Merits of various hammer designs?

[Alarion]

I've seen a lot of different hammer designs used for forging, and I wonder which one is best for which tasks.
I've seen french pattern hammers

German pattern hammer

Czech pattern hammer

ball-peen

this head shape is also common:

or this, which is basically much like the above, but w/o cross peen

or this (seen used by a farrier)

So, I wondered which hammer design is the best for which purpose.
All these shapes must arise from function, and I'm a bit confused.

 

[A C Richards]

For me it was a matter of what I could find. I started with the standard cross peen seen in your 5th picture. Then a my blacksmith mentor traded me a rounding hammer of his design. I also purchased a few german pattern hammers and these tounded out my users for years. I now have many. My favorites are the Japanese style forging hammer with the offset head. Then my Tai Goo style hammers and Ed Caffery's angle peen. Each have their uses. I will probably add to my collection when I see a neat new design. You have to use a few if possible to see which one fits you best.

 

[Alarion]

I'm now using a french pattern 3 pounder for heavy work, but I'm trying to get a 4 pounder, as it still seems light for some heavy metal movement.
I have a 2 pounder ball peen. which I use for finishing work on small stuff. I find the offset weight helps in hitting the metal square (much like a japanese doghead hammer).
I found that the degree of rounding of the face is very important. The heavy 3 pounder has quite a rounded face, which helps moving metal, but not so rounded one can't use it for flattening.
I've got another french with flatter face for finishing...

I'd like to purchase a cross peen like than in 5th picture... do you think that a rounded face on that would do well for moving metal? The octagonal section should help with a more domed face I believe.

What was so good about german hammers?

 

[sunshadow]

i do most of my work with a 3 1/4 pound straight peen

-Page

 

[Sam Salvati]

If you're over 4 pounds you're not swinging right or you're welding huge billets.

 

[sunshadow]

Bigger hammers give deeper movement, lighter hammers for shallow movement

-Page

 

[Sam Salvati]

I can forge through 1" with a 2 pound hammer and not break a sweat, I see no need for a knifemaker to ever go bigger than 1", then it's time for a powerhammer or striker.

 

[A C Richards]

Using really big hammers can cause problems. I used to use a 6lb and it gave me tennis elbow so bad I could.hardly raise my arm. Had to stop forging for bout 6 months, then it was painful for years. Francis Whitaker a modern master only used a 2.5lb for all has forging. If you really need to move material use power hammer or have a friend strike for you. I know not all of us have access to a power hammer and news to swing larger hammers buy just be careful and don't do it too long. Personally I find a flatter.face works better for bladesmithing. I only use a radioused face for very limited work. I use the peen when I need to draw. I used the German hammers because that was what I has available. I have not used them for years and they are not even.on my hammer stand.

 

[Raymond Richard]

I have yet to find a magic hammer although certain hammers tend to do a certain job better than another one. I think its more what a certain individual feels comfortable using. Hammer control plus experience are the two most important factors when it comes to forging a blade. Once you have these two things almost any hammer will work in a pinch.

 

[Tai Goo]

I agree with Sam that if it gets much over about 4 pounds, it’s going to be a bit of a strain for your average person to swing with one arm. However, I have seen some big guys swing 6 pound hammers without straining. I also agree with Chuck that an assortment of hammers is nice. They all come in useful at times. All told, I have around 20 hammers, different types, from about ½ lb up to a 12 pound sledge. If I was going to have just one hammer though, I’d probably go with a 2-3 pound cross peen with a about a 14 inch handle.

Generally speaking, cross peens and straight peens are used for drawing and spreading. Broad flat faced hammers are used for working out dents from the peen faces, flattening, straightening and driving chisels and punches. Domed faces are used for planishing and a wide variety of other uses depending on the degree of rounding on the faces. However, these are just a few things to give a general idea, and I agree with Ray, that you can almost always improvise technique in a pinch and make do with what you have. In the long run it should feel comfortable. If it feels awkward or causes pain to the body, then you need to re-examine the hammers and techniques more thoroughly.

Generally, (but not always), heavier hammers are for hogging and lighter weight hammers are for final forming, refining and hammer finishing.

The hammer will dictate the techniques used to some degree,… and vice versa. The main idea is to use the hammer as efficiently, with the most control as possible in order to get the job done, and in a manner that causes the least amount of shock, stress and strain to the body.

 

[Alarion]

I thought to go around 4 pound. When flattening spring steel, or forming steel bar, I found I have to swing the 3 pounder with a lot of force, while probably a heavier hammer would have more momentum by itself, allowing for more control.
Hope it will work.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I use a 1Kg Hoffi and a 2Kg Hoffi for 90% of all work. The rest is done using various peens, most of which I have made from other hammers.

 

[nc_cooter]

My primary hammers are a 1.kg Hofi and a 2lb ball peen that has been modified to a rounding hammer face. The Hofi gets most of the work.
Mike