% Zinc Solder for Aluminum Solid Wire .031 Diameter Melts at 390° F Requires a flux - Use with No.1260 for Aluminum (see below)
Solder Aluminum to Aluminum and Aluminum to other metals
Packaged & Price (Dealers click) Shipping Weight
1 Oz. Package - - - - - -$3.25 - - - - - - - 1½ Oz.
ORDER FORM http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/page31.htm

3)
Superior No.1260 SOLDERING FLUX
A high activity flux designed for low temperature soldering of Aluminum and Aluminum alloys. Effective on joining Aluminum to most ferrous and non ferrous alloys.
Organic-based, chloride-free.
DESCRIPTION
Superior No. 1260 is a high activity, organic-based, chloride-free, viscous Aluminum soldering flux. Applications in which this flux should be used include: Aluminum-to-Aluminum, Aluminum-to-Copper, Aluminum-to-Brass, and Aluminum-to-plated terminals. This flux also performs well in hot dip coating of Aluminum cable connectors to provide a low-electrical resistance contact surface.
Superior No. 1260 can also be utilized in joining other difficult-to-solder metals like stainless steel, Kovar, or Nickel. The preferred solder for Aluminum is 91Sn/9Zn and other tin/zinc and/or zinc-containing filler alloys. For Stainless steel and other metals many solders can be utilized.
DIRECTIONS
Superior No. 1260 can be used with all conventional soldering techniques, including soldering iron, torch, furnace, and dip soldering. The soldering temperature must be monitored because the flux chars at 315oC/600oF, which will result in loss of fluxing action. Overheating should be avoided.
The residues of Superior No. 1260 are conductive and mildly corrosive, and therefore, require removal. This can be done using alcohol or hot (60oC/140oF) water.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Specific Gravity 1.320 +/-0.05 @ 25°C
Density 11.01 lbs./Gallon @ 25°C
Appearance Clear amber viscous liquid
Flashpoint 180°C/355°F Tag Closed Cup Method
pH 10.80 +/-0.50 @ 25oC
Recommended Soldering Range 177-288°C/350-550°F
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Superior No. 1260 is mildly corrosive to steel and should be stored in sealed glass or plastic containers. Keep away from sparks, open flames, and heat sources. The shelf life of this product is one year if stored at room temperature. Avoid prolonged skin contact and/or breathing vapors. Use with adequate ventilation. Refer to material safety data sheet (MSDS) for additional information.
DISCLAIMER
The information contained herein is based on data considered to be accurate and is intended for use by persons having technical skills, at their own discretion and risk. Since conditions of use are outside of Superior Flux Company's control, we can not assume liability for results obtained or damage incurred due to misuse, nor can we assume customer liability.

Superior Flux & Mfg. Co. 6615 Parkland Blvd., Cleveland, OH 44139 Ph. (440) 349-3000, Fax (440) 349-3003

Distributor: H&N Electronics Home Page Price Information Phone (760) 373-8033 http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/page32.htm

buy here: http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/page30.htm
 
I have made bronze and aluminum bronze in my charcoal/coal forge and those two are easy. I haven't done copper yet because of the problems with Oxygen and porosity, but I'm going to try. The bronze came out a real nice pinkish color- I think I was a bit shy on the tin, and aluminum bronze looks just like brass. Apparently, Al bronze is a very strong, tough metal that can be forged and heat-treated and is used for chisels where a spark would be bad. I want to see how a knife made of it would perform.
Tin is hard to locate but I found some on ebay.
And I've never liked brass fittings either.
 
Wow you guys really pulled through for me again. This info is exactly what I needed! I saw that article on the Cobre coppersmiths.

My questions now are:

Can I melt the copper then forge out the porosity?

Will the use of flux or a degasser eliminate this porosity, or will there still be a certain amount?
 
Yeah, I got tired of brass long ago. If you want an old look on a knife, it's OK, but I think brass tarnish ruins the looks easily on a knife you have put a lot of work into. Brass is way over-used. Hey, what do you fellas think of making canister mokume with copper and the usual metals for mokume? It would solve the atmospheric problems, too. I have thought of filling a canister with various mokume metals, doing the heat, then a couple of shakes to do some random mixing. Air cool, and it's can opener time. Anyone tried this?
 
The porosity would have to be worked out at a welding heat.

Jeff, some other stuff I read on casting copper.

One was an archaelogical report. Dissing the fact that the ancients "could"
cast copper without porosity. Claimed it couldn't be done. That they never did it. All evidence was faked. An opinion based on book knowledge and no practical applications. See the above article on microwave melting.


Another Archy type claimed the same evidence proved they did. They had an exrayed pic of a cast copper piece with one little inclusion. Opinions based on hands on. This guy examined the mold used and the frunace site.

The method they used? Basically the same as the El Cobre smiths. Charcoal fire and a blower, well probably blowpies, or some such.

They mentioned useing fine silica as a flux.

Another snippit of info. Contact copper. The stuff from electrical boxes is sposed to be easier to cast, flows better etc.
 
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